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I got up early this morning and decided to put the new pipes on my bike. The old ones came off easy enough, the new ones went on easy enough. I was actually pretty proud of myself until I came back in the house and decided to check the manual just to make sure everything was ok. Yeah yeah I know...that's where I should have started.
The instruction sheet had no spec for torquing the exhaust bolts. It simply said "tighten the exhaust port flange nuts". So I did. I snugged'em up good. I mean, I didn't stand on the wrench or anything (and I did use the short driver!) but they are tight.
When I came in and looked at the manual it says 10 ft lbs. I am well over that. Double that? Triple that? I dunno.
Anyone know how critical this is? I assume that if I have to take it apart I'm going to need new gaskets?
Did you use new exhaust gaskets? If not, you have an excuse to pull the pipes, R/R the gaskets and get a do over. If you did use new exhaust gaskets and you pulled the flanges up evenly and don't have any leaks, forget about it; it's done.
what year bike? They pre 06 heads had a smaller exhaust port and much more chance of squishing your exhaust gasket into the port. It is an easy job to pull the header off and make sure the gasket is not interfering with exhaust flow. You could have had a really bad day if you would have snapped an exhaust stud off in the head. I think you owe it to yourself to pull them off and start over as punishement and an offering to the Almighty as penance for your sins LOL.
Also, don't forget that when your bike heats up there is going to be some expansion on those parts which will also increase the torque on those bolts. IF they are maybe triple what they should be you may be stretching your luck a bit too much. Try backing them off and re-torqueing them. Then see if they leak.
The exhaust gaksets have been compressed by the intial torque; particularly if the OEM gaskets. If you back them off and re-torque to a lesser torque, you are inviting leaks. Much smarter move would be to drop the pipes, install a set of the SE stainless steel gaskets that will not compress into the port and retorque to 60-80 in. lb. per spec.
If the exhaust is leaking, you will hear it and the engine will start popping on decel.
The exhaust gaksets have been compressed by the intial torque; particularly if the OEM gaskets. If you back them off and re-torque to a lesser torque, you are inviting leaks. Much smarter move would be to drop the pipes, install a set of the SE stainless steel gaskets that will on compress into the port and retorque to 60-80 in. lb. per spec.
If the exhaust is leaking, you will hear it and the engine will start popping on decel.
Thanks, I did use new gaskets on the install. I have already decided that the pipes are coming off and being reinstalled with new gaskets. It sucks to do this but it's January after all. Working on the bike is about the only method I have of playing with it anyway!
Ordering a Powervision today. I'm tearing everything back apart just as soon as I get the new map loaded.
Thanks, I did use new gaskets on the install. I have already decided that the pipes are coming off and being reinstalled with new gaskets. It sucks to do this but it's January after all. Working on the bike is about the only method I have of playing with it anyway!
Ordering a Powervision today. I'm tearing everything back apart just as soon as I get the new map loaded.
Personally, I think you're wasting your time unless you have a leak or you just want to play around. But that is only my opinion, you should do whatever makes you feel comfortable. I have never ever used a torque wrench on exhaust flanges and have never had an issue. In fact, after reading this thread I decided it would be a good time to go out and check the pipes on my bike. A 1/4" drive ratchet, a couple extensions, a 1/2 socket, and a little twist - good as new!
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