yeah, let us know what she does when you try to fire her up. It's always cool to hear about what other ppl are working on.

 

If you just want to see if the engine will run, you can disconnect the generator and use any 6 volt source (such as 6volt battery charger or even a 6 volt "lantern battery") I have sen this done many years ago on small air cooled engines.

 

Hi gunnut,
Yes, I would be interested in something like this. I have a couple 6V power sources which will work. I have the wiring harness on order but at this time there is none, so i am interested in just being successful in seeing a spark at the plugs.

I tried wiring up the battery: pos to front of coil, neg to frame, rear of coil to points, and grounding the spark plug against the engine. Then tried to kick the starter to see if there is any spark. I didnt see any. Maybe its just a bad coil, i have a good one on the way, but am i missing anything fundamental with what im doing? I think this should work right?

I tested and I am getting 6V to the points

 

let me rephrase that... since i dont have a wiring harness yet what would the simplest way of wiring the engine to run. It doesnt need the generator in the system in fact i would prefer it out.

thanks for the help

 

Don't change a thing! I'd recommend patience esp. with all the wiring that goes to this 'n that then to try to jumper it. Battery acts as a "load" for the charging system, also, and could cause components to burn out. I have MMI Early Model class for the next two days if you need a parts look-up or service manual info within reason; still have two days of projects to do, too, but will do my best to get the info though (usu sit around for 1.5 hours after getting done); sounds like you could use the "coil test" & will look up tonight.

 

The distrib/circuit breaker might have to be timed (if it was removed from the engine ?) The points (Narrow lobe ) should be set at .022 If you have 6 volts to the points close the points use your finger to open the points you should see spark and hear the plugs fire If you have this the coil is probably ok and timing could be an issue

 

Did this last night on a Pan... as stated above but can use either the narrow or the broader lobe of the CB cam to set the .022" gap with slight drag on the feeler gauge. To set the timing advance, disconnect the black wire (or one closest to the engine) from the coil and hook up a multimeter on OHMS with the audible beeper on (save you from having to look!): red to coil wire and black lead to engine ground. Audible multimeter noise should stop sounding when at retard (full forward on the left hand grip). Setting the advance helps with the kick-back when starting but I feel it this morning!

 

george and rob,
Thanks for all the advice! Will take a look into all of this this weekend hopefully. But sounds like youre suggesting I dont really move on until I get the wiring harness and components all wired together properly which could be another two weeks or so until it arrives. Unless there is a reliable way to temporarily wire this all safely and correctly in the meantime? I probably have plenty other things to keep me busy until then but getting a little antsy to see if she'll run.

 

Not sure what wiring harness is missing but I won't recommend it since everything is pretty much interconected and may not work anyways. The battery acts as a load resister for the charging system and could cause excessive voltage to the wiring and electrical components. The battery is a 6V HD part number 66006-29F which is still available from Harley but probably have to order it. I looked in the service manual but I guess parts were cheap enough back then so no REAL testing except: 1) check battery condition; the coil will not operate properly with a near discharged battery. If headlight and display lights illuminate, probably okay. 2) try new spark plugs as soot or any other similar will cause high plug resistance and the older bikes didn't put out a huge plug spark 3) inspect circuit breaker points for corrosion, gap of .022", or replace the condensor 4) install new coil. The only test I know (which may have questionable results) is that with the points closed, the coil-to-CB will have battery voltage going to it; with the points open the plugs fire, so there will be no voltage at the terminal. I looked up the following in the HD parts book (from 1930-45) so they may not be applicable but may be cross-referenced by these OEM's in the V-Twin Catalog: condensor=1629-30, CB points=1569-30A, spark cables=1596-30 (long) & 1597-30 (short), coil-to-CB wire=1613-30B, 2-brush generator (w/o drive gear)=1501-30 {not sure what you have since a lot of people did a three-to-two brush conversion=service bulletin #418}, generator overhaul kit=1503-40, generator cut-out relay=4786-38, ignition coil 31602-30 (superceded 1722-30A) and spark plugs can be ND M-17 or Champion D-14 or 16's (HD had five different P/N= S/P #1 through 5 were 37-09A, B, C, D, E, and F (racing); the WL's at school have either the Champion & ND's). A really good book to buy for your restoration is called "How to Restore Your Harley-Davidson"-by Bruce Palmer III for $39.95 US: it sounds like a simple "how-to" type book but it is a guide to how to properly restore and it's packed with each model year's information all the way to 1903. Check it out and you'll go WOW! If you have any special requests for look-ups meanwhile, send me a PM within 18 hours as I have my last day (FINALLY!) of school so I can look it up for you prior to graduation Friday afternoon.