Well guys I guess this is it for this thread. Nothing left to do but ride it. Appreciate everyone's help repairing the many issues I've had, good group of people on here. Thanks!

 

Nice people (HOG) here. GL brother!

 

If you haven't tried this give it a shot. It made a difference on my bike. It seems the basic idea is to shake down the isolators with the full weight of the swingarm pulling on the rear mount. It's worth a shot. Just do # 13 and then check the alignment. I ran mine for the full 30 seconds. I tightened the frame to mount bolts first to keep the mounts centered. Front frame then front engine, rear frame then rear engine.

 

I did the shakedown a couple times, as well as alignment and I even removed the exhaust brace and when that didn't work I removed the slip ons to test it that way. I don't know! I'm contemplating adding an extra spring to the comp cover to give that a try, but I really don't want to pull the primary cover again. Went for a ride last night, if I get stuck anywhere from 35mph or lower its miserable, if there's no cars on the road and I can get to at least 40 it's liveable to some degree.

I'm starting to think the aluminum pullback risers are part of the issue. I was watching this yesterday since I was stuck at at 30 and it shakes at the handlebar clamp, I can see it moving there, but it's not bad if you touch the engine or even the triple trees. I could hold either for hours with no issue. I just installed new OEM rubber bushings before the ride. It made a slight difference, but I think softer ones would help, but they only seem to sell poly which I just took off.

 

Stock oem bushings no change. Compression test 125 F 130 R cold engine. Looked down the pistons are carbon free and very clean. Still feels like it's electrical to me but I can't locate anything. Plugs look good jetting is right.

Is there a way to test the ignition system while running like the coil while the bike is running at a specific rpm?

 

The "shake", does the bike shake, or just the bars?

 

You could find a good shop that has a dyno. They are able to hook the bike up to all that gadgetry and tell you if there are problems while running.

 

I can feel it all over it shakes the bars hardest. Threw the apes back on to absorb it so I can ride, 15 minutes on the stock bars and my hands are pins and needles. Torn on the black bars vs chrome

 

Crank crank crank crank crank crank crank...

Largest amount of reciprocating mass... only thing left that could make it shake that bad.

 

Black bars KP IMO. They flow with the black lowers on the front end.