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Old Sep 28, 2012 | 11:54 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by mmancuso
That's why I never try anything to trigger one if it doesn't change.

It is legal in NC to run the light if the sensors don't pick up your ride.
found this


South Carolina (2008), North Carolina(2007), Wisconsin (2006), Idaho (2006) Arkansas (2005), Tennessee (2003) and Minnesota (2002), have passed a law OKing "motorcyclists to proceed with caution after stopping when the device that causes the light to change from red to green doesn't activate"

Bills have been introduced for the same purpose in Georgia, Missouri and Oklahoma.

Source: http://www.norwichbulletin.com/motor...or-motorcycles



.
 
Old Sep 28, 2012 | 12:37 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by oct1949
found this


South Carolina (2008), North Carolina(2007), Wisconsin (2006), Idaho (2006) Arkansas (2005), Tennessee (2003) and Minnesota (2002), have passed a law OKing "motorcyclists to proceed with caution after stopping when the device that causes the light to change from red to green doesn't activate"

Bills have been introduced for the same purpose in Georgia, Missouri and Oklahoma.

Source: http://www.norwichbulletin.com/motor...or-motorcycles



.
Oklahoma passed this bill last year

Odd personal story, my Fatboy seemed to always trigger the lights, my new RGC does not... RG is clearly heavier, although not by much. I wonder what the difference is? Solid FatBoy wheels? I had shortshots on the Fatboy, and have a Rush 2:1 on the RGC. Only real difference I can think of. Must be the stupid fixed fairing.
 
Old Sep 28, 2012 | 11:56 PM
  #33  
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It does work by induction (well, most. Some are ultra-sonic, which may explain why some dont work). Some more sensitive than others. We were taught the same thing in early 90's as they teach now...rev while your on the loop. It senses it better if you pull over one of the cut lines where they laid the wire. (some report success with magnets under the bike...I never tried that,ymmv...

This is from one of the sensor manufacturers: An inductive loop vehicle detector system consists of three components: a loop (preformed or
saw-cut), loop extension cable and a detector. When installing or repairing an inductive loop
system the smallest detail can mean the difference between reliable detection and an intermittent detection of vehicles. Therefore, attention to detail when installing or troubleshooting an inductive loop vehicle detection system is absolutely critical.


The pdf describing it: http://www.marshproducts.com/pdf/Ind...Write%20up.pdf

Hope it's somewhat helpful. If not, a few shots from your firearm will
 
Old Sep 29, 2012 | 12:33 AM
  #34  
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Yes this works. Another thing that works but I highly rec. you don't do this; is pressing the starter button. the EMF trips the light. But I'm sure you know that it's not healthy for your bike.
 
Old Sep 29, 2012 | 01:22 AM
  #35  
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Just remember to keep this in mind (per the pdf) When installing or repairing an inductive loop
system the smallest detail can mean the difference between reliable detection and an intermittent detection of vehicles
. Many times (at least in this area), that road crew is trying to get in and out of there, since "time is money"...some of them just wont pick up a bike, which isn't too bad then the area has some common sense, and passes a law that we can proceed through if it doesnt change.
From what I was always told, is you run your bike up along the seam that is going parralel with the curbs, there's a better chance of it detecting the bike...it seems in line with what Maltese posted from Va, so it's probably worthwhile to try.
 
Old Sep 29, 2012 | 07:29 AM
  #36  
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Default Left on red

In TN you can turn LEFT on RED if no traffic coming in either direction.
 
Old Sep 29, 2012 | 05:12 PM
  #37  
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I read somewhere lately that if you pull up next to the saw cut and lower your jiffy stand a couple of times so the jiffy stand is on top of the saw cut the light will change. I tried it once and the light changed but I am not sure if the Jiffy stand really had anything to do with it.
 
Old Sep 29, 2012 | 05:36 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Nellybelle
I read somewhere lately that if you pull up next to the saw cut and lower your jiffy stand a couple of times so the jiffy stand is on top of the saw cut the light will change. I tried it once and the light changed but I am not sure if the Jiffy stand really had anything to do with it.
I think thats more to get the running engine close to the sensor wire...If the kick is close enough to cover the cut, the engine should be very close to the sensing wire...especially if they are induction-sening wires.
But I can't say that with 100% certainty, just stuff I learned from the traffic guys when I was helping with traffic, and it wouldn't be the first time I was wrong
 
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Old Sep 29, 2012 | 08:14 PM
  #39  
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Thank you, makes sense to me.
 
Old Oct 1, 2012 | 07:46 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by carpenter115
I think thats more to get the running engine close to the sensor wire...If the kick is close enough to cover the cut, the engine should be very close to the sensing wire...especially if they are induction-sening wires.
But I can't say that with 100% certainty, just stuff I learned from the traffic guys when I was helping with traffic, and it wouldn't be the first time I was wrong

I tried the jiffysatng lowering and di dnot work for me. Moved the bike so it hit the cut.

U need to b really careful since someone can come up behind u and u di dnot know it while looking down. i.e.: U do not want them to hit you so I look back a lot.

BuzzCap7
 
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