stripped header bolt (phillips head), need help please!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,477
Likes: 14
From: Western MD
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 7,580
Likes: 7
From: The Internet (& Dyer, Indiana)
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,594
Likes: 5
From: warner robins, ga
There comes a time when you gotta ask yourself, just much is it worth?
How much you got in this bolt right now counting mig welder and all? There is a time when it is cheaper to just drill off the head and take it to the machine shop, or drill and tap it yourself.
When you weld that nut to it,if it does not work, the nut is now another obstical.
How much you got in this bolt right now counting mig welder and all? There is a time when it is cheaper to just drill off the head and take it to the machine shop, or drill and tap it yourself.
When you weld that nut to it,if it does not work, the nut is now another obstical.
youre right though, if welding a nut onto it doesnt work, i will have made the rabbit hole deeper. im hoping that with practice (i even have an extra dead engine to practice on if necessary) and patience, i can do it.
and faast ed is right on -- part of this is the challenge of it. when i bought this bike, i wanted and expected a massive project. this is a very frustrating step that may not seem worth the trouble, but i want to do as much of it as possible myself, if for no other reason than to be able to say i did.
regarding cutting the flange: id rather not do that unless i have to, but i havent ruled it out yet.
btw, no update as of yet, work has kept me busy. might be able to fiddle with it tomorrow some. will let you guys know what happens.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 4
From: Victoria, Australia
TO OSIRISDEAN:
If welding the nut doesn't work for you the worst case is it will come off in your hand as soon as you try to turn out the screw.
If that happens take your dremel and grind any dags/burrs off the screw, get a fresh nut and try again...
You can do this-- and you will be surprised how easy it will be to back the stuck screw out. All you need is a good solid 'tack' on two sides of the inside of the nut, but it doesn't matter if your control is poor and you fill more of the nut with weld than you wanted to-- as long as the weld is solid it will back out.
Run some weld beads on a piece of flat steel to help steady your arms and get the heat setting right before getting a handful of nust to practice with. You will know when the heat is right--it sounds like bacon sizzling in a pan and the arc will strike easily. Try to brace your arms and cup the control head like you would shoot a pistol two handed-- steady is key in putting down a good bead.
If the arc is hard to start the setting is too cold so go up 5 amps and try again; repeating as necessary till it's right. I'm guessing about 80 amps (+-), will put you in the ballpark to start then re-set from there.
When practising remember to keep your eye on the weld puddle and don't leave the puddle i.e. 'pull ahead' of it, or stay in it too long. Keep the wire in the puddle and move forward slowly. You won't need to weave the bead for this job-- just run the wire straight ahead.
When you weld inside the nut it probably won't be pretty but that doesn't matter. The nut will take the heat before the screw so you may need to 'favor' the puddle onto the screw side a little bit. You will only be inside the nut for a couple of seconds on each side but you must place the puddle so it melts into both the screw and the nut.
Sorry to be so wordy with the above but I wanted to try to paint a mental picture for you while you practise. You can do it!
If welding the nut doesn't work for you the worst case is it will come off in your hand as soon as you try to turn out the screw.
If that happens take your dremel and grind any dags/burrs off the screw, get a fresh nut and try again...
You can do this-- and you will be surprised how easy it will be to back the stuck screw out. All you need is a good solid 'tack' on two sides of the inside of the nut, but it doesn't matter if your control is poor and you fill more of the nut with weld than you wanted to-- as long as the weld is solid it will back out.
Run some weld beads on a piece of flat steel to help steady your arms and get the heat setting right before getting a handful of nust to practice with. You will know when the heat is right--it sounds like bacon sizzling in a pan and the arc will strike easily. Try to brace your arms and cup the control head like you would shoot a pistol two handed-- steady is key in putting down a good bead.
If the arc is hard to start the setting is too cold so go up 5 amps and try again; repeating as necessary till it's right. I'm guessing about 80 amps (+-), will put you in the ballpark to start then re-set from there.
When practising remember to keep your eye on the weld puddle and don't leave the puddle i.e. 'pull ahead' of it, or stay in it too long. Keep the wire in the puddle and move forward slowly. You won't need to weave the bead for this job-- just run the wire straight ahead.
When you weld inside the nut it probably won't be pretty but that doesn't matter. The nut will take the heat before the screw so you may need to 'favor' the puddle onto the screw side a little bit. You will only be inside the nut for a couple of seconds on each side but you must place the puddle so it melts into both the screw and the nut.
Sorry to be so wordy with the above but I wanted to try to paint a mental picture for you while you practise. You can do it!
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 7,580
Likes: 7
From: The Internet (& Dyer, Indiana)
TO OSIRISDEAN:
If welding the nut doesn't work for you the worst case is it will come off in your hand as soon as you try to turn out the screw.
If that happens take your dremel and grind any dags/burrs off the screw, get a fresh nut and try again...
You can do this-- and you will be surprised how easy it will be to back the stuck screw out. All you need is a good solid 'tack' on two sides of the inside of the nut, but it doesn't matter if your control is poor and you fill more of the nut with weld than you wanted to-- as long as the weld is solid it will back out.
Run some weld beads on a piece of flat steel to help steady your arms and get the heat setting right before getting a handful of nust to practice with. You will know when the heat is right--it sounds like bacon sizzling in a pan and the arc will strike easily. Try to brace your arms and cup the control head like you would shoot a pistol two handed-- steady is key in putting down a good bead.
If the arc is hard to start the setting is too cold so go up 5 amps and try again; repeating as necessary till it's right. I'm guessing about 80 amps (+-), will put you in the ballpark to start then re-set from there.
When practising remember to keep your eye on the weld puddle and don't leave the puddle i.e. 'pull ahead' of it, or stay in it too long. Keep the wire in the puddle and move forward slowly. You won't need to weave the bead for this job-- just run the wire straight ahead.
When you weld inside the nut it probably won't be pretty but that doesn't matter. The nut will take the heat before the screw so you may need to 'favor' the puddle onto the screw side a little bit. You will only be inside the nut for a couple of seconds on each side but you must place the puddle so it melts into both the screw and the nut.
Sorry to be so wordy with the above but I wanted to try to paint a mental picture for you while you practise. You can do it!
If welding the nut doesn't work for you the worst case is it will come off in your hand as soon as you try to turn out the screw.
If that happens take your dremel and grind any dags/burrs off the screw, get a fresh nut and try again...
You can do this-- and you will be surprised how easy it will be to back the stuck screw out. All you need is a good solid 'tack' on two sides of the inside of the nut, but it doesn't matter if your control is poor and you fill more of the nut with weld than you wanted to-- as long as the weld is solid it will back out.
Run some weld beads on a piece of flat steel to help steady your arms and get the heat setting right before getting a handful of nust to practice with. You will know when the heat is right--it sounds like bacon sizzling in a pan and the arc will strike easily. Try to brace your arms and cup the control head like you would shoot a pistol two handed-- steady is key in putting down a good bead.
If the arc is hard to start the setting is too cold so go up 5 amps and try again; repeating as necessary till it's right. I'm guessing about 80 amps (+-), will put you in the ballpark to start then re-set from there.
When practising remember to keep your eye on the weld puddle and don't leave the puddle i.e. 'pull ahead' of it, or stay in it too long. Keep the wire in the puddle and move forward slowly. You won't need to weave the bead for this job-- just run the wire straight ahead.
When you weld inside the nut it probably won't be pretty but that doesn't matter. The nut will take the heat before the screw so you may need to 'favor' the puddle onto the screw side a little bit. You will only be inside the nut for a couple of seconds on each side but you must place the puddle so it melts into both the screw and the nut.
Sorry to be so wordy with the above but I wanted to try to paint a mental picture for you while you practise. You can do it!
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 4
From: Victoria, Australia
The at work IT system won't let me quote Steelhammer but as he said place the ground as close to the work as possible and not on the frame.
Also make sure the battery is disconnected before striking your arc as bad things happen when electricity meets electronics (if any) on your project bike.
I can't see any pictures either from work other than avatars and sig pics.
Also make sure the battery is disconnected before striking your arc as bad things happen when electricity meets electronics (if any) on your project bike.
I can't see any pictures either from work other than avatars and sig pics.
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Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,594
Likes: 5
From: warner robins, ga
TO OSIRISDEAN:
If welding the nut doesn't work for you the worst case is it will come off in your hand as soon as you try to turn out the screw.
If that happens take your dremel and grind any dags/burrs off the screw, get a fresh nut and try again...
You can do this-- and you will be surprised how easy it will be to back the stuck screw out. All you need is a good solid 'tack' on two sides of the inside of the nut, but it doesn't matter if your control is poor and you fill more of the nut with weld than you wanted to-- as long as the weld is solid it will back out.
Run some weld beads on a piece of flat steel to help steady your arms and get the heat setting right before getting a handful of nust to practice with. You will know when the heat is right--it sounds like bacon sizzling in a pan and the arc will strike easily. Try to brace your arms and cup the control head like you would shoot a pistol two handed-- steady is key in putting down a good bead.
If the arc is hard to start the setting is too cold so go up 5 amps and try again; repeating as necessary till it's right. I'm guessing about 80 amps (+-), will put you in the ballpark to start then re-set from there.
When practising remember to keep your eye on the weld puddle and don't leave the puddle i.e. 'pull ahead' of it, or stay in it too long. Keep the wire in the puddle and move forward slowly. You won't need to weave the bead for this job-- just run the wire straight ahead.
When you weld inside the nut it probably won't be pretty but that doesn't matter. The nut will take the heat before the screw so you may need to 'favor' the puddle onto the screw side a little bit. You will only be inside the nut for a couple of seconds on each side but you must place the puddle so it melts into both the screw and the nut.
Sorry to be so wordy with the above but I wanted to try to paint a mental picture for you while you practise. You can do it!
If welding the nut doesn't work for you the worst case is it will come off in your hand as soon as you try to turn out the screw.
If that happens take your dremel and grind any dags/burrs off the screw, get a fresh nut and try again...
You can do this-- and you will be surprised how easy it will be to back the stuck screw out. All you need is a good solid 'tack' on two sides of the inside of the nut, but it doesn't matter if your control is poor and you fill more of the nut with weld than you wanted to-- as long as the weld is solid it will back out.
Run some weld beads on a piece of flat steel to help steady your arms and get the heat setting right before getting a handful of nust to practice with. You will know when the heat is right--it sounds like bacon sizzling in a pan and the arc will strike easily. Try to brace your arms and cup the control head like you would shoot a pistol two handed-- steady is key in putting down a good bead.
If the arc is hard to start the setting is too cold so go up 5 amps and try again; repeating as necessary till it's right. I'm guessing about 80 amps (+-), will put you in the ballpark to start then re-set from there.
When practising remember to keep your eye on the weld puddle and don't leave the puddle i.e. 'pull ahead' of it, or stay in it too long. Keep the wire in the puddle and move forward slowly. You won't need to weave the bead for this job-- just run the wire straight ahead.
When you weld inside the nut it probably won't be pretty but that doesn't matter. The nut will take the heat before the screw so you may need to 'favor' the puddle onto the screw side a little bit. You will only be inside the nut for a couple of seconds on each side but you must place the puddle so it melts into both the screw and the nut.
Sorry to be so wordy with the above but I wanted to try to paint a mental picture for you while you practise. You can do it!
today im going to call a local steel shop and see if i can dig through their trash bin for some metal to practice on and hopefully make some sparks fly tonight.