If ya got beer and BBQ I think you could get another forum member to help out. There seems to be a lot of you from Obama land...

 

Its easy, you need to mark the timing backplate before pulling that and then remove the ign cup, position the notch in the cam at 5 o'clock and the tappets will be unloaded.

Pull cover, clean up the surfaces, replace the seal while you are in there and slap it back together with a new gasket, line up the timing backplate marks and she's good to go. It's a 2 beer job.

 

wow you make it seem so easy.

SO Pull off the cam cover which is the small round one?
what does the notch look like? I have never seen or take this apart before so I have no idea what im looking at.
If I get that far, then just remove the cover and relplace gaskets?
seems easy but hopefully I can take a pic and repost up here so you can help if possible

 

ok I got this far and I can imagine that the bolt that I have to take off, the spacer has a notch on it. Is this what needs to be at 5?
If so how do I get it there. I have the bike off the ground and im trying to rotate the back tire in N and drive gears and it dont move much if any.

So how do I get this to 5?

 

You have to rotate the wheel in gear (I advise 5th).
When you rotate the tire in neutral you aren't turning the engine and you have to turn the engine to turn the cam.

 

will it even go in 5th gear without running?

I thought it would only go to 3rd when not running.

I had it on other gears and it was NOT turning much at all or any

 

Take the spark plugs out, be much easier to rotate. Sometimes you have to rotate the wheel by "knocking" it....that is you have a bit of slack in the tranny and drive train, so you swing the wheel back and the forwards and give it a good nudge on the forward stroke. This will turn the motor over in small increments until you are in the desired position.

 

I usually rotate in 2nd gear or sometimes even first.

 

Pull the bolt cover it in rtv reinstall . Worked for me

 

Warning: Contrarian alert!
I hate RTV for flat mating surfaces w/no lip. In fact, the only place I use it is instead of base gaskets. That said, if your mating surfaces are perfectly flat, your gaskets should seal without needing any additional wonder goo.

How do you tell if your gasket mating surface is flat? Paint it, preferably w/machinist's dye, (a permanent Sharpie will work in a pinch), tape a piece of fine sandpaper to a pane of glass, and rub the gasket surface of your part back/forth across the sandpaper a couple times. Pick it up and look at the "paint" - and see whether ALL the paint wore off evenly, or if there are some spots that are still painted.

If you still have some paint, your gasket surface isn't flat, and you need to re-paint, and rub the part on the sandpaper until the paint wears off evenly.

I'm not gonna get on a soapbox about my RTV opinion, except to say that when it gets someplace it's not supposed to be, that it can create other issues.

Hope this helps!
Sincerely, your local ****-retentive shade tree wrencher.