UL cam cover question
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 8,054
Likes: 8,077
From: Canada
Looks nice.
Mine are a snug fit (but not hammer worthy) even after being in the engine for a century I got them out without a puller - shop manual shows a puller to remove them but hacks pry on the thin lips of the later blocks and break them off.
Run some 2000 or 3000 grit paper in the holes and around the blocks so they slide in.
Mine are a snug fit (but not hammer worthy) even after being in the engine for a century I got them out without a puller - shop manual shows a puller to remove them but hacks pry on the thin lips of the later blocks and break them off.
Run some 2000 or 3000 grit paper in the holes and around the blocks so they slide in.
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Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 62
Likes: 14
From: California
I’ll tune up the holes with a precision rod and 2000 grit until it’s a snug but not a hammer fit.
The whole motor and bike is repop, I’m not going for a authentic representation but rather my take on a Flathead bobber, it will definitely feel and look period correct with painted wheels and springer, car guys call them “restomod”.
I’m going to deal with the whole title issues when the bike is done, I’m keeping good paperwork on all the key components like cases,
tranny and frame.
The whole motor and bike is repop, I’m not going for a authentic representation but rather my take on a Flathead bobber, it will definitely feel and look period correct with painted wheels and springer, car guys call them “restomod”.
I’m going to deal with the whole title issues when the bike is done, I’m keeping good paperwork on all the key components like cases,
tranny and frame.
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