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I'm going to have some work done on my bike this winter and wanted some feedback. I'm not experienced working with engines but I'll do my best to keep up. I bought this bike used this spring.
My bike has a SE Stage III 1550 kit with a SE 257 cam. I have the SERT and it was dyno tuned in 06 when the engine was done. After that, the baffles were cut in 1/2 (I assume to make it louder?). The service records indicate another dyno tune was discussed at this time, but it looks like it wasn't done. There is no charge for it and no hours associated. I assume they felt the performance was fine. The bike has V&N longshots and the air cleaner is nothing special. Sorry I'm not more specific on this point but the service records I have (25 pages) don't mention it that I can see. I asked my indy and he indicated it wasn't the best. Something like 2 1/4" paper filter?
This is my second Harley. My first was an EVO (93 Low Rider Custom) with only a Stage I upgrade. In my mind, the EVO had more pull. The bike was lighter and so was I so that may be all it was. However, I'm certain I should have more torque and HP on my Heritage than what it has for the work done on it to date. Unfortunately, the dealer didn't indicate the dyno results on the invoice so I can't tell where it was at.
My plan was to take it to my indy this winter and replace the cut down baffles with new ones. It doesn't seem to have the back pressure it should. Get the bike more air with an improved air intake and then put it back on the dyno with the SERT to give it a better tune. My indy is suggesting replacing the cam for a Head Quarters 575. Cost parts/labour about $600 for the cam job. Would you guys agree with this direction? What about this cam versus others? Would you do anything else while in you're in there?
I'm going to have some work done on my bike this winter and wanted some feedback. I'm not experienced working with engines but I'll do my best to keep up. I bought this bike used this spring.
My bike has a SE Stage III 1550 kit with a SE 257 cam. I have the SERT and it was dyno tuned in 06 when the engine was done. After that, the baffles were cut in 1/2 (I assume to make it louder?). The service records indicate another dyno tune was discussed at this time, but it looks like it wasn't done. There is no charge for it and no hours associated. I assume they felt the performance was fine. The bike has V&N longshots and the air cleaner is nothing special. Sorry I'm not more specific on this point but the service records I have (25 pages) don't mention it that I can see. I asked my indy and he indicated it wasn't the best. Something like 2 1/4" paper filter?
This is my second Harley. My first was an EVO (93 Low Rider Custom) with only a Stage I upgrade. In my mind, the EVO had more pull. The bike was lighter and so was I so that may be all it was. However, I'm certain I should have more torque and HP on my Heritage than what it has for the work done on it to date. Unfortunately, the dealer didn't indicate the dyno results on the invoice so I can't tell where it was at.
My plan was to take it to my indy this winter and replace the cut down baffles with new ones. It doesn't seem to have the back pressure it should. Get the bike more air with an improved air intake and then put it back on the dyno with the SERT to give it a better tune. My indy is suggesting replacing the cam for a Head Quarters 575. Cost parts/labour about $600 for the cam job. Would you guys agree with this direction? What about this cam versus others? Would you do anything else while in you're in there?
Thanks for your ideas.
Your EVO had more pull because it was geared for more TORQUE output at the rear wheel. Your current ride is geared for EMISSIONS, LOL, and passing them. It has a poor 3.15 primary gearing ratio setup stock. Want to do something VERY WORTHWHILE to your ride over the winter? Change out that primary gearing to 3.37 or 3.48 and watch that bike come alive..............
......I also agree that a cam made more more low end engine power will also give you benefits, but the gearing on your bike is poor and should be changed out. It will make all the difference in the world.
Gearing is a real plus, but the 3.15 is not all that bad compared to what those of us have on our 07 an 08 bikes - 2.79 final drive, but if you are primarily an around town rider with not a lot of long trips at 75 mph plus, gearing will make the bike much more responsive. I do like the HQ cams, but you need to find out what the compression ration is now of your build and what heads and pistons were used prior to just saying you are going to go with the HQ 575. There are so many variables that what you call a HD stage III kit could have different heads and CR's depending on the choices of components when the engine was built. Once you determine the build specs, the best cam for what you have can be determined.
Gearing is a real plus, but the 3.15 is not all that bad compared to what those of us have on our 07 an 08 bikes - 2.79 final drive, but if you are primarily an around town rider with not a lot of long trips at 75 mph plus, gearing will make the bike much more responsive. I do like the HQ cams, but you need to find out what the compression ration is now of your build and what heads and pistons were used prior to just saying you are going to go with the HQ 575. There are so many variables that what you call a HD stage III kit could have different heads and CR's depending on the choices of components when the engine was built. Once you determine the build specs, the best cam for what you have can be determined.
I had a chance to hop from friends 08' bagger the other day, its pretty much bone stock minus the AC and pipes and a PCIII. Damn its sluggish. And I can't fault the engine fully either. Not a fan of how they gear em. I now know why he complains of the engine lugging so much.
Gearing is a real plus, but the 3.15 is not all that bad compared to what those of us have on our 07 an 08 bikes - 2.79 final drive, but if you are primarily an around town rider with not a lot of long trips at 75 mph plus, gearing will make the bike much more responsive. I do like the HQ cams, but you need to find out what the compression ration is now of your build and what heads and pistons were used prior to just saying you are going to go with the HQ 575. There are so many variables that what you call a HD stage III kit could have different heads and CR's depending on the choices of components when the engine was built. Once you determine the build specs, the best cam for what you have can be determined.
Holy crap, 2.79. I have an '07 Dyna and thought it was 3.15. What is currently the easiest way to get to the 3.15 or 3.37?
Holy crap, 2.79. I have an '07 Dyna and thought it was 3.15. What is currently the easiest way to get to the 3.15 or 3.37?
The primary may be compensated for a bit though by the new 6 sppeds gearing setup. Most likely first gear is a bit steeper to compensate for it a bit, but still, these newer bikes feel like they are geared poorly if you ask me.
The primary may be compensated for a bit though by the new 6 sppeds gearing setup. Most likely first gear is a bit steeper to compensate for it a bit, but still, these newer bikes feel like they are geared poorly if you ask me.
Totally agree, gearing is weak on these new bikes for sure. Had an 04 V-rod and dropped to a 26T front pulley from a 28T and man what a difference that made. Felt like 20 more lbs of torque out of the hole and it ripped through the gears.
What is the best way to gear down on an 07 Dyna? I've read about the front primary gear swap.
Gearing is a real plus, but the 3.15 is not all that bad compared to what those of us have on our 07 an 08 bikes - 2.79 final drive, but if you are primarily an around town rider with not a lot of long trips at 75 mph plus, gearing will make the bike much more responsive. I do like the HQ cams, but you need to find out what the compression ration is now of your build and what heads and pistons were used prior to just saying you are going to go with the HQ 575. There are so many variables that what you call a HD stage III kit could have different heads and CR's depending on the choices of components when the engine was built. Once you determine the build specs, the best cam for what you have can be determined.
Thanks for all the replies. As for what is in the Stage III build, here is the main list from the invoice on this job. There various gaskets etc. Let me know if I haven't included something you need to know.
16546-99 1550 CONVERSION KIT
16952-99C KIT, CYLINDER HEAD
17997-99A QUICK INSTALL PUSHROD
22868-00 SE TC88 HC1550 PIST
25155-00 SE 257 CAM KIT
32076-04 KIT, COMPRESSION RELEASE
32753-01 CYLINDER BASE COLLAR
37951-98 DIAPHRAGM SPRING
Your EVO had more pull because it was geared for more TORQUE output at the rear wheel. Your current ride is geared for EMISSIONS, LOL, and passing them. It has a poor 3.15 primary gearing ratio setup stock. Want to do something VERY WORTHWHILE to your ride over the winter? Change out that primary gearing to 3.37 or 3.48 and watch that bike come alive..............
......I also agree that a cam made more more low end engine power will also give you benefits, but the gearing on your bike is poor and should be changed out. It will make all the difference in the world.
So, help me understand this. The primary gearing...is that my transmission? I have the stock 5 speed in it now. Would this be helped by putting in the old SE 6 speed?
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