Discharged battery
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 150
From: Michigan
....the OP has a history of nonsense posts and claims of multiple bikes he doesn't own. You won't hear from him again in this thread. I think folks are just growing tired of it.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 470
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From: Sedro Woolley, Wa
I've found on these newer bikes it's almost necessary to just leave them on the tender. I can get back from a ride and toss the tender on and within an hour it's topped off. 3 weeks later plug it back in and within 2 hours it's usually topped off . I've also found keeping the plastic puck under the side stand helps the drain quite a bit. My Boulevard would drain a battery in 3 to 4 months or so of non riding, my Street would drain a battery in a week but it had a short in the battery. Sporty even with the security system seems to do okay but I leave the fob with the bike in the garage in case it has to be moved so it won't disrupt the alarm. So if I know I'm not going to ride for a while I'll just leave it on the tender full time .
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From: Carlsbad, CA
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From: Michigan
Batteries, like people can be quite different in how they will take and hold a charge. Battery "tenders" are not "chargers" and depending on the type of bike you have, how old your battery is and even the temperature can play a part in your battery' ability to maintain a charge.
Before putting your bike away for any length of time, put a 2AMP charger on it and let it a good charge before switching over to a tender.
Larger touring bikes with clocks, alarm systems, etc. will pull more power than smaller bikes but a tender keeps mine charged through the winter (Nov-mid-Apr) with no issues. You can reduce the "pull" on the battery by simply disconnecting the negative battery cable at the batter and pulling it away from the battery post, then hook the tender directly to the battery using clips if that's easier for you.
My friend had a '10 Ultra and he couldn't keep the battery charged using a tender. We got the batter charged enough to get it home (from storage)
and he took it to the dealership and to make a long story short they told him that it was his radio that was causing the problem so he had them rebuild it.
Bike started fine but the radio wouldn't work so before leaving the dealer they determined that they had discovered a negative cable (?) disconnected somewhere.
They claim to have fixed that so he took the bike home and hooked it up to the battery tender and a few weeks later, that "new" battery was totally dead!
I kept telling him to try disconnecting the negative cable and hook the tender to the battery using clips and we'd go from there.
Later, he called me and said that he thought that he had found his problem (and he did). It turned out to be that the fuse in the pigtail that connects the battery tender to the battery was "blown"!
One new battery totally ruined and the second may be if he cannot get it to hold a charge. ALWAYS CHECK THE CHEAP, SIMPLE STUFF FIRST!
Before putting your bike away for any length of time, put a 2AMP charger on it and let it a good charge before switching over to a tender.
Larger touring bikes with clocks, alarm systems, etc. will pull more power than smaller bikes but a tender keeps mine charged through the winter (Nov-mid-Apr) with no issues. You can reduce the "pull" on the battery by simply disconnecting the negative battery cable at the batter and pulling it away from the battery post, then hook the tender directly to the battery using clips if that's easier for you.
My friend had a '10 Ultra and he couldn't keep the battery charged using a tender. We got the batter charged enough to get it home (from storage)
and he took it to the dealership and to make a long story short they told him that it was his radio that was causing the problem so he had them rebuild it.
Bike started fine but the radio wouldn't work so before leaving the dealer they determined that they had discovered a negative cable (?) disconnected somewhere.
They claim to have fixed that so he took the bike home and hooked it up to the battery tender and a few weeks later, that "new" battery was totally dead!
I kept telling him to try disconnecting the negative cable and hook the tender to the battery using clips and we'd go from there.
Later, he called me and said that he thought that he had found his problem (and he did). It turned out to be that the fuse in the pigtail that connects the battery tender to the battery was "blown"!
One new battery totally ruined and the second may be if he cannot get it to hold a charge. ALWAYS CHECK THE CHEAP, SIMPLE STUFF FIRST!
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From: Olean, NY
Last edited by Cygnusx51; Mar 22, 2018 at 10:41 AM.
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From: Aurora, CO
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I see that your thread was moved into forum purgatory. Now, that's interesting. I've taken your advice and have reported the three most recent postings of this fool. I will report future ones as well. Thanks for the suggestion, sir.