stripped header bolt (phillips head), need help please!
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 7,580
Likes: 7
From: The Internet (& Dyer, Indiana)
Just gotta be careful not to melt it. Keep that torch tip moving.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,936
Likes: 20
From: Driftless Area
From what I've read and know, more heat is not the answer, pull the stupid head and take it to a machine shop. If you try to drill and the bit drifts, it goes into soft metal, then you WILL have a problem. Perfect example of why to use anti-sieze!!
Last edited by 1skrewsloose; Feb 28, 2011 at 06:14 PM.
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 7,580
Likes: 7
From: The Internet (& Dyer, Indiana)
I can visualize him carrying the head into the shop, with the pipe still attached. He he! Kodak moment!
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
If you still have the slot cut in it for a flat tip, get a flat tip bit and I think its an 8mm socket that fits on the bit. Connect this to an impact gun. Preferably a 3/8" drive electric one and then heat the area around the stud then use the set up I just described.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,741
Likes: 1,599
From: Danbury CT
Correct, see post 33. It's a countersunk head & there won't be anything left to grip. An oval head might be tough to snug tight
Last edited by golfblues; Feb 28, 2011 at 07:39 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 4
From: Victoria, Australia
completely agree, and i thank everyone for all their input. i think for any other bolt, any of the offered methods shouldve worked, but this one was just destined to be my nemesis.
(if anyone does want to talk me out of welding a new head, you'll have at least a couple days since i have to snag a MIG & safety equipment and practice a bit.)
i think for any other bolt, any of the offered methods shouldve worked, but this one was just destined to be my nemesis.(if anyone does want to talk me out of welding a new head, you'll have at least a couple days since i have to snag a MIG & safety equipment and practice a bit.)
I had to use a stick welder with a 3/32" GP rod as I didn't have a MIG handy, but I'm an experienced confident welder.
The heat input worked a treat and while it was hot I hardly had to turn the nut and the stud nearly fell out.
Also you might want to consider draping some very wet rags over anything nearby that you don't want to burn, discolor or risk weld spatter sticking to someplace where you don't want it.
I would suggest that if you have a friend who is handy at welding I'd be asking him over and shout him a couple of cold ones for helping.
YOU can do it though-- just practice a bit and get your heat right. Get into a comfortable position (if possible) and steady your arms against the frame, header, or whatever is handy-- it will improve your chances for a good bead inside the nut.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2009
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Likes: 5
From: warner robins, ga
(i needed that laugh, too. much appreciated.
)
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,594
Likes: 5
From: warner robins, ga
I have done this to a flush broken stud with a broken EZ out stuck in it, in a tight location. I held a nut with vicegrips over the broken stud and ran a small bead to the inside of the nut.
I had to use a stick welder with a 3/32" GP rod as I didn't have a MIG handy, but I'm an experienced confident welder.
The heat input worked a treat and while it was hot I hardly had to turn the nut and the stud nearly fell out.
Also you might want to consider draping some very wet rags over anything nearby that you don't want to burn, discolor or risk weld spatter sticking to someplace where you don't want it.
I would suggest that if you have a friend who is handy at welding I'd be asking him over and shout him a couple of cold ones for helping.
YOU can do it though-- just practice a bit and get your heat right. Get into a comfortable position (if possible) and steady your arms against the frame, header, or whatever is handy-- it will improve your chances for a good bead inside the nut.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
I had to use a stick welder with a 3/32" GP rod as I didn't have a MIG handy, but I'm an experienced confident welder.
The heat input worked a treat and while it was hot I hardly had to turn the nut and the stud nearly fell out.
Also you might want to consider draping some very wet rags over anything nearby that you don't want to burn, discolor or risk weld spatter sticking to someplace where you don't want it.
I would suggest that if you have a friend who is handy at welding I'd be asking him over and shout him a couple of cold ones for helping.
YOU can do it though-- just practice a bit and get your heat right. Get into a comfortable position (if possible) and steady your arms against the frame, header, or whatever is handy-- it will improve your chances for a good bead inside the nut.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
side note: before doing the weld, i still plan on exhausting my other options. going to attempt another screw extraction, this time with heat. (i suspect that faast ed was right, and i wish i had tried heat from the getgo before stripping the bolt head. doh!)
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,675
Likes: 95
From: Billings,Mt.
Yes you better practice,practice,practice first before attempting the nut method or you will have a molted blob of steel welded to the pipe flange!
Starting an arc with a stick welder can be tricky for a novice.
Starting an arc with a stick welder can be tricky for a novice.