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The nipples will be the end of the bike till you find the right guy to get you back to the spot you removed them
not a novice thing do not listen to internet blowhards - they dont know anything - we do them but in the 2 weeks i am doing this since the 60s i cringe when i go after it - i have seen the mess that really happens -
note — they make over size threads on a stock size nipple but no tap - what does that tell you - they suck comes to mind
and dont forget the 100 bucks in tools you will use once
Last edited by johnjzjz; Jul 22, 2022 at 07:19 AM.
I’ve got everything apart and now waiting for the new seals.
After I get the those installed, bubble tested , and button up I’ll get it another go!
will keep you posted with fingers crossed!
thanks,
s
Everything thing that I read said to do a psi test to see if the intake manifold is leaking.
I could find on YouTube and some forums said ( close both in take valves and with a blocked plate and air source push up to 15psi and let sit for a min and spray soap on manifold and check for bubbles.
the only thing is all four valves, two intake and two exhaust would have to be close to make the combustion chamber a sealed chamber
to hold 15 psi for a min, and I don’t see how that can be done?
I must be missing something or what is meant to do is close both intake valves and just keep constant pressure on the cylinders to check for leaks.
I’m opened for ideas / corrections here!
Everything thing that I read said to do a psi test to see if the intake manifold is leaking.
I could find on YouTube and some forums said ( close both in take valves and with a blocked plate and air source push up to 15psi and let sit for a min and spray soap on manifold and check for bubbles.
the only thing is all four valves, two intake and two exhaust would have to be close to make the combustion chamber a sealed chamber
to hold 15 psi for a min, and I don’t see how that can be done?
I must be missing something or what is meant to do is close both intake valves and just keep constant pressure on the cylinders to check for leaks.
I’m opened for ideas / corrections here!
Loosen the tappet adjusters to allow the valves to remain closed. Then run the test. That will also tell you if you have valves leaking or blow by on the rings.
You're not putting air in the cylinders, just the intake manifold up to the point of the intake valves which will be closed blocking air from entering the cylinders. Because both cylinders fire close to each other there should be a time when both intakes are closed without doing anything to the engine.
One cylinder would be on the power stroke and the other on compression.
Seriously, I have done the test at least a dozen times, never even thought about valves being closed etc. With a regulator and a good air source, get her up to 14.5 PSI and add the soapy water. If somehow you manage to get the motor in the wrong spot and the air is just blowing through, put her in third gear and rotate the rear tire until it stops. But chances are you will be fine the first time. I do not ever recall having to rotate the motor to get the needed seal. Maybe I did once, it really is not a thing.
Do NOT take anything apart or adjust anything for the test, just rotate the motor if needed. Good luck.
The new Peek seals I ordered should be in this week, so I will most definitely will go at it again when I get the intake manifold back on.
So that’s the trick, just leave the motor as it is and rotate the motor to get a good seal. I did try that and still had issues but try try again.
just hoping it’s me not doing it correctly and it isn’t something more seriously ( fingers cross )
all this is great info thanks!
I’ll post my results ( good or bad ) when I get intake tested!
If you get them from Enfield Racing, they come with instructions
They add this installation note on their web site:
INSTALLATION NOTES:
Follow standard installation procedures in addition to the following points.
Do not over tighten; use approximately 1/2 of the normal torque on the nuts. Although not necessary, you may use a removable thread locking compound (blue) on the nuts only. Use a standard carburetor support. Leak test seal with 15 PSI pressure. Re-torque after several hours run time.
clarity
Last edited by tasturbo86; Jul 26, 2022 at 07:37 AM.
Reason: clarity
The bezel side needs to be in the right direction, which I currently am forgetting. I recall bezel to the nut, flat side to the cylinder.
Hopefully John will jump on and respond for sure.
Edit: Found my response from John when I asked him last year. "The nut has the other side of the bevel. The flat end sits on the head spicket with the threads."
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