In an effort to continue my fight to control engine temeratures, I've tried something a bit different from the usual practice of adding an oil cooler (done), oil cooler fan (attempted and abandoned), or engine fan (too expensive and unreliable). One cause of heat is lean A/F mixtures, but to maximize mileage the mixtures need to remain somewhat lean, and it is an exercise in compromise finding a happy medium. So, why not just have two maps you can switch to on the fly? Well, DynoJet makes an add-on gadget for the PCIII called a Multi-function Hub, and among other things it can attach a map switch to do just that. I decided this might be a worthwhile project, so I ordered the hub and switch combo (HUB-002) from Fuel Moto. You can see the hub at the top of the first photo (red colored module).

You must have software v3.1.8 or higher and firmware v2.1.2 or higher for this hub to work. The instructions are simple and straightforward, and in no time you can have it connected and working. What was difficult was finding a place for the switch, as the handlebar mount works only with 7/8"-diameter handlebars and standard HD handlebars are 1". The switch attaches to the handlebar bracket with two small screws and nuts, and there simply isn't a good way to mount this switch anywhere on my SG, or at least I couldn't find one. So, I remembered the saddlebag guards are 7/8" in diameter, and I found a place to mount them between the left side cover and saddlebag guard bags. This makes installation easier since you don't need to run the wires under the tank to the fairing or handlebars. I picked the left side for two reasons: (1) My left hand is most likely to be free and (2) to remove the side cover the switch must be removed first. I access the right side frequently accessing PCIII maps but almost never remove the left side cover.

I installed the original map obtained from Fuel Moto as Map 2 in the PC software, and my leaned-out map as Map 1. The latter map is leaned considerably in the take-off range (1k-2k @ 2-20% throttle) and cruise range (2k-3k @ 5-10% throttle). I've also advanced the ignition timing a bit in the cruise range. With the switch activated and you select "2 Maps" in the configuration menu, you will be prompted prior to any "Get Map" or "Send Map" operation to select Map 1 or Map 2. To determine which is assigned to which switch position, you simply start the software and the map that is automatically pulled from the PCIII is the map assigned to that switch position.

As a test, I took a ride today in 90° temps, first heating the bike up on I-10 with Map 1, the leaner of the two. Oil temps got up to 205° on the highway, heating up to 220° when traffic was first encountered. I have seen as high as 230° oil temps in heavy traffic and 93° weather in the past using this map. I switched to Map 2 and noticed that oil temps slowly began going down as long as I was moving. At 0% TP both maps are set to "0", which according to one source is a 12:1 A/F ratio with the O² eliminators connected, so at idle there will be no difference between the two maps. Off-idle the richer A/F of Map 2 starts coming into play, and even though I looped through the heavy traffic three times, temps decreased to about 205° as long as I was moving, even if moving slowly. Possibly the only weak point I see here is that there is no way to improve cooling when the bike is idling, and for long periods of idling this is not a solution. But in typical traffic congestion I think it is one option to consider, in addition to adding an oil cooler and using synthetic oil.


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Excellent write up. Thanks for documenting this so well. Nice installation too.

Let me ask a question about your motivation for the 2 maps? You want the two maps so you can get better gas mileage when heat isn't a problem and you're just looking for good mileage cruising, and then you want the original to get decreased temps? Do you also get increased performance with the richer AFR?

I just bought a 07 EGC (same color as your SG) and I'm now in the process of pulling the trigger on the pipes/PCIII and AC. Still trying to decide on the pipes and AC. Mileage isn't real important to me, but it doesn't hurt to have the option.

 

I found that any map you devise is a compromise. One that maximizes mileage and/or pollutes less may cause the engine to run too hot in traffic, and enrichening to cool it down affects mileage adversely. I thought having two maps was the solution, so when they came up with this option I thought about it for a week or two, then bought it. Will mileage savings make up for the $140 pricetag? I doubt it, but it's more functional than bling.

This option isn't for everyone, and if you don't ride a lot and you're not interested in tweaking the last smidgeon of mileage into it with no heat penalty then you're probably better off putting the money somewhere else. I do a lot of riding and keep a bike longer than most, and I'm interested in maximizing mileage yet not compromising the engine's durability. Besides, I can't leave a motorcycle, car, or computer alone. Sometimes this interference has a favorable result, sometimes not.

 

Bob, as much as you like to tinker you should really look into the TMax. If you keep piggybacking hardware on that scoot, your gonna need a 7th gear. Interesting write-up.

 

Please don't tell me they make a 7-speed tranny now. I want one.

I expected someone to say how **** this project was, which is true, or that I have to much time on my hands, which is probable. You didn't, but you're thinking it. I would love to have a T-Max, but don't want to fork over $700+ when I already have something that works well. It would certainly solve my problem of finding a map for the cam I want to install, as there is none now for the PCIII, and although a dyno tune is possible I don't want to spend $300 for that either.

The next mod will probably be cams, probably Andrews 26H's, as that isn't expensive and is easy to install. Again, need a map first, hoping Fuel Moto dynos a bike like mine with that cam. Still a chance I won't do it, though, as the bike runs quite well enough now. If it ain't broke.... Well, I've violated that enough already.

 

My suggestion of the TMax was 2 fold....one because you like to get the most from your bike and the fact you actually ride your bike alot which is a good thing. The adjustments and controlthe TMax gives YOU I believe you'd welcome. Second, expounding on the fact that you actually RIDE your bike and not put it on the shelf and look at it occassionally, I worry about the integrity ofeach PCB(computer board) in all that hardware you have hooked up in such a tight spot. Extreme temps in conjunction with vibration are bound to take a toll on that and I'd hate for you to be in the middle of BFE if it happens. I envy your curiousity and ingenuity, and am only making a suggestion, again, as I think the TMax is something that would keep your interest very high for a while with an economical benefit as lagniappe. Either way, I always enjoy reading your replies. They actually have sustenance.[sm=smiley20.gif]

EDIT: when you get bored, download the .pdf of the TMax at their website and give it a lookover at the features. Tell me what you think.

Geeez, I sound like a TMax salesman, which I am by NO MEANS,just suggesting and the fact I own one and so far love it.

 

I did DL the T'max PDF earlier and I'm impressed with it. Had they had the AutoTune when I bought the SG I would've select it over the PCIII, I'm sure. I still have a problem with the cost, which is exorbitant considering I have a setup now that is very satisfactory. I could sell the PCIII, but I would undoubtedly realize a loss on it as a used part.

As for the relibability of multiple componentry, I don't see a problem with it. If the hub dies it can be simply unplugged and the PCIII reverts to the default map. If the PCIII fails I can still run off the bike's EFI, and although it would be the stock setup (no Stage 1) and very lean with the O2 sensors connected, retaining the PCIII's O2 eliminators would keep the EFI out of 14.7 (closed-loop) mode. My experience with this type of componentry in the past has been excellent.

What would be nice about the T'Max is that I could install my cam now rather than wait 'til a map is available. I'm really in no big hurry on that, though.

Questions:

(1) Can cold mode be adjusted on the T'Max? IOW, can it's handling of A/F be changed when the engine isn't fully warmed up? I'd love to play with cold mode A/F to find more economical settings. I believe you can do this with SERT.

(2) Can idle speed be adjusted?

 

Hey Iclick,
Are you still running the Dynojet HUB? I am thinking of doing the same thing and even adding a wide band sensor into the mix.

I am interested to see what else you are tweaking on the EFI