Heres what was done to my 2005 Road king before taking delivery.

Screaming Eagle Stroker Flywheel and Rod
Screaming eagle heads part# 16925-02A
Crane evo roller rockers
Se Rocker Arm Support
1550 Conv kit
HTCC Stroker Forged pistons
SE260 Cam KIT
Adjustable pushrods
1450 Stage 1 EFI kit

It had just 3 runs on the dyno with the race tuner
Run 1 97.27 HP and 97.39 torque
Run 2 98.53 HP and 97.23 torque
Run 3 99.09 HP and 97.50 torque

DO THESE NUMBERS sound GOOD?????I was hoping for 100 HP and hoipefully running it with octane boost and a different Dyno maybe I will gat that number????Dealer said they could fine tune it more and get that 100HP but could cost 300-500 dollars,Just wasnt worth it to me.Hope these numbers help someone.ken

 

That last few HP are always the tough ones, just find the right dyno. I noticed that the dyno used the SAE correction factor and #5 smoothing which is today's proper dyno proceedure. However, some dyno operators are not using proper proceedures, by using STD CF and/or a smoothing of less then a #5 will increase your TQ/HP numbers, we see this on many dyno sheets, for obvious reasons. Be careful on increasing octane, if the engine is not detonating you will usually get the most power from an octane slightly above whatever it takes to prevent detonation. Another words, contrary to popular belief, adding more octane then what your engine barely requires does not help performance, usually hurts it. It does not look like you are getting any detonation based on the fairly smooth dyno curves. Note the original poster's dyno sheet. you can see the detonation as the air/fuel ratio goes lean. Hope you get your three digit graph someday.

 

Dude like was said the A/F is all over the place and not good at all. i sure hope they did not charge much. I only paid $80.00 for my tune and the dyno did not have a break and my A/F is about perfect. I would get to a better tuner fast!

 

I'd say "yeah,good" what exhaust? 2-1? 2-2? ......103 Stroker can see better #s w/good 2-1 exhaust and good tune....I'd think a good Wood's or Andrews cam set-up w/good exhaust'll put ya well over the 100 mark.....my

 

Here's my dyno sheet from last year. The setup is 95", 204 cams, stock heads, Super Trapp Mean Mothers, Screaming Eagle air filter. Like the previous posters said after 3500 you get way too lean, you'll notice on mine when mine gets rich the line gets bumpy as well. I would take it back and demand they do it right, you paid good money to have it set, get your moneys worth.

 

[QUOTE=Cattivo;6514191]What do you all think? Had it done at Tucson HD today; a little more than 5 hours total. It says at the bottom, slip on mufflers it has Bub 7 True Duals, and RSD Air cleaner.

I didn't know what to expect, as I don't know much about such things. Don't know how good, if at all these numbers are. But, the tech seemed knowledgeable, and even took the time to talk to me, and explain what he did, blah, blah, blah. All I know is that it runs really well, and I'm happy as hell!!

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AS others said,,, if its just a 103 kit,,, no cams, then the numbers are not too bad. the A/F ratio is way off in upper rpm's

Should get at least 8-10 more TQ & HP easy with some cams and a better curve.

Also the right cam would give U more tq in the lower rpm's, plus more TQ in higher rpms and last a little longer. Whats called more area under the curve..

Ur down on TQ under 3k,, that where some cams would really help..
And it falls quick after 5k.

Thats why I went with Andrew 26's,, to help my low-mid TQ,,, But there's a lot of bolt-ins that will give decent results..
Take a look at My sheet (below link).. Its the first post in this thread,, I started this thread to help members for ?'s like this.....
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...-softails.html

Remember a build has to have the parts that go together, don't just throw anything in Ur motor. U haven't done that with just the BB kit. So If U do cams, put some thought in Ur choice as where U want the Tq.

Also did U know the Touring and Softail sections both have a thread for DYNO'S .. over a thousand post in them to look at.....
Go to either section and look in the STICKY threads at the top of the first page in them.....lots of builds, motors, cams, and pipe combos to look at in there.

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Reading U post again, I would go back and show the shop mgr the dyno and tell him Ur concern of the A/F ratio,, having learned that it not the norm of other dyno's U've seen,, maybe even ask to see other dyno sheets that's been done there... If there all that way I'd let them know there not tuning right,, maybe copy a few off the forum here and take them with U..
Also do a search on proper tuning.....

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...uel-ratio.html
07-30-2007, 09:00 PM

From latus motors
RE: air/fuel ratio after dyno tune
At WOT the fuel ratio should be flat at 12.8-13.2 for best performance (and dyno hp/tq numbers). Note that typical dyno charts only show the motor running at WOT. Most other part throttle areas would normally be set from 13.5-14.5 depending on rpm and load (not charted by the dyno). 14.5 only in the lightest load/cruise for best fuel milage. You can use the face plate "High" range button to enrich the fuel to see if the bike runs better (I would not change the low and mid buttons as your saying the bike runs fine otherwise). If no improvement, then easily returned back to nuetral.
Mike

 

If he has not had the cams upgraded these numbers are pretty good. If the cams were done too, i agree. he should be in tripple digits on torque and the upper 90s on hp.

I had the stage two done over a period of time with the 103 upgrade before the cams and his numbers are better than what i had the first time through.

 

Agree, most with cams are around 105/95. give or take a few...thats without head-work of course...