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Bearings and axle gaulling

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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 11:17 AM
  #1  
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Default Bearings and axle gaulling

Took apart the rear wheel and found each bearing showing signs of extreme temps or blue and brown stress marks. The axle had similar marks at the corresponding area on it. I am changing bearings but wanted to know if I needed to change the axle?

There are some small marks on the axle showing wear but the caliper indicates less than 1/1000th of and inch in difference.

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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 12:37 PM
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I would just run the old axle, but they don't cost much. Use only HD axle grease
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 04:03 PM
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In my opinion only ., i would replace anything that has been overheated including bearings, races , axel etc. Also check for heat distortion and proper fit of the new races
in the wheel as the same heat that blued the bearings etc. would effect the races and there seats.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
I would just run the old axle, but they don't cost much. Use only HD axle grease
That HD grease has always been my go to stuff...

The service manual says to use anti-seize on the axle, but I have always used grease. Don`t like the idea of even the remotest possibility of anti seize getting into the bearing.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 10:02 PM
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First I would want to know WHY the bearings over heated?? Was the axle nut to tight? Wrong spacers? Wrong/no grease? Poor installation?

I always use anti-seize on the axle, spacers, and retention nut. Never had a problem. Do not over torque the nut, make sure the spacers are the correct one's in the correct position on the correct side. Some have a taper on one end, this goes towards the bearing. Don't forget about the spacer inside the hub, make sure it is the correct length also.

Remember the wheel rides on the bearings not the axle or spacers.

If any metal part is dis-colored due to heat I would replace it, the price of the part is far less then the price of the failure of said part. There are only two wheels, both are required.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 10:30 PM
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kabear isright on the money here , first find out why then replace all , I've always used the anti seize as well for many years with no trouble , get out your parts manual & make sure all the spacers are in the right spots
 
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 04:40 AM
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What type bearing,sealed or tapered roller?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 10:02 AM
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Default Problem identified and needle jet question

The problem resulted from the failure to follow the procedure outlined in the manual for rear wheel alignment and drive belt tension. My friend whom is now designated as the cause of most of my bike's problems failed to unfasten the upper motor mount bolt which attaches the motor mount to the top of the heads when he adjusted the drive belt tension because I could not get it just right. The motor was strangled into a very odd position and this is when the strange vibration started. I have now the answer. The race of the bearings did not blue or discolor but since I am changing the rollers I will change the race. I also noticed that the spacer on the left had variations of over 10 one-thousandths so I am replacing it as well as the axle just to insure that the problem goes away.

Re-jetted the carb to 185 and 48 for the new cam and was curious as to what the needle jet sitting at the rear of the carb under the choke plate just before the manifold screw setting was from the factory. I had five full from it's dead end and wanted to know if this jet is not set appropriately what will the bike exhibit as the consequence of the improper setting?

I cleaned every orifice of the carb with cleaner and cotton swabs. Hopefully this will give her a little boost.

Pinetop
 
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 07:07 PM
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Default anti seize.

Originally Posted by Pinetop
The problem resulted from the failure to follow the procedure outlined in the manual for rear wheel alignment and drive belt tension. My friend whom is now designated as the cause of most of my bike's problems failed to unfasten the upper motor mount bolt which attaches the motor mount to the top of the heads when he adjusted the drive belt tension because I could not get it just right. The motor was strangled into a very odd position and this is when the strange vibration started. I have now the answer. The race of the bearings did not blue or discolor but since I am changing the rollers I will change the race. I also noticed that the spacer on the left had variations of over 10 one-thousandths so I am replacing it as well as the axle just to insure that the problem goes away.

Re-jetted the carb to 185 and 48 for the new cam and was curious as to what the needle jet sitting at the rear of the carb under the choke plate just before the manifold screw setting was from the factory. I had five full from it's dead end and wanted to know if this jet is not set appropriately what will the bike exhibit as the consequence of the improper setting?

I cleaned every orifice of the carb with cleaner and cotton swabs. Hopefully this will give her a little boost.

Pinetop
Just a note Pinetop , dont meen to be snotty but be sure to lube the bearings with grease and not anti. seize . Sorry but have seen it before.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 11:45 AM
  #10  
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I sure hope the current Harley grease was better than the factory snot I found in mine ,hardly any left in bearing,went to Ford black grease for mine as it almost looks like I just greased it when re-greasing bearings.
 
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