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One shop owner told me those things will go out of round when hot at higher rpms and self destruct. When I first got my bike, the first time I was it there, it was a disaster. The casing was gouged out around it, and the breather was trashed. If it's supposed to save the case, it didn't do a very good job on mine.
I can't see how they can go out of round at high RPM....I am thinking that centrifugal force and the hole in the case would keep it real.
Its a potential "oil thread" so best to make up your own mind, I have never seen a nylon one cause damage but I haven't worked on every Harley on the planet (yet)....I think the bike mentioned above might have ingested something through the breather that it was metal but I wasn't there so can't comment.
You MUST replace the wrist pin circlips if you have removed them, you can't reuse them and have a motor that keeps running.
If the pinion keys have no wear or grooves in their sides then you can reuse them.
Originally Posted by Spanners39
And some people swear by adjustable pushrods, whereas I think they are the work of Satan....
Do the research, read the posts and decide for yourself is all I can advise.
Yeah, I think I might have opened a can of worms with some of my questions.
Yeah, I think I might have opened a can of worms with some of my questions.
(I agree about PRs, btw)
Can of worms or not, its good to air these things, some aftermarket stuff is totally misrepresented and people will tell you anything to take your dollars off you.
Making a parts list for the rebuild, have questions.
Would like to use an EV 27, but I've read about noise and increased wear on valvetrain, true or false? I mainly ride solo, in/around town, semi-aggressive riding style w/ occasional 2 up, no gear, back roads. I don't wanna beat the lifters up. 27, or something else? Gonna reuse stock PRs. Torrington, of course.
Lifters. Stockers seem okay and have alleged 14k rough miles on them. Go ahead and replace? Best low budget choice?
Breather gear. As some may recall I have some very light scoring in bore. Should I go stock nylon, steel rotary, or reed breather?
Heads, cylinders, pistons, and rings seem perfectly fine. Gonna run 'em.
Gaskets/seals. Obviously, going to replace the one that were destroyed. What about rocker, PR tubes, and primary, they look really good, replace 'em anyway? Just get a top-end kit? Cometic? .030 HGs? Best case sealer?
Carb. Was gonna rebuild/re-jet while off. I was thinking 45 pilot/180 main would be a good start w/ EV27 or similar cam, yes? Any other carby tweaks? Green Performance filter/ drilled breather plate for better breathing. Already have SE slip-ons.
Anything else?
Are you going to start a build thread? If you do or add pics as you go to another thread I would like to see how you do and if anything was a bitch.
In 18 years of running one, I haven't had any issues with the EV27 cam. A better cam IS one of the necessary improvements to any EVO. IMHO.
Free flowing air cleaner, free flowing exhust (note, that doesn't always mean ear splitting loud), and an upgraded ignition. All will make the EVO run like it should've run from the factory.
Are you going to start a build thread? If you do or add pics as you go to another thread I would like to see how you do and if anything was a bitch.
Thanks
I will definitely start a thread once I get started, and of course there will be pics! I know how you pervs like to watch!
Originally Posted by Hackd
In 18 years of running one, I haven't had any issues with the EV27 cam. A better cam IS one of the necessary improvements to any EVO. IMHO.
Free flowing air cleaner, free flowing exhust (note, that doesn't always mean ear splitting loud), and an upgraded ignition. All will make the EVO run like it should've run from the factory.
Good to know, Hackd. I already have an SE module/SE wires. I assume that is sufficient for my build, correct?
I know many guys on this forum have talked about the V Thunder line of cams-have you given those a look?
They say they emphasize reducing valve train clatter when they design their cams, which is one of the things you mentioned is important to you.
I will be replacing cam, lifters and some other things after I get my son married off next week, and I am leaning toward the EVL-3010 for my "stripped down" Electra Glide. They also have the advantage of selling their cams with or without the pinion gear in case you are planning to reuse your old one for less gear whine. Saves you some coin both in the initial purchase and possibly at the machine shop (don't have to remove the new pinion gear from the new cam).
Obviously they have a wide selection of different grinds that would likely be suitable for your ride...might be worth a look.
I know many guys on this forum have talked about the V Thunder line of cams-have you given those a look?
They say they emphasize reducing valve train clatter when they design their cams, which is one of the things you mentioned is important to you.
I will be replacing cam, lifters and some other things after I get my son married off next week, and I am leaning toward the EVL-3010 for my "stripped down" Electra Glide. They also have the advantage of selling their cams with or without the pinion gear in case you are planning to reuse your old one for less gear whine. Saves you some coin both in the initial purchase and possibly at the machine shop (don't have to remove the new pinion gear from the new cam).
Obviously they have a wide selection of different grinds that would likely be suitable for your ride...might be worth a look.
The evl-3010 was my other consideration, along with an EV13. I want to get the most bang for my buck, without taking life off components. The 3010 is tempting. I found the evl-3010ng for $87 bucks, have you seen it cheaper anywhere?
The evl-3010 was my other consideration, along with an EV13. I want to get the most bang for my buck, without taking life off components. The 3010 is tempting. I found the evl-3010ng for $87 bucks, have you seen it cheaper anywhere?
Had a 3010 in my FLHTC. She ran great! And was NOT noisy in any way.
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