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I have been trying to put some adjustable passenger footpegs on the E'Glide. I don't know what in the heck they used to put the bolt that holds the floorboard in, but I'm starting to think it's friggin' welded or something. I'm a very strong SOB and I couldn't budge it with a long handled hex key. I sprayed it with WD40 last night right before I walked away, as the framing hammer nearby was looking mighty nice. I've tried a couple other things, but I finally took my Milwaukee Heavy Duty 1/2 inch drill and put a straight hex key in the chuck. I've got the side handle on the drill and I braced myself pretty good. IT SNAPPED THE FREAKIN" DRIVE GOING TO THE DRILL CHUCK! WTF? The adjustable footpegs say that when you go to put their bolt in, torque it to 15 ft pounds. There's no way that the original G'Damn bolt is in there at 15 ft lbs. Unless someone here has an idea, I'll have to swing by the Dealer (which is a good place, by the way.) and have them see if they can take it off. Has anyone else run into this? Any solutions? Gotta go now and get a new drill. [:@]
My guess is that you are having trouble breaking loose the semi-permenent loctite. Try heating it up with a torch to maybe 250-300 degrees ..... should break loose.
Heat is your Friend, like mentioned above. Grab a propane torch and heat that ****** for 5 minutes straight. It'll melt out the loctite and allow you to remove that bolt. I littlerly just had that bolt out and put back in 15 minutes ago as I had to pull the outer primary for a litlle gasket R&R.
Once it's out, clean it good and just put a single drop of blue loctite on it when you resinstall it. It'll make it alot easier next time.
I pulled my passenger foot pegsoff about a month ago to install some chrome covers, they were tight butnothing like you are describing. I didn't use any loctite when I installed them back on the bike as there wasn't any on the bolts to start with and my instructions said to torque them to 30 ft lbs. and said nothing about loctite.My bolts also had a lock washer on them.
Round 2: Got a new drill in exchange for the other one. Took the advice here and grabbed a torch and heated for a few minutes even after I saw smoke curling up from behind. Inserted the key with the new drill, and snapped the drive on that one!Heated the pr!ck even longer,put in a handled hex key and, being P.O.'d at this point, turned that mf'er till the long key twisted out of shape from the handle on down. NOTHING! Holy crap! Let's see: a realitivly simple procedure that should've taken me a total of around 25 minutes max has now tallied up to almost 3 hours of aggravation including 2 broken heavy duty drills, one trip to the hardware store with another to follow. Something is just not right here. I'm going to call it quits on this for now, as I swear if I go back out in that garage, I'll heave everything in the street after I take a sledge hammer to it. Jeeezus! Thanks for the advice anyhow guys. It's gonna have to be a trip down to the dealer to see what they come up with. I've got to hit the weight pile in the basement to blow off steam, later. [sm=headbang.gif]
I ran intothat problem with the drivers side floorboard I tried heat WD40 >>the hex bolt wouldnt give so I had cut the bolt off between the frame& the floorboard bracket with a Sawzall>>being that the OEM bolts have a lockwasher on them I just use neversieze on them and I havent had a problemtaking them off anymore>>>by the way I even tried a 16inch pipe wrench with no luck>>>> good luck to you
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Update: Went to the dealer and they took it in the shop and got it off with an impact gun. It didn't have locktite on it, but had a lockwasher. Even the repair guy said it "Was really in there tight." There's a freakin' understatement.
make sure your Allen... u sure it ain't a torx bit??? has a lot of leverage..and IS SEATED FULLY INTO POSITION, then lean into it.. it should budge then when it does.. take it off
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