Sportster help needed...
Sorry if this is a bit cheeky as I only joined yesterday but I need help!
I have a 2000 Sportster that started out as an 883; last year (July) my engine cut out whilst I was riding; I safely coasted to the side of the road and tried to start my bike again. Initially the starter turned over but the engine did not fire; after about 10-15 minutes it did eventually start and I managed to get another couple of miles before it happened again. I got the bike recovered to a shop and my mechanic suggested the problem was with the ignition module so I had a new one fitted; at the same time, I had a new coil, plugs and leads. Sadly this did not fix the problem and it has happened with amazing regularity ever since. I only get about 10-20 miles before it happens, and then the bike cuts out and will not start again for about 10-20 minutes. It does not happen when the bike is idling and the lights are unaffected.
Unfortunately the problem has not gone away and to date (as well as the above) I have replaced the circuit breaker and kill switch, and had a second ignition module. Incidentally I have also had new 1200 barrels and pistons!
I have taken it to two different shops and neither can find the root of the problem; although both seem to think the problem is electrical.
This is breaking my heart as I did 37,000 miles in the first 4 years of ownership and have managed less than 500 since last July!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
The electrical process is gonna be drawn out to troubleshoot. First, have either of the shops that worked on the bike tried to actually troubleshoot, or did they just use your purse to throw parts at the bike, hoping one of the notes would stick, and earning the shop some extra bucks by making you pay for unneeded stuff? If you take it to another mechanic, ask how they will troubleshoot the problem. If they try to blow you off, or give you some slick patter, find another shop. Memorize the basics of what Iâm going to put down here, and use it as ammo. If you understand a bit of the process, you can at least understand if theyâre trying to just be condescending to you.
Electrical/electronics troubleshooting is a process of âdivide & conquer.â First you gain an understanding of the components of a circuit or system, then you divide the circuit in half. Now test the signal at the midpoint of the circuit. If it is OK, the problem is in the second half; if not, itâs in the first half. Next divide the troubled portion of the circuit in half again. Repeat this process until you find the bad component. Replace it, and see what happens. If there is still a problem, look for another bad component using the same procedure. You should also look for underlying causes as well. Why did a component fail? Was it a voltage surge due to a faulty regulator? Was it because the battery is old and failing? You also look for problems with the actual point-to-point wiring - bare wires, bad solder joints, bad crimps, loose connections, pinched or kinked wires. Anyway, thatâs the basic process.
While I do not know your exact circuit path for the ignition, it probably is similar to most. From the + battery post, to a connection on the starter motor (might go to starter coil), to the main circuit breaker, to the ignition switch, to the ignition circuit breaker, to the stop switch, to the coil, to the ignition module. The ignition module is activated by the pickup in the cover on the right side of the engine (cam cover area). What weâll check is those basic components. To make sure of the path for your bike, get a manual and trace the circuit out, making your own simple block diagram. Drawing it yourself helps to plant it in your mind, without all the distractions of the maze of other wiring and devices on the factory schematic.
1) First make sure your battery is good. I think it is, because you say your light circuits are working OK when the motor quits. Ride the bike âtil it quits, pull a plug, ground it to the engine, crank the bike, and check for spark. Make sure the plug is grounded, or you wonât see a spark, and might damage the module. If it sparks, it might be a fuel problem. If not, it is electrical.
2) Make up a long jumper wire with an inline fuse. Disconnect the lead on the hot side of the coil and tape the lead end. Connect one end of your jumper to the coil. Connect the other end of the jumper to the + lead of the battery. Start and ride the bike. If the problem persists, the fault(s) is/are in the coil, plug wires (both - not likely), plugs (again, both - not likely), module, pickup, or some interconnecting wiring. If the problem goes away, then the fault is somewhere in the main circuit breaker (not likely âcause the lights are OK), ignition switch, ignition breaker, stop switch, or interconnecting wiring.
3) Letâs start with the problem persisting. Temporarily replace the ignition module with a known good one. Ride and check results. If still on the blink, temporarily replace the coil. Ride and check results. Still on the blink; temporarily repla
That is excellent advice - thank you so much! I do suspect that the first shop we went to did do the whole throwing parts at the bike, however the second one hasn't charged me as they said they haven't found or fixed the problem...
The problem here in England is that all of the independant 'Harley' shops are small one man outfits, but their labour charges are half the price of the official dealerships; so it is cheaper to go to them, but they don't seem to have the manpower to work extensively on one bike.
Not being mechanical (or electrical) myself I will probably have to wait now until after my upcoming wedding and take it to an official dealership. Sadly my husband to be is not yet fully indoctrinated into the whole Harley thing... I'll have to work on that!
I will take your posting with me and hope that I will sound like I know what I am talking about - that way they are less likely to treat me like an idiot (which I probably am)
Thanks again
Alison








