95"

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Oct 13, 2005 | 05:01 PM

The King

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95"

can somebody tell me if there is any benefit to buying cylinders and pistons when you go
to 95" instead of boring the stock 88's. Is there more fin area for cooling or thicker walls on
the aftermarket 95's? Will I run into detonation problems or need compression releases if I go to 10.5 to 1. Will reliability suffer? Thanks for any advise

Oct 15, 2005 | 02:47 AM

Stkman

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RE: 95"

I have a 88" motor in my 03 and I'm going to bore the stock cylinders, my buddy that does machine work says no problem with boring the stock cylinders and will only be running 9.5 to 1 compression. I would not go with 10.5 to 1 compression to much for todays gas. I'm running that compression in my EVO motor and the engine runs alot hotter, had to retard the timing, and I have to run compression releases to start the motor.

Oct 18, 2005 | 09:31 AM

The King

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RE: 95"

Thanks for the reply Stkman. Since the last post I talk to a company called headquarters
They told me the same. If your giong to do your motor you might want to give them a
look. Their talking 95 hp and 100lbs torque out of a 95" package. Their price seemed
very reasonable. The website is www.head-quarters.com. If anybody has dealt with them I
would like to know how they made out.

Oct 18, 2005 | 11:57 AM

HDWRENCH

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From: Fort Worth TX

RE: 95"

The use of used cylinders are better as they have been used and are done moving around this is called a seasoned cylinder. AND you cannot make a blanket statement that 10.5 is too much for todays gas. Bottom line is the cam you choose will dicate your compression, you can make 9.7 too much for pump gas with the incorrect cam. Also peak numbers mean nothing at all. Making 100 peak is great on paper but where and when does it come on and stop????

I just did a 98 inch kit with a 37g cam and it makes very nice tq numbers starting at 1750 with 78 and by 2500 is at 97 and peaking at 107 with a very flat curve. That is a ideal set up for everyday use, big fat tq curve. Be conservative on the cam and you will be rewarded with great street power go after the peak numbers used for selling parts and you will get the peak( maybe) but it may not be a a " well mannered street package"

Oct 18, 2005 | 12:13 PM

TxMoores

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RE: 95"

Quote:

ORIGINAL: HDWRENCH

The use of used cylinders are better as they have been used and are done moving around this is called a seasoned cylinder.

hdwrench,
At this last weeks SPI rally the use of new vs. old cylinders for big bore kits came up over some beers with several bike builders and the consensus was that you 'season cast iron skillets for cooking'. Several said that the process of boring and honing a cylinder would basically change it back to a new cylinder as you now have fresh steel on the inside and with the new wall thicknesses would cause the cylinders to expand differently than stock.... Were these guys full of it (besides the beer) or is it somewhere between the two?

Oct 18, 2005 | 03:13 PM

HDWRENCH

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From: Fort Worth TX

RE: 95"

Metal will only move around for a short time. A unseasoned cylinder is consindered "green" Boring the cylinder cannot take out the amount of time the cylinder has been heated and cooled, during that period the molacules have all found there " happy " place and will move slightly but not to the extent that it will alter the cylinder shape. ALso if you are boring cylinder and heating to the extent of the cylinder vastly changing shape you need to slow down or use a different oil for cutting. I let my cylinders cool completely before honing, this give me the best roundness with .0005 which is cool with me, as I take pride in getting that type of tolerance.

Oct 21, 2005 | 04:56 PM

04RoadKing

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RE: 95"

HDwrench sounds like he knows his stuff, I agree 100% with everthing that I've read that HDwrench has posted. He sounds alot like they guy that did my build. I was very concerned with reliabilty, but wanted my RK to hall *** at the same time. So I let him at it. He ended up boring my stock cylinders to 97" and used Wiseco 10.5:1 pistons and did what he called a Super Stock Head job to my stock cyclinders and used Daytona Twintec Ignition, and S&S Gear drive Cams. I haven't ever had any problems with with anythng and I have over 11000 miles on the build.
So I guess what I'm trying to say is, every wrench is going to have his own opinion.Exspecially the HD dealers they want you to think you have to buy the 95" jugs and the SE heads. Listen to people like HDwrench, take there advice they have been building up HD's for a long time.
If I lived in the Arizona area HDwrench would be working on my bike.