Clutch Cable Question
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Indiana
Clutch Cable Question
Since I have to put a spacer between the end of the cable and the clutch lever to get the cable to adjust properly, it means the cable I have is too long, correct?
Does anyone know the correct length for the cable for Bertha?
Does anyone know the correct length for the cable for Bertha?
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 354
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From: Indianapolis, IN
I know when I replaced my cable the firs one was too short. When I went back to the dealer to verify had the correct one an old grizzly parts guy remembered that the 95 and 96 models had a couple different options and found me the proper one.
Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
Have you adjusted it properly at the clutch centre with the cable fully shortened and then adjusted it at the cable? Lots of people forget to adjust at the clutch with cable slack first.....
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Indiana
Well, I took the cable off and took it to the dealer who recommended the guy doing my engine work.
He suggested that the bearing on the oil slinger may be shot, along with the spacers. BING FRIGGIN O!
Replaced the parts for 30 beans.
I reassembled it, adjusted it, and it's fine now.
He suggested that the bearing on the oil slinger may be shot, along with the spacers. BING FRIGGIN O!
Replaced the parts for 30 beans.
I reassembled it, adjusted it, and it's fine now.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,687
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From: SoCal & West TN
When I had my '89 Ultra, I found the center clutch cable stretched after some use. The adjustment was near the end of threads and I was not comfortable with the adjuster on the end of the threads. The cable appeared to be just too long for the housing. It was the correct part number. The only way that Harley said to fix it was to replace the cable with a new one. I bought a new cable assembly. But after less than a year, it did the same thing.
I didn't want to spend more money so I cut the cable (the first one) and inspected the cable inside the housing. It appeared good without any broken strands. So I took off the end of the cable housing that mounted on the transmission adjustment. I used a hack saw and cut a slot in it. I slipped it on the end of the new cable. It made the cable housing just the correct length and lasted many years.
I didn't want to spend more money so I cut the cable (the first one) and inspected the cable inside the housing. It appeared good without any broken strands. So I took off the end of the cable housing that mounted on the transmission adjustment. I used a hack saw and cut a slot in it. I slipped it on the end of the new cable. It made the cable housing just the correct length and lasted many years.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Indiana
D***it! Cable adjusted fine, but when I pull it, the bikes wheel won't turn by hand. What the heck?
Remember, I let her idle too long and she puked her tranny oil.
Seems like something is stuck, but the clutch moves in and out when I pull the lever.
Remember, I let her idle too long and she puked her tranny oil.
Seems like something is stuck, but the clutch moves in and out when I pull the lever.
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: SE Louisiana
It might be hard to make the plates fully release by hand with cold oil, same reason that first shift into first gear gives more clunk and you feel the bike try to move,
and with the engine apart, no compression to hold engine from turning when you try to turn the wheel and release the clutch, I think your OK.
and with the engine apart, no compression to hold engine from turning when you try to turn the wheel and release the clutch, I think your OK.
Last edited by Schex; Jan 8, 2013 at 07:54 AM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Indiana
Okay, I'm going to wait until I have the motor back together and running and see if that's the problem. Thanks.
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