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I was just thinking about a way to cleaning the engine fully before changing the oil. I bought my night train in February and Its time for an oil change. Ive only put about 2k on the oil in it, BUT I dont know whats in the oil tank. I already purchase mobil 1 synthetic 20w-50 and my question is.......Do you think you can have the engine running and fill the oil tank and drain at the same time while adding more oil as its running to fully flush the engine with new oil? I know this will waste money with the expensive synthetc oil, but Id rather blow mone on oil than an engine....
I think it's a risk running the engine w/o the proper amount of oil in the lube system which is what you would have attempting to do what you described. The lube system relies on volume as well as pressure to function properly. I wouldn't risk it. I would assume that any residual oil left in the system after a thorough drain would be a miniscule percentage of the total volume. You didn't say what year, how many miles are on the bike, or how the PO maintained it. If you really are concerned about the issue, go to an auto parts store and buy some oil detergent additive, do a normal oil change adding the extra cleaners, ride the bike until you get everything up to operating temp, come back in and do another oil change, with filter. That should be more than adequate. Unless you have some reason for believing there's sludge in the tank I think its overkill, but hey, it's your bike and your money.
was just wondering about it that all. Its a 2006 night train fuel injected with about 11400 on it. Runs great but starting to notice a little resistance while running now. Being I dont know what oil is in it. I want to put the right kind in it, and I think from reading on this forum, synthetic is the way to go....I hope. I bought mobil 1 v twin 20w-50 for it but have yet to put it in..yet
Modern motor oils have detergents in them already of course. I'd say this is overkill, it's not like the bike sat in a barn for 20 years and you've aquired it with concerns of contamination, etc.
Just change the oil and filter and go ride. Now if you just insist on a flush do as the poster above said - change oil, ride it 100 miles then change it again. You won't need to use the Mobile One for that on the first change - just use dino oil cuz half the price. Then put the Mobile One in on the 2nd change. I don't think this is necessary but if you feel better about it not a big deal to do it this way.
There is a product you can buy, I can't remember what it's called. The suggested use is normally for when you convert from normal oil to synthetic, or vice-versa. You drain 1L of oil and add this stuff, and run the bike for 20 minutes, then drain. I don't know what it's magically supposed to do. Might be Snake Oil for all I know, but such a product does indeed exist; I've seen it.
That bike hasn't run enough yet to be worried about oil. The "resistance" as you put it is more likely due to a dirty air cleaner, dirty injectors, dirty throttle body, some stale gas that gummed up something like the fuel filter, or finally, an electrical gremlin is beginning to creep in. I'd make sure all of those were in good operating order versus trying to "flush" the motor. Again, your money and your confidence in the bike's performance.
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I add a few ounces of sea foam to my oil about 100 miles before an oil change. In my trucks and cars I've done it at 50k miles and every 10,000 miles after that (I then dump what's left in the can into the gas tank).
With the age and miles on your bike I'd replace (or clean) the air filter, check and clean the spark plugs, and add some sea foam (or injector cleaner) to the fuel. I wouldn't expect any need or benefit to "cleaning" the inside of the engine.
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