Now what??
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 192
From: Lakeland, FL
Now what??
I've had a vibration in my engine/primary for as long as I can remember now. I can't find it. I can't get rid of it. I have been through everything. It started when the bike (2006 Fatboy) had an 88B with gear driven cams and 17k miles. Since then, I have done the following with no improvement.
95" (new se pistons, se jugs, intake, sensors, injectors, B lifters, andrews chromoly pushrods, baisley oil pressure spring)
new heads with a port and polish by Bean from Big Boyz
07+ hydraulic cam setup
new primary chain
hayden m6 tensioner
new alternator rotor (twice)
new tires (front and rear)
new brake pads
I have a thundermax, and the afr seems to be pretty close to where I have it set. It feels like a pulsing vibration. It's almost like one cylinder is running better than the other, but I measured about 210psi ccp in both cylinders and the bike runs like a bat out of hell. My crankshaft has .003 tir (same as before the gear drive). I don't know where else to look. The bike vibrates most at around 52 mph in 4th gear. Similar rpms in other gears do it, too, but that seems to be the speed I stay at most. It goes away if the bike is in neutral or if I pull the clutch. If I leave the bike in gear and shut off the ignition, it will vibrate the same when it passes through those rpms. It feels like it does it all rpms, but it's by far the worst around what I estimate to be 2600rpm. I don't know where else to look. If there was a dealer/indy around here I trusted, I would have taken it there long ago. Is there anywhere else I can look without splitting the cases or is it time to set it on fire?
95" (new se pistons, se jugs, intake, sensors, injectors, B lifters, andrews chromoly pushrods, baisley oil pressure spring)
new heads with a port and polish by Bean from Big Boyz
07+ hydraulic cam setup
new primary chain
hayden m6 tensioner
new alternator rotor (twice)
new tires (front and rear)
new brake pads
I have a thundermax, and the afr seems to be pretty close to where I have it set. It feels like a pulsing vibration. It's almost like one cylinder is running better than the other, but I measured about 210psi ccp in both cylinders and the bike runs like a bat out of hell. My crankshaft has .003 tir (same as before the gear drive). I don't know where else to look. The bike vibrates most at around 52 mph in 4th gear. Similar rpms in other gears do it, too, but that seems to be the speed I stay at most. It goes away if the bike is in neutral or if I pull the clutch. If I leave the bike in gear and shut off the ignition, it will vibrate the same when it passes through those rpms. It feels like it does it all rpms, but it's by far the worst around what I estimate to be 2600rpm. I don't know where else to look. If there was a dealer/indy around here I trusted, I would have taken it there long ago. Is there anywhere else I can look without splitting the cases or is it time to set it on fire?
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 7
When ever I run into vibration one thing I always, always check is the mounting. Be in a big assemley or little. Not just Motorcycles. Any rotating assemley must have a good mount that is doing like it should. bolts get loose, things crack. Check this area.
There are three engine mounting bolts on the B engine. One is behine (under) the right floorboard front mount. Sometime missed. Check all these.
Do you feel a buzz in the handlebars? Floorboards? Handle bars can be the devil.
Check the mounting bolts.
In fact check every bolt on the bike and make sure something is not loose.
I have added lead weights to the inside of mine. #4 shot mixed with a little silicone adhesive and put inside a sandwitch baggie. Spray the inside of the handlebars with silicone spray first makes it easy to put in and remove.
I had a bike once that the front wheel was out of balance. You can get harmonics if a wheel, lor both, is out of balance. This will come and go as the different diamenters move in and out of sync. Bike can get kind of bouncy also.
Another thing could be in the clutch basket area. Transmission sproket, belt tightness.
There are three engine mounting bolts on the B engine. One is behine (under) the right floorboard front mount. Sometime missed. Check all these.
Do you feel a buzz in the handlebars? Floorboards? Handle bars can be the devil.
Check the mounting bolts.
In fact check every bolt on the bike and make sure something is not loose.
I have added lead weights to the inside of mine. #4 shot mixed with a little silicone adhesive and put inside a sandwitch baggie. Spray the inside of the handlebars with silicone spray first makes it easy to put in and remove.
I had a bike once that the front wheel was out of balance. You can get harmonics if a wheel, lor both, is out of balance. This will come and go as the different diamenters move in and out of sync. Bike can get kind of bouncy also.
Another thing could be in the clutch basket area. Transmission sproket, belt tightness.
Last edited by Old Gunny; Sep 27, 2010 at 09:13 AM.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 192
From: Lakeland, FL
The buzz is in the handlebars, but I can feel it in the floorboards a bit, too. The thing is, the vibrations go away when I pull in the clutch. I believe that rules out the wheels and transmission.
The clutch hub bearing only spins when the lever is pulled, right?
The clutch hub bearing only spins when the lever is pulled, right?
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 192
From: Lakeland, FL
My handlebars are nice and tight. I had them off since this started, and there was no change. If the transmission sprocket was the culprit, wouldn't it continue to vibrate with the clutch disengaged?
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 7
Exhaust pipes, everything tight?
You have some CCP at 210#'s. What cam,? cause you are running 11-1 or more compression looks like
How do you feel about the ign. timing?
Pushrods adjustable?
Could something be touching in the rocker covers if a high lift cam? Maybe just sometime?
Hd B lifters not really too shiny.
For Heavy duty, which just abouyt all Harleys are really, Woods Lifters do a much better job.
Just some thoughts.
You have some CCP at 210#'s. What cam,? cause you are running 11-1 or more compression looks like
How do you feel about the ign. timing?
Pushrods adjustable?
Could something be touching in the rocker covers if a high lift cam? Maybe just sometime?
Hd B lifters not really too shiny.
For Heavy duty, which just abouyt all Harleys are really, Woods Lifters do a much better job.
Just some thoughts.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 192
From: Lakeland, FL
Everything is tight. I had this thing apart again over the weekend. All is the same. If I'm doing something wrong, I do it the same every time. lol! I have andrews 37's for cams, and I had the heads decked for 9.8:1. The engine is quiet. It doesn't sound like anything is bumping anything else. I've had the top end apart many times now, and I haven't seen any signs of damage or excessive wear. I'm to the point where I'd just ride it till it broke, but 30 minutes and my hands hurt and fingers go numb. It's not fun anymore. I rode it to the dragon about a month ago (4 hours each way), and I couldn't feel my fingers for days after. I got 46mpg, though.
I suspected the timing might have something to do with it, but it doesn't ping, and it vibrates with the ignition off. I've run it up to 60 and killed the power with the bike still in gear. Vibes are the same.
I suspected the timing might have something to do with it, but it doesn't ping, and it vibrates with the ignition off. I've run it up to 60 and killed the power with the bike still in gear. Vibes are the same.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 7
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Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
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Likes: 192
From: Lakeland, FL
worst thing about it - sometimes, it's smooth as glass. It was fine on the way to work this morning.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 7
On those engine mounts there is also a top mount. Needs to be tight and alined correctly.
On the late modles there is a self alining system. What ever you have, the proper alinement needs to be right. Older bikes use shims. Whatever it is I like to set it cold then warm it up some and reset it. Needs to be right or there will be stress and if loose, much vibration here at the top of the engine.
On the late modles there is a self alining system. What ever you have, the proper alinement needs to be right. Older bikes use shims. Whatever it is I like to set it cold then warm it up some and reset it. Needs to be right or there will be stress and if loose, much vibration here at the top of the engine.
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