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I would bore the stock cylinders to 98", get the heads ported and decked so you have about a 9.5-9.8 compression and run a TW26 or SE204 cam. Also you didn't mention any air cleaner mod. If you don't have one, get a big sucker. The slip ons are fine, but you would get a little more power and better torque with a 2-1 exhaust. Having a shop bore the cylinders and match the pistons will be better than buying a "kit". This set up could get you into a high 90's for torque and over 100 if you use a better pipe. There are some other cam choices like the TW37 and S&S 510 that will definitely get you to the 100+ hp and torque, but won't be as friendly for touring like you want. They are still good down low, but they want a little more rpm's.
First thing on the list should be the H-D service manual; parts manual is very helpful as well. You will need some tools that you probably don't have but a lot of the "special" tools you hear about have work arounds.
Lots of choices but, IMHO, boring to 95"/98", pistons, street port head work, compression about 9.6-9.8, Andrews 37 or SE 204 cams ar proven combinations; the Andrews 26 would also work well, depending on how you ride. Did you install the SE A/C when you installed the slipons? If not, you need to upgrade the air filter. Since you are replacing cams, you should address the spring loaded tensioners while you are at it; there are several approaches, all viable but range in cost from about $50 to $400. Upgrade the inner cam bearings as well. You will need a fuel management system/tuner; talk to the local tuner and see what he likes to use.
In general terms; that's the package, increase displacement and compression and the breathing capacity of the engine and get the combination tuned. There are lots of variations on the package but the one above will make 100+TQ and mid 90s HP everytime.
If you are going to turn the wrenches, you can get the package above for about $2000 depending on where you buy the parts, what tuner you buy and what you pay for head work; could be more.
In the Texas heat, 9.6 cr with a set of 26's, 9.8 cr with 37's.
Get that constricted exhaust port opened, and a 1.900" intake valve.
Bore it to 98".
Dollar spent, vs power gained, is HUGE, especially if doing the work yourself.
Scott
I am looking at this from Axtell Sales - I like the idea of boring out my existing heads... Also thinking about the Arlen Ness Big Sucker - I want to stay stock looking with it.
While I have the exhaust off, I might as well do the 6 speed swap at the same time... Not sure if I want to go overdrive or full gearing. Maybe go stock Harley.
Wiesco has manufactured our proprietary pistons,(comes with a complete Cometic gasket set) for close to 5 years now, that allow us to bore 88-98", and 96-107", using your OEM cylinders.
Shipped to New Zealand, Nebraska, California, NYC area, and Alberta, Can this week alone.
Scott
I am looking at this from Axtell Sales - I like the idea of boring out my existing heads... Also thinking about the Arlen Ness Big Sucker - I want to stay stock looking with it.
While I have the exhaust off, I might as well do the 6 speed swap at the same time... Not sure if I want to go overdrive or full gearing. Maybe go stock Harley.
There are two forum sponsors that will bore your cylinders, fit pistons and set ring gap. If you are looking at Axtell, you should consider the forum sponsors as well; might save some money.
Not sure what removing the exhaust has to do with the decision to do the six speed swap or what you mean by "overdrive vs full gearing". Any six speed you choose with the exception of the Baker DD6 will be an overdrive transmission. Baker is the best but will cost a bit more. Not sure why you feel the need to go to a six speed. I ride two older five speeds and while I must admit that there are times on a 500 mile day that I would use a sixth gear if I had one, I have never been able to work out the cost benefit in my head; just don't see the added value, but that's just me.
You are happy to spend $2000 on a six speed but choke on $400-$500 for a fuel management system? Good luck with your project.
just an F Y I -- HQs matches the pistons to the cylinders the only one I don't think does this is S&S but not sure --
Originally Posted by JohnC FXDX
I would bore the stock cylinders to 98", get the heads ported and decked so you have about a 9.5-9.8 compression and run a TW26 or SE204 cam. Also you didn't mention any air cleaner mod. If you don't have one, get a big sucker. The slip ons are fine, but you would get a little more power and better torque with a 2-1 exhaust. Having a shop bore the cylinders and match the pistons will be better than buying a "kit". This set up could get you into a high 90's for torque and over 100 if you use a better pipe. There are some other cam choices like the TW37 and S&S 510 that will definitely get you to the 100+ hp and torque, but won't be as friendly for touring like you want. They are still good down low, but they want a little more rpm's.
There are two forum sponsors that will bore your cylinders, fit pistons and set ring gap. If you are looking at Axtell, you should consider the forum sponsors as well; might save some money.
Not sure what removing the exhaust has to do with the decision to do the six speed swap or what you mean by "overdrive vs full gearing". Any six speed you choose with the exception of the Baker DD6 will be an overdrive transmission. Baker is the best but will cost a bit more. Not sure why you feel the need to go to a six speed. I ride two older five speeds and while I must admit that there are times on a 500 mile day that I would use a sixth gear if I had one, I have never been able to work out the cost benefit in my head; just don't see the added value, but that's just me.
You are happy to spend $2000 on a six speed but choke on $400-$500 for a fuel management system? Good luck with your project.
I didn't say I choked on the fuel management system - the prices just took me by surprise. The unit that I was interested in was the thundermax ecm and runs ~ $900 but it is probably overkill to add O2 sensors to a 2004 bike. The real question to be asked is do you get the better value out of a reputable dyno / tune?
I was being a little tounge in cheek referencing the exhaust - the point is that the exhaust needs to be removed for both jobs, so while you have it torn down - "might as well". But really, while I am comfortable doing the top end job, I am a little less comfortable with the transmission... If I choose to do it, I will probably send it over to my indi mechanic.
Do I need a 6 speed trans??? I would probably ride it for a while before making that final decision - but it would be nice!
Last edited by bradleys; Feb 18, 2012 at 12:11 PM.
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