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General Topics/Tech TipsDiscussion on break in periods, rider comfort, seats and pad suggestions. Tech tips as they become available will be posted here.
Greetings, Can anyone help me out wit some information. I bought an 87 electraGlide Sport and it needs some work. I bought all the parts, but I don't have the tools. Stator. Rear tire. Brakes front and back. (Just pads for now) Wheel bearings repacked, but I bought new ones seeing I'd be in there anyway. Front fork rebuild. And converting from the Zenith carb to a CV40. What exact tools will I need for the above jobs? I don't want to spend several hundreds of dollars on sets to get 1 tool. There is a used tool seller close to me and if I can, I'd rather buy single tools specific to this bike so that when I need them, I'll have them. I'm 56 and this is my first Harley. I'm excited to get this thing done. Thank you for any and all reply's.
It's dirty because the last owner stopped taking care of it. Next spring it will look much better.
Thanks again.
You will need quite a few tools for those few jobs. A good 3/8" socket set that includes a ratchet handle and extensions, and a set of good combination wrenches for starters. Plus the usual screw drivers. Buy good quality brand name tools, never the cheap Chinese junk. It will cause you grief. Better to buy used quality tools than new junk from Harbor Freight or Grizzly. You will need either a special large socket and 1/2" breaker bar or a very large crescent wrench etc for the fork top nuts is about the only special tool you will need for those jobs. You might need a set of Torx bits for your socket set too for things like brake calipers etc. And a set of allen keys for primary screws etc. You may need an impact screw driver and hammer if the fork drain screws are Phillips and not allen. Depends on model etc.
The CV40 carb is a good idea.
Have fun.
PS, The No1 most important tool is the factory service manual. Second is the factory parts book, it shows how everything goes together in itty bitty detail that is not in the service manual.
Why are you changing the stator, are you upgrading to a higher amperage system?
Early Evos had issues with lifter failure, the lifters were upgraded in the early to mid `90s.
If it were my bike, replacing the lifters would be a high priority.
OEM lifters, S&S, and Johnson Hy Lift are all good, avoid no name lifters (ebay) like the plague.
`94 and earlier 5 speed machines had issues with the transmission sprocket retaining nut coming loose, if not caught right away this may cause expensive damage (this problem was not uncommon).
When replacing the transmission sprocket and related hardware, use parts for `95 or later (there is also a kit available).
This would also be a high priority item.
If the wheel bearings look good, there is no need to replace them (special tools are needed to remove outer races from hubs).
Steering head bearings should be inspected and repacked while you have the front end apart for fork service.
PeterB has given good advice on tools.
At some point in the future, you will most likely need to remove the inner primary cover, you will need a few special tools:
Locking bar to immobilize the clutch and compensator sprockets.
1-1/2" socket (1/2 or 3/4" drive, 6 point) for compensator bolt.
Greetings and thank you for your reply.
To answer your question, I'm replacing the stator because the last owner said it needs one. Symptoms are; idle takes a dive when the lights are turned on. It doesn't matter which lights. They all make it do it. Squeeze the front break and the idle dives enough to make it stall. Rear break same, headlight, turn signals they all do it.
But, it doesn't do it all the time. It's worse when its first started. Warmed up it does it less.
I rode it about 120 miles before I parked it for repairs and it did not kill the battery.
I really don't know why it's doing that, but the last owner said stator, so I bought a charging kit ( stator, rotor and regulator ) from DennisKirk figuring I'd take the shotgun approach because the bike has 87500 miles on it so I might as well get it all done at once.
The last owner told me the top end was done about 15000 miles ago.
From what I've read so far, the lifters go bad between 30k and 40k miles, so mine should have been done twice having 87k miles on it. Is that safe to assume?
Front fork dives all the down when breaking. It has no resistance at all. Hold the front break and push down and it will bottom out with little effort.
As far as tools go, I bought a very basic 1/4 3/8 socket set and combination wrench set with pliers and screwdrivers. But they only go up to 3/4 and 18mm.
I noticed this uses a lot of torx and allen keys too. What are the most common ones? I'd rather not buy full sets when all I'd need are 2 or 3.
Come spring, I intend to begin putting a lot of miles on this thing and I'd like to carry what tools I'd need to repair almost anything on the side of the road or a parking lot. What do I need to get the axle nuts off? My Clymer manual doesn't tell me the sizes of any nuts or bolts.
Again, thank you for your time. I really appreciate it.
Thank you for your reply.
I did end up getting a very basic 1/4 3/8 socket set and combination wrenches. And usual pliers and screwdrivers.
After this thing is done, I plan on putting a lot of miles on it, so I need to figure out what I need to carry so I can fix almost anything in a parking lot.
I have a Clymer manual that came with the bike, but it reminds me of the Haynes cars. Basic stuff. Doesn't tell me what size nuts, bolts, Torx or Allen keys I need!
I don't want to spend a grand on tool sets when all I'm going to use is a small portion of em.
Again thank you for your reply. I really appreciate it.
As above says, get yourself a HD manual, you're going to need if for torque specs, no sense getting stuck. Hope you picked this up for a good price. Sounds like you have a good task list to get it rolling.
Get a manual, basic tools are all you'll need and far as the wheel bearings, get new seals and clean & inspect yours, if the races aren't scored repack with Green Grease or a good syn like Mobil 1 and go. The old style bearings can run for decades with a bit of irregular TLC. Changing them can get involved for a newbie, they aren't plug & play, takes special tools and set up sometimes with shims.
Just because the bike has 87k miles you cannot assume the lifters have been changed twice. Many owners never change them until they suffer a failure, and yours could well be imminent. My '91 EVO dumped a lifter at 93k miles. I got lucky in that it only cost me a set of lifters and a new cam. It had never occurred to me to proactively change them at the time.
You can do really well on tools if you have the time to go to estate sales. Excellent stuff can be found with a bit of luck and patience. Buying just the tools you need is probably false economy. When you say you're going to get everything fixed and be done..... that's never happened for me. Like most vehicles, every motorcycle I've ever had always has a backlog list of things that need doing or at least checking. For me it's a great hobby. Enjoy your EVO!
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87 Electra Glide Help
