Having hard time splitting cases.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,705
Likes: 22,718
From: Farmington ,MS
At this point it makes no sense not to do the crank...the sabotage theory sounds good, but you have to keep going on the idea the the metal came from the motor.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,080
Likes: 2,154
From: Ohio
This is where methotical decesions come in: Cowboy it, clean everything up and ride with doubts in your mind on a 500 mile ride in area's where Deliverance could be was remade, you have had metal go threw it, think about it. Have that crank set up proper with new bearings knowing it is right and peace of mind when you take off. I had a crank pin failure happen and it is nasty, hard parts can be cleaned and rotating parts need replaced.
John Sachs in your area is a scientist on Harley engines with a no BS approach, other engine builders respect him. He did some machine work on the White Bike's engine and taught me alot along the way and I know what I'd do in your situation, set that crank up right and hear the sweet sound of a rev limiter or roll the dice, nothing worse can happen than loosing a engine in a remote area, trying to get ahold of a friend with a trailer to get the bike home and rebuild the engine with new rotating parts that wasn't installed last time the motor was apart. Watch Deliverance before making a decision
John Sachs in your area is a scientist on Harley engines with a no BS approach, other engine builders respect him. He did some machine work on the White Bike's engine and taught me alot along the way and I know what I'd do in your situation, set that crank up right and hear the sweet sound of a rev limiter or roll the dice, nothing worse can happen than loosing a engine in a remote area, trying to get ahold of a friend with a trailer to get the bike home and rebuild the engine with new rotating parts that wasn't installed last time the motor was apart. Watch Deliverance before making a decision
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 5
From: Florida
I don't really have the spare cash to even tear it down, add a cam/cam bushing, and put it back together, but I'm gonna do what I can.
I would really like to have the big end totally gone through, but I'm guessing that would add $300-500 or more to what I'm already facing. I understand I would be taking a chance, but is it reasonable to expect at least a couple of years/ few thousand miles if I clean/flush everything really good and replace the cam/cam bearing/cam bushing, given the fact it was running so well when I tore it down?
I know most of you will say it's a crapshoot. Even though stuff is "sandpapered", I don't see any major pitting/scoring. What are the chances the crank pin/rod bearings are totally trashed? Keeping in mind, alleged 14k original miles and ran really good, absolutely no noises.
Please, no flaming for being cheap, I really don't have a choice, unless I let it sit and rust for a while until I could save up the cash.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 5
From: Florida
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 2
From: Florida
I'm cheap like you. When my crankpin went, I took the top end off, and trailered the bike down to a shop. He went through the bottom completely, I saw the cases when he was soaking them, nothing on them. He replaced a bunch of things, got it back together and back in the bike for less than $800. I have the receipt somewhere, I can dig it up. But that was labor and parts. I stopped going to that shop because of his sidekick, but that's another story.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,080
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From: Ohio
I did a S&S stroker kit and the catsa$$, they currently are $1000 and $200 for pistons. If you want the bike on the road then do what it takes, brake clean with a straw would work great on flushing the crank pin bearings. flush everything plus the oil tank and lines. Clean the crap out of it let it eat, budget is a budget and setting is an ornament, were behind you.
The only thing I could suggest from my bearing failure is replace the lifters, they hold oil and metal, replace the oil after running the engine there will still be some metallic come out
The only thing I could suggest from my bearing failure is replace the lifters, they hold oil and metal, replace the oil after running the engine there will still be some metallic come out
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: la la land jerzey
i forgot i had posted what i thought was a helping hand, going to a shop to have it checked BUT now that i have read all the posts, and read about the debris, what i think its not a sabo job But its the rear rod grinding the flywheel washers and or the crank pin hardness has worn off --
the special tools were on the cheap side, a press for removing the timkin L/S bearing its also full of what ever -- Than the re install well that tool is not cheap BUT you can always leave the engines main bearing full of metal i guess -- sorry for any confusion been doing this 2 weeks now -- jz
the special tools were on the cheap side, a press for removing the timkin L/S bearing its also full of what ever -- Than the re install well that tool is not cheap BUT you can always leave the engines main bearing full of metal i guess -- sorry for any confusion been doing this 2 weeks now -- jz