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Ultima 107" motor on a 90 model Bagger

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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 06:46 PM
  #551  
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wmattert
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Bruiser, I have lots of good info for you on the bike. The 95 is similar to mine and it fits no problem with the 127. Anyway, don't forget to get a better clutch as well to put that power to the pavement. Mine was finally ridden. The EZ Pull thingy I put on it for the easier pull of the clutch was the culprit. Yanked it off and all is good. Shifting fine now. This thing is amazing. Anyway, the noise is gone (or a lot less noisy) on the top end now. Wondering if it wasn't getting fluid up to the top quick enough or what. But now it sounds much better. The tranny job is a difficult one if you are not familiar with it Bruiser. I ordered the JIMS tool to make it easier and I don't know if you can do it without it. The socket was better than $100. Was yours a fuel injected previously or carb? I have a brand new Aballs starter that will fit in your application. I also have a brand new Ultima 2.0 that won't fit (found out the hard way). I am getting PO'd at midwest b/c of their backorder on parts though. I ordered some stuff months ago, specifically the breather spacers 12-141. Still waiting...
 
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 12:12 AM
  #552  
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Hi Will, so glad you got her on the pavement - I read your saga. Hopefully my installation will go a little smoother with all the info you and everyone else posted. I have not bought the tran pulley socket yet but found one at georges garage (very helpful) for 83, another on howards hog horns for 60, and some on ebay for 75 or more. then shipping of course. did you change the pulley to a 31t or 30t? I hear it is a great improvement, some people also adjust gear ratio with the rear wheel sprocket or motor sprocket too. Any other tools that you definitely needed? I just got new barnett clutch plates - not that they will last but will probably have to do for now. Funds are definitely tight but whose aren't. Bummer about the starters - I think I read the 2.0 was hitting the frame. I forgot why you didn't use the all *****. I will need a new starter - haven't decided which one yet though. what did you end up with? I think you did use an oil fill spout spacer -the baker one or midwest? the baker one is thinner I think. Mine is a carb - do I need the breather spacers 12-141? our midwest and jireh cycles the same? My tranny is shipped but no update on status of 120 blacks, i didn't ask about 127s after all,with john's and bagger's advice and my research I will probably stick with the 120 - at least for the moment. Did you get an oil cooler? I may go with the the dual cool 3 – at least one guy in az swears by them - good price at demons cycles - a lot of good prices., they are also on ebay. glad it quieted down on top, i think i read that other engine were real noisy at first but they also quieted down - or they just got used to it,. I am sure everything will be difficult - it is a big project - congratulations! hope to join the club.
Thanks for all the help,
bruiser
 
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 06:56 AM
  #553  
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Originally Posted by Bruiser
Hi Will, so glad you got her on the pavement - I read your saga. Hopefully my installation will go a little smoother with all the info you and everyone else posted. I have not bought the tran pulley socket yet but found one at georges garage (very helpful) for 83, another on howards hog horns for 60, and some on ebay for 75 or more. then shipping of course. did you change the pulley to a 31t or 30t? I hear it is a great improvement, some people also adjust gear ratio with the rear wheel sprocket or motor sprocket too. Any other tools that you definitely needed? I just got new barnett clutch plates - not that they will last but will probably have to do for now. Funds are definitely tight but whose aren't. Bummer about the starters - I think I read the 2.0 was hitting the frame. I forgot why you didn't use the all *****. I will need a new starter - haven't decided which one yet though. what did you end up with? I think you did use an oil fill spout spacer -the baker one or midwest? the baker one is thinner I think. Mine is a carb - do I need the breather spacers 12-141? our midwest and jireh cycles the same? My tranny is shipped but no update on status of 120 blacks, i didn't ask about 127s after all,with john's and bagger's advice and my research I will probably stick with the 120 - at least for the moment. Did you get an oil cooler? I may go with the the dual cool 3 – at least one guy in az swears by them - good price at demons cycles - a lot of good prices., they are also on ebay. glad it quieted down on top, i think i read that other engine were real noisy at first but they also quieted down - or they just got used to it,. I am sure everything will be difficult - it is a big project - congratulations! hope to join the club.
Thanks for all the help,
bruiser
Bruiser-

I didn't change any of the teeth or rear pulley. I can't think of any other tools. I assume you purchased all new gaskets for your tranny as well? And the primary? The 12-141 breather spacers are for mounting the Ultima breather. I am getting so PO'd at the delay that I may just go with something else. right now I just have on the standard round air filter assembly. The reason I didn't use the All ***** starter is that I ordered 2 different types so I could get one here that fit. The other arrived first, so I used that one. It is a Nippsen Denso (sp). For the oil spout spacer you will need it if not using the stock starter (which I am unsure about working), you will need the spacer(s). I used the baker spacers, it took 2 of them and a baker oil spout. I have an extra spout if you are interested, brand new in packaging. I did put an oil cooler on, a bikerz choice. Was 200. Still not sold on it, but we will see. Good Luck!
 
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 11:11 AM
  #554  
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Bruiser
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Hi Will, I have not ordered any gaskets yet but I will. Not sure what tranny set or primary to get yet. Is the baker oil spout you bought the threaded type? is the reason why need 2 spacers for the starter or the six speed? Doesn't the engine come with the breather spacers? I haven't bought anything yet beside the transmission and an aftermarket manual on cd. I would like to have the hd service manual on cd or pdf but can not find one. I am interested in an extra stuff you want to sell ( you can pm prices if u want) but i definately want to make sure that the engine is on its way before I buy anything.
thanks,
bruiser
 
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 04:20 AM
  #555  
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For the gearing when I put in the DD6 Baker it came with a 28T front primary sprocket and longer chain. before that I tried a 34T front belt sprocket which seemed about right my rear belt sprocket is a 65T this is on a Softail. either of these changes will work and end up to be about the same final gear ratio. With an overdrive 6 speed you don't have to change your final ratios. I am running the 127" motor.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 10:19 AM
  #556  
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thanks beast, i will look into this
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 10:04 AM
  #557  
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I bought an S&S 5 speed case and put the 6 speed DD6 baker tranny in it. The only issue was the main gear hit the case on the inside so I had to grind the case a bit this is on a softail. In case you don't have a manual I will cover the steps to replace the gear cassette for you as it seems you haven't done this before. First of course remove primary cover then motor sprocket nut before taking the pressure plate off the clutch this way you can just lock the rear wheel with the clutch engaged and tranny in gear. Then you can remove the pressure plate and if it's a stock clutch you will need a spring compressor for the clutch spring. Once the pressure plate is off you can remove the clutch hub nut 1 1/8" socket REVERSE THREAD. Next would be to remove the primary adjuster then the clutch, front sprocket and chain all come off together. Remove Starter then the inner primary Since you still have the rear wheel locked up remove the sprocket nut and sprocket. Now around to the right side of the bike, Remove the top cover and the shifter pull off the side cover (hopefully you already drained the oil) then the cassette will come out there are a couple of dowel pins in the cover that can be tight. Now comes the fun part, removing main gear I prefer to press this out rather than hammering it as you can damage the lip in the case that holds the bearing. I use a long ready rod going through to the other side of the case with strong back. I put the sprocket nut back on the main gear shaft to protect it and then tighten it all up pressing the gear out of the bearing. I would replace the main gear bearing with a new one I think it's a 6209. Take care when pressing the new bearing into the case that it doesn't come up against the case lip too hard as I have seen these break or crack then break later going though the transmission. Also take care when pulling the main drive gear back into the bearing as there are needle roller bearings on the inside and a Quad seal that is easily damaged. This is for a Soft tail tranny yours might be different. Hope some of this helped.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 12:21 PM
  #558  
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thanks beast, that helps!
 
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Old May 2, 2009 | 08:41 AM
  #559  
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IronButt62
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PAJOE,

A couple of pages back you mentioned your gas mileage wasn't so good. Can you give us an idea of what you are getting. I have the 113 w/6 speed pushing a Heritage with a tombstone windshield and chrome deflectors running down the forks.

Best I have seen is low 30's during the first 500 miles break in.

Since then I am getting high 20's in mixed riding. Haven't taken it out on the highway for a sustained run. Runs incredibly well but I was hoping to get more than 100miles out of a tank. Plugs are a little sooted up, but not bad.

Talked with Fox about jets and went leaner on the needle, main, pilot and accelerator but now it runs poorly. Haven't checked mileage yet.

Anyone else seeing poor MPG?

Thanks,
Deet
 
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Old May 2, 2009 | 08:58 AM
  #560  
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miacycles
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I have a 120 in a '95 flhtc and get 40 MPG riding normally, 30 MPG when I get a little crazy with it. Set your accelerator at .080", put the needle, main jet, and pilot back where they were and make one change at a time. Adjust the idle air mixture first, after it has warmed up. Many times poor mileage comes from having the idle air mixture set wrong. Go on line and down load the mikuni tuning guide. Then follow it step by step and you should be happy with the results. Hope this helps.
 
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