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Diagnostic code troubleshooting

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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 08:33 AM
  #1  
jcorso11's Avatar
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Default Diagnostic code troubleshooting

2009 street glide
107"
rear cylinder smoking, put in new rings. no other work done....

Put motor back together, cranks over great.

pushrods are adjusted

codes are as follows, after clearing and recrank

p0113
p0118
p0120
p0220
p0222
p0374
p1003
p1510
p1511
p2101
p2127
p2135
p2138


any ideas! ;-)
 
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 11:02 PM
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CodeDescriptionSourceP0113Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High (Bank 1)SAEP0118Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High SAEP0120Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor "A" CircuitSAEP0220Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" CircuitSAEP0222Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Low SAEP0374Timing Reference High Resolution Signal "A" No PulsesSAEP2101Throttle Actuator "A" Control Motor Circuit Range/PerformanceSAEP2127Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "E" Circuit LowSAEP2135Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" / "B" Voltage CorrelationSAEP2138Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "D" / "E" Voltage CorrelationSAEP1003System Relay Contacts OpenHD SpecificP1510EFI Limited Performance ModeHD SpecificP1511EFI Powwer Management ModeHD Specific

The most likely cause of all of these failures would be a poor ground for the computer. You may want to check all of your ground wires to make sure absolutely that they are attached to the frame and that they arre making a good clean connection to the frame of the bike. The second most likely problem would be that the IAT, ECT, TPS, CKP and IAC all share a common reference wire and that this wire is either Open or is Shorted to ground. But code P1003 argues against this and in favor of the grounding problem. The ground is the only thing that is common to all of these sensors and outputs.

FYI, there are over 4,000 mandated SAE OBD (On Board Diagnostic) Trouble codes . . . and then there can be Manufacturer specific Trouble codes as well.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 11:07 PM
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So much for trying to copy and paste excel files . . . so let's try this:
 

Last edited by Bluehighways; Oct 27, 2010 at 11:04 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 12:58 AM
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Hey,

Thanks.... So, aside from the obvious looking around.... Can you help guide me to finding my problem?

Where should I begin?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 05:52 AM
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I assume it ran well before it was taken apart so I would retrace all you did and ck all the wiring. Dissconnect the ECM and the affected sensors and ck for short to gnd on that circut. if there is then you need to hunt it down. I have seen a shorted sensor do the same thing when they are all joined on the same circut. Sounds more like a missing gnd or shorted wire to me
 
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 09:18 AM
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Check your ECU Sensor Ground Circuit.

If this were on my 2010 FLSTC:

There are actually two Ground Circuits involved with the ECU: 1.) The Sensors ground circuit to the ECU and 2.) The ECU Sensors Ground Circuit to the frame of the bike (Chassis Ground)

1.) The Sensors involved all ground through the ECU via a Black Wire with a White Tracer (BK/W) to terminal #26 of the ECU. There are many Harness Splices in this Ground Circuit . . . but because the ECU is condemning all of the circuits . . . IF . . . this circuit is the problem . . . the problem will probably be an Open Circuit between the ECU terminal and the first splice.

2.) The ECU Sensors Ground Circuits are connected to Chassis Ground through two wires. One Ground Wire is for any solenoids or relays the ECU controls (Ex Fuel Pump, Ignition Coil, Fuel Injectors, etc.) and the other Ground Wire is for the ECU's Sensors. You will need to check both of them because they come together in a Harness Splice somewhere between the ECU and Chassis Ground. The ECU Ground Wire color code is a Black Wire with a Green Tracer (BK/GN). The BK/GN Ground Wires use ECU Terminals #10 and #28. IF this is where the problem is it will be an Open Circuit.

3.) All of the Bikes Ground Wires connect to Chassis Ground at two metal Ring Terminals near the battery that I can see when I remove the seat. Ground Ring Terminal #1 is called the Dirty Ground and uses solid Black color coded wires. It is called Dirty because it is the ground for non-ECU circuits not because it is actually physically dirty. Ground #2 is the Clean Ground and uses BK/GN wires. FYI the BK/GN wire circuit also shows up at the Diagnostic Connector which would help me in the diagnosis process.


First: If all this is doesn't make a whole lot of sense, It is either because I don't know how to explain this very well -or- the reader might be well served to find a good local technician . . . preferably one who has a copy of the Wiring Diagram for the bike, a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM), and the knowledge of how to use them both. For what in the end will probably seem like a pretty simple problem . . . messing about with this could take a whole lot of time and might even create more problems than it solves. It might well cost a good bit chasing ghosts and replacing parts that are OK as well.

Second: This is my CYA part . . . Remember that I started this by saying if this were my 2010 FLSTC . . . I know what my bike has because I bought a copy of MoCo's Electrical Diagnostic Manual for my bike ($60) . . . I wouldn't automatically assume that the color codes or wiring terminals on your bike are the same as mine, unless your bike is also a 2010 FLSTC. They might be, and they probably are . . . but them again . . .
 
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