stripped header bolt (phillips head), need help please!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,675
Likes: 95
From: Billings,Mt.
Yep,this method may work also if theres enough room to swing the hammer.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 313
Likes: 1
From: St.Louis, Mo area
Before you go and really bugger things up by drilling, get some valve grind compund. Assuming you've already soaked the screw with penetrant oil, use the compund to give bite to the screw driver, just dip the tip in it, also make sure your using the right size tip. If your screw driver has a square shaft, use a wrench as a handle to increase leverage/torque. A set of vice grips will serve the same purpose. Lean in to the screw driver with as much *** as you can put into it, and work the handle back and forth to break it free. This will work alot of the time, but I hate it when it gets to the point your drilling stuff out. Good luck. If that doen't work and you do have to start drilling, make sure you use a spray lube to get any of the compound out of the head. Valve grind compound will turn a new drill bit into worthless smoke generator in about 1 second.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,741
Likes: 1,599
From: Danbury CT
The Sears tool will work but put the drill in low & proceed slowly.
Here's another unique way if your a golfer. Drill 2 small holes in the screw head (center punch first) if it's wide enough the same distance apart as a golf shoe spike & insert the spike remover in the holes. The hole only need to be 1/16-1/8"
deep. It's good if you have the ratchet type tool with a handle. Unscrew, it should work.
OK boys, flame away, I can take it!
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 7,580
Likes: 7
From: The Internet (& Dyer, Indiana)
Heat is your friend. Get that bolt real hot and try again.
If the Phillips head is way stripped, try a dremmel to cut a slot in the head.
Another trick that never fails me as a last resort, a nice sharp 1/4" chisel, tapping the head counter clockwise. Sometimes you have to dress the chisel again to keep it sharp. Just keep aiming it so it's impact is driving the bolt counter clockwise.
Matter of fact this method works without the heat. (But heat is your friend).
Just don't light you garage on fire.
If the Phillips head is way stripped, try a dremmel to cut a slot in the head.
Another trick that never fails me as a last resort, a nice sharp 1/4" chisel, tapping the head counter clockwise. Sometimes you have to dress the chisel again to keep it sharp. Just keep aiming it so it's impact is driving the bolt counter clockwise.
Matter of fact this method works without the heat. (But heat is your friend).
Just don't light you garage on fire.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,551
Likes: 22
From: Jacksonville Beach, FL.
I know he said penetrant.
He also said lubricant. I only pointed out that it's not a permanent lube...as in don't use it on cables or other places where you need to lubricate something.
However, if YOU want to use it, go ahead.
He also said lubricant. I only pointed out that it's not a permanent lube...as in don't use it on cables or other places where you need to lubricate something.
However, if YOU want to use it, go ahead.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,598
Likes: 14
From: navarre ohio
just looked at the picture...start by using a hardened bolt as a punch,big enough that it doesn't damage the screw head,give it a few good wacks.then use a good impact driver,the kind you turn while beating the crap out of it with a hammer.make sure the bit you use fits the screw head good.if that doesnt work,grind a flat grove in the screw to make a flat head screw.use a flat head bit with the impact driver.that should take it rite out.if that doesnt work,you are going to have to get a sharp centerpunch,tap the edge of the screw around a circle.if you dont have the tools or ability to get it out take it to a bike,or machine shop before you damage the screw anymore.it isnt a big job so it should be pretty cheap..dont drill on the screw any,that will only make it harder to get out.most likley you will ether end up with a drilled out/broken stud in the cylinder head that a machine shop will have to get out.or a ruined head all togeather
Last edited by j1mmy; Feb 27, 2011 at 11:11 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 724
Likes: 2
From: SC Lowcountry
+1 on the hammer type impact driver, proper bit, and heat.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,852
Likes: 2,494
From: Decatur, Alabama
Well, it's Monday morning. Is the bolt out yet? The suspense is killing me.
With as many varied and excellent suggestions for bolt removal, this thread could darn near be made into a sticky.
With as many varied and excellent suggestions for bolt removal, this thread could darn near be made into a sticky.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 1,128
From:
#1 removal of other screws might be placing some load on last bolt.
Consider replacement of a couple of screws (lubricate so they do not get stuck)
#2 lube screw with everything you have available
#3 See if some kind of bit will work for you, flat, torx, allen etc. the grinding paste mentioned would increase some grab...impact hammer style if possible
#4 if things fail then try to cut a long slot and return again at number #2...but would appear you have limited room for cutting with dremel unless you have the flexable extention.
Could someone wiggle the header pipe while you work on screw? might just be bound-up.
Consider replacement of a couple of screws (lubricate so they do not get stuck)
#2 lube screw with everything you have available
#3 See if some kind of bit will work for you, flat, torx, allen etc. the grinding paste mentioned would increase some grab...impact hammer style if possible
#4 if things fail then try to cut a long slot and return again at number #2...but would appear you have limited room for cutting with dremel unless you have the flexable extention.
Could someone wiggle the header pipe while you work on screw? might just be bound-up.