Another adjustable pushrod question
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 130
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles
Another adjustable pushrod question
My understanding is with adjustable pushrods on a 2000 TC88 the number your trying to hit is .100.
I have Jim's Aluminum adjustable's my engine has new Andrews 21n cams, I installed the updated roller cam kit and new B lifters.
It was quiet as a sewing machine, I know that's an exageration for a Harley motor, now it's developed a ticking after 200 miles.
My question is this:
Can I adjust the ticking out with the pushrods, they are 24 TPI, the instructions said to adjust 15 flats which I believe is aprox .104 which I did.
I was wondering if I went another 1/2 turn will it make a difference.
Should I put my old lifters back in which are quiet, they have 18,000 miles on them, or is the ticking normal with the 21n cams.
Mine are not clacking just ticking however when I get up to 4800 rpm it starts to sound like marbles.
Steve
I have Jim's Aluminum adjustable's my engine has new Andrews 21n cams, I installed the updated roller cam kit and new B lifters.
It was quiet as a sewing machine, I know that's an exageration for a Harley motor, now it's developed a ticking after 200 miles.
My question is this:
Can I adjust the ticking out with the pushrods, they are 24 TPI, the instructions said to adjust 15 flats which I believe is aprox .104 which I did.
I was wondering if I went another 1/2 turn will it make a difference.
Should I put my old lifters back in which are quiet, they have 18,000 miles on them, or is the ticking normal with the 21n cams.
Mine are not clacking just ticking however when I get up to 4800 rpm it starts to sound like marbles.
Steve
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,800
Likes: 414
From: Ellensburg, WA
If I were you and had to have adjustables, take out the aluminum and put screaming eagle adjustables in. They are made of steel and will last. I have personally seen, and heard of many more aluminum ones that have snapped of with very low miles. I just took out my Black widow cams and SE adjustables and replaced with SE 204 and stock push rods. Runs much better.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,352
Likes: 4
From: Augusta, GA
I'm putting Rivera taperlites in on Monday/Tuesday when Brown brings them and was planning on using the 0.10 adjustment but also did experience the front intake coming loose on me with the SE adjustables so I'm about as nervous as a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs....
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,663
Likes: 7
From: Northeast Ohio
I ran the Rivera Taperlites in my 120, after about 10k miles I had one shatter. Front intake shattered right at the top where the ball is pressed in. I am quite sure that this was most likely a one-off defect as I haven't heard of many other issues. I now run standard HD adjustables.
That being said, glad I carry tools with me cause when it shattered I was 4 states away at the top of a mountain. Had the old rod out, rocker box off and fished out the ball end and all buttoned up by the time help arrived with another pushrod.
That being said, glad I carry tools with me cause when it shattered I was 4 states away at the top of a mountain. Had the old rod out, rocker box off and fished out the ball end and all buttoned up by the time help arrived with another pushrod.
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 130
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From: Los Angeles
Ran the pushrods up to .145-.150 Tapets are quieter however I'm hearing top end noise now that I didn't hear before.
The bike runs great so I'll just crank the radio a bit and enjoy.
Thanks Hillside for the tip on the pushrod length, I don't mind wrenching on my bike kind of theraputic and very rewarding when it all comes together.
I wouldn't own a Jap bike, what fun would that be just riding it......lol
Steve
The bike runs great so I'll just crank the radio a bit and enjoy.
Thanks Hillside for the tip on the pushrod length, I don't mind wrenching on my bike kind of theraputic and very rewarding when it all comes together.
I wouldn't own a Jap bike, what fun would that be just riding it......lol
Steve
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 1
So it really is a matter of experience that keeping a bit more pressure on the lifters helps keep things quiet?
I'm putting Rivera taperlites in on Monday/Tuesday when Brown brings them and was planning on using the 0.10 adjustment but also did experience the front intake coming loose on me with the SE adjustables so I'm about as nervous as a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs....
I'm putting Rivera taperlites in on Monday/Tuesday when Brown brings them and was planning on using the 0.10 adjustment but also did experience the front intake coming loose on me with the SE adjustables so I'm about as nervous as a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs....
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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as far as the alum. p/r, they will work fine, got a set with 150k miles and rode hard and put up wet more times than i can shake a stick at.
the preload is .100 on the lifter. this is maintained to prevent the retainer ring in the lifter from being broken. the more aggressive cam profile will make more noise. as the cam goes around the peak, it will unload quicker than stock and cause some extra noise.
the oil flow through the lifter is not dependant upon the lifter stroke. matter of fact, i just about converted my hyd's to solids by using S&S spacers and run .025-.050 preload, only enough to quiten the engine. the reason is i run stealth and do not want a colapse lifter on my 7k+ run up.
the oil in the lifter is to remove and slack in the valve train. as a plus, with the spacers, i have virtually no bleed down so start ups are quick and quieter
the preload is .100 on the lifter. this is maintained to prevent the retainer ring in the lifter from being broken. the more aggressive cam profile will make more noise. as the cam goes around the peak, it will unload quicker than stock and cause some extra noise.
the oil flow through the lifter is not dependant upon the lifter stroke. matter of fact, i just about converted my hyd's to solids by using S&S spacers and run .025-.050 preload, only enough to quiten the engine. the reason is i run stealth and do not want a colapse lifter on my 7k+ run up.
the oil in the lifter is to remove and slack in the valve train. as a plus, with the spacers, i have virtually no bleed down so start ups are quick and quieter
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