Evo Rockers and Lifters
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Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Pittsburgh
Evo Rockers and Lifters
New to the forum and new to Harleys. Have an 89 Ultra Glide FLHTCU with 57,000 miles. All stock and previous owner had top end done. Compression is 150 both cyl. First thing I did is cv carb conversion. Runs strong but tapping in the rear cyl was cause for concern especially since I know the PO had trouble with the shop that did the top end.
Tore into it and find rocker bushings are worn and lifters are still the old model. My question is do I attempt new rocker bushings myself or will the dealer install them for a fair price? Or do I just buy new rockers and shafts?
Lifters still roll smooth but a little play on the rollers. Im ordering a set of updated lifters. The cam looks good so is it ok to leave it and just update the bearing. The lifter blocks seem smooth so can I keep them?
I guess I'm going to assume the head is ok and the work done on it is good. Gaskets and parts are adding up quick. Thanks for any advice.
Tore into it and find rocker bushings are worn and lifters are still the old model. My question is do I attempt new rocker bushings myself or will the dealer install them for a fair price? Or do I just buy new rockers and shafts?
Lifters still roll smooth but a little play on the rollers. Im ordering a set of updated lifters. The cam looks good so is it ok to leave it and just update the bearing. The lifter blocks seem smooth so can I keep them?
I guess I'm going to assume the head is ok and the work done on it is good. Gaskets and parts are adding up quick. Thanks for any advice.
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Novice
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From: Pittsburgh
Last night the cone came off and the bearing is a torrington and the gasket is James. It's a shame They didn't do the lifters for me. How can I tell what the cam is? It has 2 timing marks thats it. Also has an odd shaped spacer that my manual says only pre-1987 should have?
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From: la la land jerzey
- the spacer - lots of shops go back to the older spacer as it is locked in place and not spining the entire time the cam is turning, it is a thrust and will work both ways your choice
turn the cam around in your hand look at the back of it if the end lobe might have an N or a V if its stock - some performance cams have numbers on the lobe or on the end bearing spud - look post up whats on it
cam timing - one mark is at 6 oclock when it time with the pinion gear is at 12 oclock
the other mark is at 8 oclock for the breather gear and its timing mark is around 2 oclock
it is a money thing if you can do it put a cam in if not do a set of lifters - johnjzjz
turn the cam around in your hand look at the back of it if the end lobe might have an N or a V if its stock - some performance cams have numbers on the lobe or on the end bearing spud - look post up whats on it
cam timing - one mark is at 6 oclock when it time with the pinion gear is at 12 oclock
the other mark is at 8 oclock for the breather gear and its timing mark is around 2 oclock
it is a money thing if you can do it put a cam in if not do a set of lifters - johnjzjz
Last edited by johnjzjz; Feb 5, 2014 at 08:08 AM.
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From: Pittsburgh
Cam has "L" I know what the 2 marks are for but just wasnt sure what the manual was referring to about 2 marks being pre-1987.
I can measure the lobes if that will help identify the cam. Maybe it's something good?
The lifters are obviously worn enough for me to put new in with 57,000. I'm finding the new style stock lifters for about $100
How about the rocker arm bushings? Do the dealerships install them properly or should I invest in the ream to do them? Or buy new?
I can measure the lobes if that will help identify the cam. Maybe it's something good?
The lifters are obviously worn enough for me to put new in with 57,000. I'm finding the new style stock lifters for about $100
How about the rocker arm bushings? Do the dealerships install them properly or should I invest in the ream to do them? Or buy new?
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Novice
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From: Pittsburgh
I found out the "L" is stock HD 1981-91. Im going to put new lifters in and look at cam prices. Rocker arms I still dont know which way to go?
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From: la la land jerzey
i would suggest using a local shop to do it -- A HD dealer at least in jersey expects you to Genuflect at the door before they even talk to you and 150 an hour while they drink coffee
cams run around 150 - Before you go and have bushings installed in worthless rockers - not saying they are but you bought a used bike and its not beneath some shops to switch parts if they knew he was selling it --
post up a pictures of the pads that sit on top of the valves some wear is fine to re use some types of wear is not --
the bushings -- If you buy the split type the china tool you will buy at 1/3 the cost of jims tool, wont cut the ( non ) split type, the china tool just about cuts the split ones and its not cheap sooo, the retail cost on the bushings ( non split type ) jims are 11 bucks each you need 8 of them ( the split type < harley bushings were split type are 4 bucks each ) plus the labor to remove them and install them 150 bucks parts and labor is around what most charge for the job maybe some guys are cheaper and someone is always more --
cams run around 150 - Before you go and have bushings installed in worthless rockers - not saying they are but you bought a used bike and its not beneath some shops to switch parts if they knew he was selling it --
post up a pictures of the pads that sit on top of the valves some wear is fine to re use some types of wear is not --
the bushings -- If you buy the split type the china tool you will buy at 1/3 the cost of jims tool, wont cut the ( non ) split type, the china tool just about cuts the split ones and its not cheap sooo, the retail cost on the bushings ( non split type ) jims are 11 bucks each you need 8 of them ( the split type < harley bushings were split type are 4 bucks each ) plus the labor to remove them and install them 150 bucks parts and labor is around what most charge for the job maybe some guys are cheaper and someone is always more --
Last edited by johnjzjz; Feb 5, 2014 at 12:57 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Somewhere, PA
Whatever you decide to do with the rockers, do NOT use the wavy washers to try and take up the end-to-end slack. Those things are brittle and break, when the pieces end up all over the engine and take out bearings, the breather gear cavity, etc. Every Shovel I pick up to rebuild, checking for those POS wavy washers is one of the first things I do...
Others have ya covered on the other topics and, as mentioned, it money is an issue I would make sure the lifters are good before moving into another cam, etc.
Others have ya covered on the other topics and, as mentioned, it money is an issue I would make sure the lifters are good before moving into another cam, etc.