EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Ultima engines your results

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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 10:32 AM
  #141  
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frontiercat
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My 113" Ultima has been a pretty good engine. Had to adjust the valves, but that's pretty much it. Not complaining at all. And, yeah, it is plenty powerful in my 400 lb. rigid.
 
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Last edited by frontiercat; Apr 9, 2010 at 10:35 AM.
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 08:30 PM
  #142  
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I have an Ultima 113 i put in my 2002 Amen GT 250. I do not have an odometer and I think I have around 2000 miles on it. I dont ride much because of work, family etc. I live in the midwest and the bike sits in my cold *** garage all winter. I have a serious issue with the oil! When I start the bike and warm up it starts to puke oil through the breather at the top of the motor!
I took it to a mechanic two years ago who charged me a butt load of money and said he found pieces of my rubber oil line blocking the pump (i found it hard to believe) but it was fixed. He replaced all the oil lines. The following spring..same issue, puking oil from the breather. Needless to say i did not take it back to the mechanic. I found somewhere on the web that the oil pump has a ball bearing located at the top of the pump that sticks. I found it, tried to pick at it with a pic type tool. Started the bike and had another different issue. Parked the bike in frustration and didnt ride it at all last year. I tackled the bike this year and fixed all the problems....so I thought. Started the bike up, got warm and started to puke oil out the breather. Im ready to set this thing on fire!!!! Any help in any direction would be greatly appreciated. I am a weekend shadetree mechanic when the wind is blowing my way at best. So I need plain english. Thanks, Scotty.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 09:41 AM
  #143  
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miacycles
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From: Bluffton, South Carolina
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Your engine is probably "wet sumping" and has been a fairly common problem with the EVO style pump, picking at it with a metal tool may have compounded the problem as the aluminum seat is very soft. This is caused by the oil tank being higher than the oil pump/crankcase. What happens is the check valve in your pump (the little ball and spring) are not sealing tight causing oil to seep by and get forced by the breather when you first start it up. There are a few ways to try and cure this, First either drain the oil or pinch off the supply oil line. Then remove the spring and ball, flush out the area and visually inspect the seat. There shold not be any debris or marks in the seat. Next take an old push rod ( you can probably get one from your local shop and cut it off at a length that will allow you to insert it in that hole and turn it by hand or with a small angle drill. Then pur a little valve grinding compound on the ball end and rotate it on the seat until you get a nice concentric seat down there. Then flush out everything and swab it out until it is spotless. Install a new ball and spring (there way have been a problem with the old ones) and that should fix your problem. Additionally you can cut the vent line ( make sure you do the right one) going from the tank to the motor, put a "tee" in it and run a line up under the seah and install a 3/8" single ended breather on it. That will help the engine breath and may help mitigate the problem. Nope this helps, please keep us informed
 
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 02:14 PM
  #144  
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mesmarter
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I have an Ultima 107. I took it on a 3000 mile 7 day tour through arizona averaging better than 85 mph for that trip. I wore the engine in good. Took it to my local harley shop, had the 3000 mile check up on it. It has a small leak, coming from the stator, it was fixed by warranty, at this time.

I returned yesterday from another 2000 mile 4 day tour through Canada and the States, avg speed over 80 mph. We drive at these speeds for anywhere from 6 to 13 hours in a day, with regular stops for fuel, refreshments... etc.

The engine ran very strong... no issues and no leaks. It is very fast... and runs very smooth. I am extremely happy with this engine, and everyone is extremely impressed with the power off the line, and the performance.... and it still gets roughly the same gas mileage as the old evolution... and I can pass people going up hill, without shifting down.

I put true duals on it before my last trip, and it sounds aaaaaaaawwwwwwwsssssssssssoooome.

Anyone who needs an engine... the 107 is a great touring engine, with plenty of power.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 09:36 AM
  #145  
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We're into another riding season and more miles put on our rides, some of the guys that told us about their Ultima motors last year need to keep us up to date. I put in a .670 lift cam with S&S lifters along with the 51mm CV carb and 2" RB racing pipe it sure woke it up even though it was strong before.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 11:26 AM
  #146  
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ozzman
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my 127 is still pulling the front wheel in second, while it smokes the tire. i have about 4000 miles on in now,in my 96 Dyna.
it Dyno tested at 125 Hp 137 T.......stock, with Cycle Shack dual drags.
I am interested in getting more out of it now that it is broken in. I was wondering what modifications would be best.
Do you feel the CV carb, the cams, and pipe were a good joice? i know the RB pipe is good stuff. is that a pipe with NO bafles?
 
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 12:38 PM
  #147  
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The 48mm mikuni carb will help unless you already have that as mine came with the 45mm. They also make a manifold for the S&S D carb. I put on the 51mm SE carb but had to machine a manifold to make it fit I have seen a report that the D carb will make more power, I wanted a CV carb for part throttle drivability. Doing up the heads, Kendall Johnson has done some work on getting more power out of the 127 with head work etc. The S&S 640 cam I put in made a difference with the 1:1.69 rockers on the Ultima gives it a .670 lift, I run the RB Black hole pipe but the RB spider would give more power. One of the guys on this forum is running a .713 cam with the heads done. You can also get higher compression pistons from Mid west but only in .005 over.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 09:41 PM
  #148  
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BIGRED1
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From: Florida Space Coast
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I now have just over 6000 miles on the 113, and have just encountered the first problem. About 300 miles ago, while crusing at 65 mph, the motor just shut off and came back on just as fast, now when starting the engine, it wants to run on 1 cyl., by increasing the RPMs both cyls kick in. It also seems a little harder to start. After the motor warms up, it idles fine and seems to make good power. Compression test showed 175 psi with a dry/cold test. Changed plugs and wires cause it was easy and I had them. I'm gonna pull tank tomorrow and OHM the coil. Any more ideas?
 

Last edited by BIGRED1; Jun 29, 2010 at 09:52 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 11:08 PM
  #149  
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There have been some problems with the ignition modules get the programable one from ultima/midwest/jireh as it works better and is a good price
 
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 07:28 AM
  #150  
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A friend has a 120" a few troubles at first once repaired been a great motor since.
 
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