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Head bolt stud pulling out of case, need advice

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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 05:48 PM
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Default Head bolt stud pulling out of case, need advice

Need some help guys. Went to torque down the head and three of the head bolts torque down to spec. The fourth one will not. The stud is pulling up from the case. Can someone please walk me through replacing a head bolt stud??? I've never done it. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 95 Ultra
Need some help guys. Went to torque down the head and three of the head bolts torque down to spec. The fourth one will not. The stud is pulling up from the case. Can someone please walk me through replacing a head bolt stud??? I've never done it. Thanks in advance.
The head bolt stud itself is not likely to be the problem...either the threads in the case are stripped which will require a "time-sert" installed for repair, or the case is cracked which is common on certain year evos ...will require you to disassemble the motor to see what the problem is...yeah I know...it sucks.

 

Last edited by Tom84FXST; Nov 1, 2012 at 06:00 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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I lifted the front jug up a couple of inches and you can see that the right rear stud is definitely pulling out of the case. Case doesn't appear to be cracked. One other question, how do I remove the stud in question?? Does it just unscrew from the case. I tried turning it but can't.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 08:40 PM
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You can put a "double nut" on it, and then use the lower nut to wrench it out. In fact, the manual tells you to NOT put the studs in this way. It tells you to use an air ratchet, because any kind of twist or bending of the rod will weaken it.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 07:17 AM
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notice the same thing on my bike a couple months after i bought it, thats why the base gasket was leaking on mine. simply, heli-coil, heli-coil is way stronger than the threads in the case, anyway that was 10,000 miles ago and no problems, just be careful not to get metal chips in the case when drilling and tapping. also i found the easy way to put the piston back in the cylinder was to first put the piston in the cylinder then slide the cylinder down the studs, line up the rod with the hole in the piston and slide the pin in. the cylinder will stay where you slide it down because of the head bolts, it isnt going to fall. anyway thats how i did it.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 04:09 PM
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Thanks for the info everyone. Here's where I'm at right now. I just now got the stud out of the damaged hole. The threads in the hole are stripped, but the case is not cracked. I'm going to order the timesert kit tonight. I have one other question, since I am drilling into a through hole with no bottom, how do I prevent the chips from going down into the crankcase???? As soon as I have an answer to that, I'm ready to fix the bike. Thanks.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 05:10 PM
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you might try a little grease at the bottom of the hole. for me, well i didnt know the hole didnt go through, sued my shop vac with a 3/8th hose taped to the end and flushed with some gas. might even try a small rag, as i remember the hole is right above one of the flywheels so you should be able to push it in until it stops, but id also have a shop vac on hand and running while you drill, plus coat the bit with grease and the tap too.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 95 Ultra
I have one other question, since I am drilling into a through hole with no bottom, how do I prevent the chips from going down into the crankcase????
Unless you split the cases ...it is likely that a few will get in the crankcase...all you can do is prevent as many as possible...a piece of paper coated with grease, put under the hole works well at catching and holding pieces. Also coat your drill bit and tap with grease(a lot) and stop often to clean them.
 

Last edited by Tom84FXST; Nov 2, 2012 at 05:18 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 05:57 AM
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I was also considering putting a tiny amount of permatex in the very bottom on the hole, letting it hardened up, vacuum the hole out when I'm done, and just leaving the permatex in there. I'm assuming that this threaded hole is just for the cylinder stud and not an oil flow hole of some sort that I would be blocking.
 
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