EVO All Evo Model Discussion

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Old Mar 30, 2025 | 08:32 AM
  #51  
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Replace the plastic breather gear with S&S steel?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2025 | 10:39 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by rockjock729
Replace the plastic breather gear with S&S steel?
I would.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2025 | 02:34 PM
  #53  
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With the EV27 cam, I decided to purchase the S&S standard breather gear kit and Ultima pinion conversion kit to eliminate any concerns regarding gear lash/tightness (if that is correct). How do you measure lash? Is there anything I should be concerned about. I am pulling the pinion gears/oil gears off to remove the oil pump to do a rebuild on it. Any suggestions?

Also I cleaned the carbon off the pistons using a wire toothbrush after I put them through the ultrasonic cleaner. This is the first time I am using a micrometer(digital) so I hope I am doing it correctly. I measured the top and bottom of both the fron and rear piston and cylinder

front. cylinder piston difference
top 3.483 3.476 0.007
bottom 3.4905 3.495 -0.0045

rear cylinder piston difference
top 3.486 3.4765 0.0095
bottom 3.494 3.4945 -0.0005

Top of cylinder
Top of cylinder




After the sonic cleaner, II used wire brush to remove the remaining carbon on top. I still need to clean a bit more on top but I wondered whether this was a bad idea. I did not use the brush on the side. I was questioning on whether to use .0000 steel wool to clean the sides.





 
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Old Mar 31, 2025 | 11:12 AM
  #54  
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Years ago I worked for a Large Aerospace Company in the Inspection Department. Although we had to have our Micrometers and Calipers certified annually (or if we dropped them), we only used Micrometers for critical measurements, Calipers were not considered accurate enough for critical measurements. Might want to have a machinist measure the pistons and cylinders for you. Also I would not use a wire brush on the sides of the pistons, I prefer to use a Soda Blaster to clean the pistons without damaging the part. Having a qualified shop Vapor Blast the parts is another option, although it is not cheap.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2025 | 02:51 PM
  #55  
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Default How do I pull out/ replace this?

Took the jugs to a machinist (Red) in Boynton. He said they could be honed ONCE but suggested New set of jugs, pistons. So I now have a new set of jugs and pistons. Finished cleaning the bottom case in prep for install the cam, oil pump, etc.. The rubber connection for the rectifier into the case needs to be replaced. How do I pull out/ replace it?





I see the allen nut comes out. I do not want to split the case. How do I remove this to access the interior?
 

Last edited by rockjock729; Apr 8, 2025 at 03:01 PM. Reason: correction
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Old Apr 8, 2025 | 03:10 PM
  #56  
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Yes there is a tiny set screw holding the isolator in the case. If you pull the rotor it will reveal the stator. The only way to pull the isolator is to remove the stator. Very simple now that you have the primary totally off. Post pics of your stator. A poor connection on the outside as you showed could cause more current to be generated and over heat the windings. You could try and clean it all up with carb or break clean and apply black RTV to help seal it but at this point with everything apart I would just get a new stator. $150 now could save you a lot in the long run.

Cycle Electric is the best..

What do the magnets look like in the Rotor?
The easiest way to pull the rotor is by tapping the 2 holes and using 2, 3" bolts to pull it off..

EDITED: be careful not to tap too deep and damage the windings on the stator...

Man, just noticed grade 8 bolts in the case.. What you got an Armored Tank??? lol..
 

Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Apr 8, 2025 at 03:59 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2025 | 03:20 PM
  #57  
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For your wiring, for the last bike I built (and the present one I am building which is on a '99 HD FXST frame), I used a Thunder Heart Performance micro harness controller. There are two versions. One for bikes with a center brake light and one for bikes without a center brake light. They are very easy to install if you can read simple schematics and their customer service is top notch. This is the link to the one with a center brake lights:

https://www.thunder-heart.com/shopexd.asp?id=287

I am a huge fan of them and there was no way I was or am going to mess with a stock harness for a ground up build or to replace an OEM harness.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2025 | 03:45 PM
  #58  
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Have not wiped anything
Have not wiped anything
same
same
When I touched the magnet(s).  I would expect it to be dry inside.
When I touched the magnet(s). I would expect it to be dry inside.
 

Last edited by rockjock729; Apr 8, 2025 at 03:51 PM. Reason: correction
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Old Apr 8, 2025 | 04:50 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by rockjock729
Have not wiped anything
Have not wiped anything
same
same
When I touched the magnet(s).  I would expect it to be dry inside.
When I touched the magnet(s). I would expect it to be dry inside.
It looks like your crank seal is leaking, so I would definitely change that.
 

Last edited by Spanners39; Apr 8, 2025 at 04:52 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2025 | 05:09 PM
  #60  
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Agree with @Spanners39 on the sprocket shaft seal, You might even need a new spacer so you're going to need to check that for a wear ring..
As for the rotor it's hard to tell from your pictures but by what I can see the splines look like they're getting pretty worn. How loose is the fit of the rotor on the sprocket shaft? I have seen them strip out and I don't like the color of the windings.. I imagine stators pretty old.. You can also see on the winding stanchion @ the 1 o'clock position of the stator where it looks like the rotor was not spaced properly out and it's very possible It rubbed against the winding flattening a little bit.. Your call but I would probably replace them as a set..
 
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