EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Having hard time splitting cases.

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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 07:15 PM
  #21  
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"Now, now peeps, let's all share the love, as long as they don't run a car tyre and have SOA handlebars then its all cool...."

Or cupholders! You forgot cupholders.

Rock on HarDlife. The biggest danger you pose is making idiots like me think that we can do it too.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 07:27 PM
  #22  
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Success!

I finally got it apart! Again, I don't see anything pitted, scored, or otherwise damaged. The crank assembly feels super smooth when rotating. I need to take the left side case to a shop and have it pressed out to check the bearing. Here's a couple of pics (you knew they were coming) of the right side bearing and case bushing:





If everything else checks out and all in spec I guess I'll clean everything up real good and start re-assembly.

I think Dr. Hess might have hit the nail on the head with the sabotage theory. Crazy.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 07:40 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Whitey1
Rock on HarDlife. The biggest danger you pose is making idiots like me think that we can do it too.
It really isn't that hard. I'm doing this as an EVO novice w/ a hodgepodge of basic hand tools, a little floor jack and jack stands (don't have a bike lift), help from forum gurus, and a service manual.

That's the beauty of EVO, they are relatively simple machines. Trick is to just be methodical and thorough in your approach. I don't think it would be a problem for you, or for most for that matter. Thanks for the props though.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 08:05 PM
  #24  
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You can see the damage, the rollers and the race look like they've been sandpapered so the gritty slurry has been through there....this is especially evident in the race (bush)...I think you'll be OK though. It might have knocked 40K off the life of the motor but they do 150K if you look after them.

Flush EVERYTHING! and when its all spotlessly clean, flush it all again and especially down through the intake on the cam side of the crank spigot so that it flushes the big end properly.

Take pics of the left hand side bearing please.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 08:33 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Spanners39
You can see the damage, the rollers and the race look like they've been sandpapered so the gritty slurry has been through there....this is especially evident in the race (bush)...I think you'll be OK though. It might have knocked 40K off the life of the motor but they do 150K if you look after them.

Flush EVERYTHING! and when its all spotlessly clean, flush it all again and especially down through the intake on the cam side of the crank spigot so that it flushes the big end properly.

Take pics of the left hand side bearing please.
You're right, looking at the pics again I see it. Guess I was just happy I got the cases split so I didn't look closely.
I'll post a pic of the LH bearing when I get it apart. You think I should just go ahead and do the bearings while I have it apart? Should I have the crank/ flywheels/ crank pin checked? I'm trying to do this on the cheap, but I don't want to do it again in a few thousand miles. Anything else?

I forgot to mention this before, my cam didn't have that funky thrust washer, just a regular flat washer. Is that correct?
 

Last edited by HarDlife; Sep 19, 2013 at 08:44 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 09:34 PM
  #26  
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I've never done it, but I would probably at least research truing and balancing the flywheels at this point. An opportunity to build it "better than new".

I can't remember from the other threads how much of your money we are spending. Can we get away with a hone and rings or do we need to bore and buy new pistons? Any head work? Is the oil pump ok? I am assuming new cam and bearing, not sure what I am forgetting.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 09:50 PM
  #27  
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Here's an example: http://www.revperf.com/Products/machineShop.html#

$338.

This may be the same place the former owner of an independent shop in Indianapolis used. If you are interested I can try to verify this is the right place. I don't have any dogs in this hunt other than to help you.

I really appreciate your pics and the diagnosis' by the experienced wrenches. Good stuff.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 10:54 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by HarDlife
You're right, looking at the pics again I see it. Guess I was just happy I got the cases split so I didn't look closely.
I'll post a pic of the LH bearing when I get it apart. You think I should just go ahead and do the bearings while I have it apart? Should I have the crank/ flywheels/ crank pin checked? I'm trying to do this on the cheap, but I don't want to do it again in a few thousand miles. Anything else?

I forgot to mention this before, my cam didn't have that funky thrust washer, just a regular flat washer. Is that correct?

For your bike it is the correct washer.

I really have two dogs in this fight as regards advice to you.

If it was my bike I would leave it as is if I was poor at the time but on the other hand, if its this far apart and you have no labour costs apart from getting the big end replaced you might as well do it properly and never have to think about it again.

The real issue is whether the hardening on the rollers is compromised enough to give trouble in future...also, you haven't seen the crankpin yet and there might be some bad voodoo in there....might be OK but you should price up the work and the parts and then decide as a fistful of dollars buys a lot of peace of mind.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 12:03 AM
  #29  
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HarDlife you might want to look at just putting it back together and getting a Harley reman motor.

Trying to get all the grit out of that one sounds like a serious pain in the ***.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 12:09 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
HarDlife you might want to look at just putting it back together and getting a Harley reman motor.

And where is the fun in that? Its also way more expensive than doing it yourself...hell, we can't even get them down here...
 
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