EZ Outs are USELESS!
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,315
Likes: 1,663
From: Tampa
EZ Outs are USELESS!
There, I said it!
Rant on\
Seriously though, who ever thought they could extract a stuck bolt using something that's SMALLER in diameter than the broken bolt to begin with? Unless it's made out of Unobtanium, that's gonna break too... Oh, and by the way, center a drill bit perfectly into the broken bolt to give the teeny-*** EZ out somewhere to bite down... F#$king snake oil, right up there with Marvel Mystery Oil and polishing your combustion chamber and exhaust port.
Everyone, raise your hand if you've ever successfully extracted a perfectly normal exhaust stud? It was a bitch, right? Two nuts, butted up tight to each other then slowly backing the stud out without allowing both nuts to spin on the stud. That's because IT'S AN INTERFERENCE THREAD pitch. You think a pissy little EZ Out is gonna win that battle?
Rant off/
The only time I was successful with an exhaust stud replacement was by removing the head, chucking it up into a vice and drilling the old stud out with a 27/64" drill bit. Then I tapped for 1/2" x 13 and bottomed out an aluminum bolt (with JB Weld for loctite), then cut flush with head casting. Last step was tapping for the 5/16" exhaust stud and installed with PLENTY of red loctite. I suppose I could have done the Helicoil/Timesert thing, but one aluminum bolt with the rest of the tools on hand was way cheaper than a damn helicoil kit.
Rant on\
Seriously though, who ever thought they could extract a stuck bolt using something that's SMALLER in diameter than the broken bolt to begin with? Unless it's made out of Unobtanium, that's gonna break too... Oh, and by the way, center a drill bit perfectly into the broken bolt to give the teeny-*** EZ out somewhere to bite down... F#$king snake oil, right up there with Marvel Mystery Oil and polishing your combustion chamber and exhaust port.
Everyone, raise your hand if you've ever successfully extracted a perfectly normal exhaust stud? It was a bitch, right? Two nuts, butted up tight to each other then slowly backing the stud out without allowing both nuts to spin on the stud. That's because IT'S AN INTERFERENCE THREAD pitch. You think a pissy little EZ Out is gonna win that battle?
Rant off/
The only time I was successful with an exhaust stud replacement was by removing the head, chucking it up into a vice and drilling the old stud out with a 27/64" drill bit. Then I tapped for 1/2" x 13 and bottomed out an aluminum bolt (with JB Weld for loctite), then cut flush with head casting. Last step was tapping for the 5/16" exhaust stud and installed with PLENTY of red loctite. I suppose I could have done the Helicoil/Timesert thing, but one aluminum bolt with the rest of the tools on hand was way cheaper than a damn helicoil kit.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 9,605
Likes: 20,752
From: Globe AZ
In some applications, easyouts are useful. Mostly the application is pissing off the user and causing cursing. I've always had better luck with a lefty drill bit, and sometimes getting lucky that it grabs and spins out. More often than not, it drills out the offending piece and you retap threads as appropriate. There is a reason I have a few endmills on hand when doing exhaust studs..... they will cut through an easyout, and also will give a flat surface so a drill wont walk.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,887
Likes: 1,059
From: SE Washington
Ummm. Easy outs have saved my bacon many many times. Can't stress enough, the importance of proper prep and drill angle... Almost as important as quality tools, penetrating oil and the patience of a monk.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 3,072
Likes: 1,727
From: Dallas, Texas
Exhaust studs are a bitch to get out. Ya got a steel stud in an aluminum head. From heat cycling they more or less weld themselves together guaranteeing EZ Out breakage. Best off to take it to a reputable Machine Shop, they have all the tools to do it without the aggravation.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,826
Likes: 87
From: Cookson, Ok
Using an Ez-out is like an art that takes care and patience. First thing is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF for penetrating oil, then using a small, sharp center punch to start the hole in the exact center of the broken stud or bolt. The broken part is rarely flat, so tilting the punch and gently pecking and adjusting the angle will get you closer to the center. Follow up with a good whack when the center is as close as the eye can tell. I start out with a #1 center drill and follow with a 3/32" left hand drill. Drill all the way through and depending on the condition that caused the bolt/stud to break, this may do the trick. If not, I use a square Ez-out and give it a shot. I NEVER use spiral Ez-outs. Turn it til just before it breaks, LOL. If that doesn't get it, squirt some of that penetrating oil in the hole and start stepping up in sizes with LH drills and square Ez-outs til you get close to the minor diameter of the thread. After that, you're into the realm of a different world that will require some machining skills.
Here's a link to some square Ez-outs. In my early days in a repair machine shop, I learned to grind my own out of a HSS tool blank. Over the years, I broke WAY more spirals than squares.
Here's a link to some square Ez-outs. In my early days in a repair machine shop, I learned to grind my own out of a HSS tool blank. Over the years, I broke WAY more spirals than squares.
Last edited by Lakerat; Feb 11, 2019 at 08:54 AM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 157,524
Likes: 57,081
From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
I gave up on Easy Outs years ago ... I've had remarkable success with the "splined type" ( Snap-On ) ... Rigid makes them also ... Of course you can't just jam them in there and rage on them .
https://www.toolup.com/ridgid-35585-...SABEgL_4fD_BwE
https://www.toolup.com/ridgid-35585-...SABEgL_4fD_BwE
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 21,736
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From: Driftless Area
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