i want to paint my tank/fenders.i dont have a show bike.a decent job is good eneough but might as well make it as good as possible
questions are..
1.how good of a job can expect/how long will it last if i use engine paint from rattle can(not cheap $1 a can walmart stuff) also should i use a clear coat over that?any tips?
2.how much better will powder coating it be from a harbor freight system(have not got yet and still need to find an oven)
3.instead of using the engine paint should i just go the normal route with car paint and a paint gun?
4.anyone use the harbor freight spray guns?

dont just tell me harbor freight is cheap crap...i think everyone knows that but also everything else is cheap crap too unless you spend big bucks.....even then its suspect

 

Well, being a custom painter,I will first ask you to support us poor old custom airbrush guys. But, if you are determined to do it yourself, here's some scoop for you.
1. Do not use engine paint at all. Even the best is not good enough to withstand any UV's or any other daily abuse.And definitely do not clear coat over it if you don't listen to me. The clear will react with the paint and look really funky.
2. Powder coating is nice if you are set up for it. The tins would need to be stripped down to metal,and any dings would have to be worked out with only Lab Metal. It is like bondo ,but has metal in it. Otherwise powder coat would be a bad choice also.
3. Ok,noiw you're talking. Go to your nearest PPG supplier or whoever, and talk to them. Most paint suppliers are very helpful and will walk you through this process. Base coat clear coat is the choice IMHO. You can buy black shop line paint form PPG for about $45 per quart. One quart of clear with hardner is about $100. Prep is the key . If you want to PM me about any prep on the set you have, just fire away ,and I would be glad to help.

 

nightking--what is the difference between base clear coat and clear coat? base clear coat you dont have to go over it with a separate clear coat?
do you sand at all after you paint then buff etc or do you just paint it with a wet look and let it dry?
i have not used a paint gun in a long time.....but i am a spray can king..

 

I have painted a few of my bikes with rattle can. buy decent automotive paint and do light coats.
the last one i did about 7 light light coats of primer, letting them dry and wet sanding with 800 grit paper between each.
then about 10 to 14 light coats of paint wet sanding with 800 or 1000 grit in between each. and about 5 coats of clear also with sandig.
It was time consuming, took a whole weekend, but for about 20 dollars I have a paint job that blows peoples minds when I tell them its rattle can.

 

Basically it is a 2 part system. You shoot the base coat first, then shoot the clear over that. I would not advise shooting a $15,000 bike with auto parts rattle cans. It may look kind of impressive for a while, but will wind up being redone very soon. You just can't beat a 2 part paint and clear for longevity. If you were doing a 125 Suzuki dirt bike, hell I'd help you paint it with rattle cans. But, not your main squeeze. Once the clear has been shot (2-3 coats minumum), then you sand and polish it out. Can't beat it.

 

15k??? i am a poor country boy...mine is an old ironhead.looks like a shovel somewhat unless you know whatyou are looking at to me...paid 2300 with about 1500 in it probably.
i have only painted stuff with paint only just giving it a wet look and then letting it dry with no buffing.i have no clear coat experience or buffing experience......

 

Ok, well, regardless, rattle can is really not the way to go, my friend. If you have no experience with polishing, I can walk you through it.

 

Base coat/clear coat is By far easier to spray...
I have a fairly cheap set of guns, and even a small pancake compressor will do.
If you don't have/can't afford a compressor, borrow one...
make sure it has a fresh inline filter/dryer
Its worth the investment of these items if you plan on/think you might want to paint something else in the future...

once it is painted, cleared, and cured...wet sand starting with 600g/800g.
work your way up through 1000/1500/2000... then buff it out to a glass finish

I have a cheap Harbor freight Buffer with good 3m pads...
Buffing compound is readily available at auto detailing supplier/and some automotive parts stores.

 

i have not 100% decided on good rattle can or spray gun yet.i have started to sand the fenders.i think it was powder coated.its very hard to sand.i am doing it by hand.it does not look like the car paint i have sanded in the past...long past but more like the powder coated stuff i have seen in factories.might jus be alot of clear coat i dunno fer sure.after sanding i can still see the purple flames(purple is the big reason why i am painting it...its really only noticeable looking at it head on.) thought about using stripper but not sure.i will most likely sand until i think its good and then sand it again and hope its good eneough.
with the paint guns i noticed most are hvlp....how does that work because i remember back in the day i was told to paint at 60 and most of the ones i have seen is 30-40.....just wondering about that.
i have afull size upright compressor.i have a hard time thinking about sanding somthing i just painted though.....i dont know if i can make myself do it...

 

HVLP is what's used...
use a good inline filter, and put the regulator at the gun(precise pressure).
It probably does have clear, if the finish is good just scotch brite it(scuff it up good).
then spray it, sand it, repeat, then do the clear(3 coats), sand it, buff it.