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Part 1 question
Was blowing ECM fuse under hard load (WOT about 5k rpm). Now won't start due to not getting spark and fuel pump not coming on,...both of which are directly on the ECM circuit. Power comes on and bike turns over. Coil and charging system checked. I checked for nicked,pinched wires, bad grounds, etc.. Fuses and relays are good. I'm trying to rule out a bad ECM before bringing to dealer. Of course, I could have overlooked a bad wire/ground.
I'm getting a LOT of codes at the gauge. Not looking for someone to read each, as I know where to find the code meanings,..but I'm wondering if I really have all these troubles or is this an indication of a bad/fried ECU?
P codes - 0107, 0113, 0122, 0261, 0263, 1001, 1003, 1004.
S codes - 61121, 61122, U1016
SP - NONE
6 - NO RSP
Part 2 question
If it is a bad ECU, is it plug in a go? Or does the dealer need to "program" it? My bike has a flash tune (dyno tune) from an indy and he has my map saved so he can load it for me. I hate to pay the dealer to do stuff I can do myself.
The ECM fuse is a busy circuit once the system relay energizes. You need to find where the problem is that's taking out the fuse. Check the wiring for a rubbed spot that will grd when under high vibration.
I don't have any Sportster books but U1016 is Loss of ECM serial Data and would be the first of all those DTC's on the priority list. The touring manuals say to check the ECM grd first then Check that power from kill switch is present at ECM. Next check serial data wire from Speedo, TSm and Tack to ecm looking for any open.
I would guess as a minimum the VIN would need to be entered. To be legitimate (friendly, genuine, honest) for next owner the existing mileage would also need to be programmed in.
Some codes activate when the sensor/circuit that they support relies on another system that fails, sort of a cascading set of codes. Your best bet is to find an indy that has experience in troubleshooting, preferably one with a Pico scanner. They will pinpoint the cause instead of throwing parts at in in hopes that they find the issue.
The indy near me sees a lot of these issues that dealers take to him because they (dealer) doesn't have the experience or in-house skill to troubleshoot. It is cheaper for some dealers to outsource these issues to a third party than to hire someone to deal with them. They make more money in quick $500 oil changes than to spend hours trying to find a pinched wire or faulty ground on an used bike.
The ECM fuse is a busy circuit once the system relay energizes. You need to find where the problem is that's taking out the fuse. Check the wiring for a rubbed spot that will grd when under high vibration.
I don't have any Sportster books but U1016 is Loss of ECM serial Data and would be the first of all those DTC's on the priority list. The touring manuals say to check the ECM grd first then Check that power from kill switch is present at ECM. Next check serial data wire from Speedo, TSm and Tack to ecm looking for any open.
I did not clear the codes. Didn't think that would be a good idea because if I bring it in for service, they won't see the codes....right?
I'm going to pull the wires out of the bars again, maybe I missed something. I did recently change bars but I'm prob a few hundred miles in. But maybe something wiggled loose.
You said "Check that power from kill switch is present at ECM". Can I just use a test light for this? I've never had the ECM out/exposed so will be new territory.
I would guess as a minimum the VIN would need to be entered. To be legitimate (friendly, genuine, honest) for next owner the existing mileage would also need to be programmed in.
I just called the dealer. They said that only a dealer has the tools to program a new ECM to the bike (mate it to the VIN, etc). I was hoping that I could just have my indy do the install because then he could also re-flash my tune in one shot.
Because I'm a skeptic,...I'm wondering if only dealers have the ability to install a new ECM. I do not have a security system. Is there not some sort of sequence I can do to install myself? I don't have the Electrical Diagnostic Manual. Once will be on order shortly!
If you've written down the DTC's you will have the list to show the Tech at the dealer.
I wouldn't tear into the the bars just yet, I don't see where that wiring has anything to do with the ECM fuse. Look at the ECM fuse and you'll see it goes straight to the ECM with BE/GY wire. It also goes to the system relay and with Ign and Kill switch on powers the Y/GN to the Fuel pump, Ign Coils and fuel injectors . So find where either the BE/GY or Y/GN finds ground when your reved up. The ECM provides ground for the system relay coil and I don't know what the protocol would be to provide the grd but I'm suspecting it the health check done on the serial data system.
Yes you can check to see if you have power on the BK/W at 13 at ecm and 31 on BE/GY with a test light but I'd encourage you to use a multimeter and check for low resistance between ecm 28 and frame grd.
If it were mine I'd keep notes on DTC's and clear them. If it still won't start I'd disconnect the battery for a few minutes and hope that may reset serial data. Connect power see if it will start and recheck DTC's. Check both wires associated with ECM fuse. Check to see if you have power to System relay with Ign and kill switch on at BK/W wire.
If you've written down the DTC's you will have the list to show the Tech at the dealer.
I wouldn't tear into the the bars just yet, I don't see where that wiring has anything to do with the ECM fuse. Look at the ECM fuse and you'll see it goes straight to the ECM with BE/GY wire. It also goes to the system relay and with Ign and Kill switch on powers the Y/GN to the Fuel pump, Ign Coils and fuel injectors . So find where either the BE/GY or Y/GN finds ground when your reved up. The ECM provides ground for the system relay coil and I don't know what the protocol would be to provide the grd but I'm suspecting it the health check done on the serial data system.
Yes you can check to see if you have power on the BK/W at 13 at ecm and 31 on BE/GY with a test light but I'd encourage you to use a multimeter and check for low resistance between ecm 28 and frame grd.
If it were mine I'd keep notes on DTC's and clear them. If it still won't start I'd disconnect the battery for a few minutes and hope that may reset serial data. Connect power see if it will start and recheck DTC's. Check both wires associated with ECM fuse. Check to see if you have power to System relay with Ign and kill switch on at BK/W wire.
Bill
Awesome feedback! I have my homework for the weekend!
I mentioned pulling the wires from the bars because you mentioned checking power from the kill switch to the ECM. Maybe when I was yanking wires through the bars something happened to the wire. I don't see how I could nick a wire with that thick plastic sleeve over them all but I don't know. I always use plenty lube as well..... If you think that's a waste of time, I'll start elsewhere (your points above). I'll at least check that I reinserted the pins back into the deutsch connectors properly.
When bike running (when it does),..ECM blows at WOT = overloading circuit for some reason. But when I replace fuse and bike doesn't start it's because my coil and fuel pump aren't getting juice. Would be nice if my scoot would make ups it's mind!
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this many trouble codes? 2 part question
If you think that's a waste of time, I'll start elsewhere (your points above). I'll at least check that I reinserted the pins back into the deutsch connectors properly.