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Replacing Brake Rotor/Disc Screws

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Old Feb 7, 2024 | 09:45 PM
  #1  
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Default Replacing Brake Rotor/Disc Screws

I'm replacing the Brake Rotor/Disc screws with Gold Anodized rotor screws. I have two questions:

1) Should I use Red Loctite? Surprisingly, I can not find anything in the service manual about using Loctite on these screws.

2) Can I just replace one screw at a time, going around the hub. Or is there a particular order for replacing these. The manual states to just going around the hub tightening them
 
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Old Feb 8, 2024 | 01:09 AM
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Nevermind, found this under the Harley parts: Place a few drops of LoctiteŽ 243 (blue) on the threads of the new chrome screws from the kit. Install the brake disc using ONLY the new chrome screws. Torque the screws to 40 ft-lbs (54 Nm).

This is for part #46647-05, which states Rear Hardware, but shows a picture of a Front Floating Rotor on a bike.

But, I will use Blue Loctite and I remember from the service manual that the torque setting is less for the front rotor.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2024 | 05:50 AM
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Bolts on the rear are 3/8" front are 5/16" two different torque specs.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2024 | 09:31 AM
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I just installed a Lyndall Rotor with their titanium bolts. Because they're titanium torque for the front rotor was 11-16 ft lbs and the instructions said Red Locktite. I don't believe in Red for anything you intent to remove in the future, (even with heat). These bolts also being 5/16" was the reason I used Blue instead of red.

I use Blue Loctite on my snowmobile for suspension and steering components, a sled sees more abuse than my motorcycle and I've never had something come loose.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2024 | 03:38 PM
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Be damn the torpedoes, I run red lock tight on rotors, period.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2024 | 04:28 AM
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I use red locktite on the rotor bolts but just one small drop is all you need.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2024 | 04:45 AM
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Be sure about the grade of your bolts. Some replacement stuff like your talking about is static display.

Brake rotors need one line of removable grade usually called blue grade Loctite.

Put one line on the bolt. Not in the hole.

The drive sprocket cog pulley uses red permeant grade Loctite. Takes a little heat to break it's bond.

Take them all out. The rotors have a centering bore to hub. Run them all up snug in clean threads. Remove them all and do the one line of Loctite. Run slug again. Tighten them with your torque wrench cross fashion like doing a tire/wheel on your car.

The call out for those bolts are new replacements bolts. They come with a dry coat pre-applied epoxy glue type of locking compound. It's not Loctite. Loctite dries in the absence of air.

That's why you probably don't see a Loctite call out.

If you don't have Loctite primer, give it 24 hours just for warm fuzzy fillings.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Feb 19, 2024 at 04:53 AM.
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Old Feb 19, 2024 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by jake24lt
Bolts on the rear are 3/8" front are 5/16" 8mm two different torque specs.
Glenn didn't mention which bike or which wheels. If his signature is up to date and he's riding a 2017 RGS with stock wheels, this means he has Enforcer wheels and the front rotors us 8 mm, NOT 5/16".

The stock HD bolts come with a green threadlock patch on them. As mentioned previously, the chrome HD bolts do not come with a threadlock patch on them and they call for blue Loctite in the installation instructions.

Front rotor mounting bolts:
  • HD P/N 41500020
  • 8mm-1.25 x 30mm L
  • Torque: 16-24 ft-lbs in a cross-wise pattern
  • Torx Pan head machine screw
  • Class 10.9
  • Qty. 5 per rotor
Rear rotor mounting bolts:
  • HD P/N 43567-92
  • 3/8"-16 x 1" L
  • Torque: 30-45 ft-lbs in a cross-wise pattern
  • Torx Pan head machine screw
  • Grade 8
  • Qty. 5
 

Last edited by BrandonSmith; Feb 19, 2024 at 07:44 AM.
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Old Feb 24, 2024 | 02:48 AM
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@BrandonSmith Thanks, yea riding a 17' RGS

@Jackie Paper Thanks for the info

I returned the gold anodized bolts that I bought and stopped by the dealer and bought OEM bolts. I'll paint the heads and tops of the bushings myself. A lot safer.
 
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