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Okay guys after doing some research I have come up with these build ideas, what do you guys think and what do you think of the expected power/reliability.
2006 Dyna FXDWG
Going for 9.8 CR
37H Andrews Cam (non gear) $245 Roller Chain Drives apparently they are good?
Push Rods? Not sure on SE? Which type will I need?
Stock 06 Heads Ported, Measured, and Possibly milled by Big Boyz Heads $394
Stock 06 Jugs Bored by Big Boyz $130
Pistons: Cast SE Flat Top or High Compression depending on heads $125
Total: $894 + pushrods and labor
Other idea was buying one of these Cheap SE Big Bore Kits off eBay $600
SE 203 cams
Cylinder/Jugs pre-bored
Pistons
Clips
Air Cleaner/Breather (already have)
High Perf Cluth Spring *Cam Spacer Recommended* (What is this and why)?
Total: $994 w/heads ported + pushrods and labor
Seems I don’t save to much buying the SE kit and I imagine Andrews cam gives more power? What do you guys think? Trying to have a powerful build in the 90s with stock reliability, appreciate all the help and especially *cardboard* ‘s posts on Big Boyz Heads, I called them up they really seem to know what they are doing and made me feel comfortable.
*P.S. I believe everything else will remain stock I know I can use the stock springs/valves on the heads. Anything else I am leaving out that I would need that’s not stock? Thanks*
The 1st build hands down. Have seen and worked with both builds basicaly. The head work is what will make this thing shine. IMO Its a no brainer. At that compression you will use the Flat tops. Would probably get the SE adjustable pushrods myself and new HD"B" lifters if yours have more than 10 or 15 thousand on them and a .030 Cometic head gasket. Will probably get 90+ torque may or may not horses with that compression. If you go with Bean or any good porter you can discusse what you expect and what you need to get there. As they say "Speed cost. How fast do you want to go?"
In regards to your last statment about power/reliabilty, I thing you could go with a little more power and still have reliability.
If you put the 10.5 to 1 pop-up in, I would spend a couple of more $s and have comprsion releases instaled in the heads and change the valve springs, I would stick with a cam intake duration close to the 37s, but go with a higher lift. The S&S .570 cam or the HQ .575 cam would give you a big suprise when you cracked the thottle!
Edlebrock does great stuff for cars, that's all I'll say about that. Just bore your cylinders to 95 or 98". We have pistons and the Rottler diamond hone. $480.00.
..The head work is what will make this thing shine.
Interesting you say that.. everything I've read points to stock Twin Cam heads as inadequate to their potential... I even read they have no better flow capability than the smaller 80 cube Evo heads which were better suited to that displacement than the TC heads are to 88" or more. Leads me to believe any top-end hop-up definitely requires good head-work or other heads entirely.
You are exactly right Babs. I thank you miss read or didn't understand what I said or maby I didn't understand what you are saying. lolThe 1st build he listed included included head work from Bean at BIG BOYZ including cam and big bore. The second build he listed was just an all SE kit reusing the stock heads as is. No head workThe Twin Head can be made to preform but they have to be worked on by some one who knows what they are doing.
The 37 build hands down, I have built two of these exact builds this spring and have 2 more in the works right now. The torque is instant and the reliability is excellent, I don't believe you could come up with a more economical build and get this kind of performance. I also can tell you from building SERT maps on these builds starting out with a map designed for the 203 cams that the 37 build ends up with much higher VE numbers which tells me this combo is really flowing well. And besides, you want to deal with someone on Ebay, or someone like Bean who will answer all of your questions and be there if you have problems.
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