I have posted previously regarding my current no spark/no start issue. Bike is an 07 FLHP. Just did a cam swap. Andrews 54h's; SE perfect fit pushrods (+.030); TP roller tipped rockers. Did the swap by the book. Tools from George and Jim's. I have compression. Nothing else was done. Mechanical aspect of swap went well. Engine spins freely with no noises. Oil pressure light drops off after a few spins so I assume I have pressure. Gas in tank and fuel pump cycles. All other things work on the bike just like the day I bought it. I don't have an alarm. All the fuses are good. No, I did not switch the spark plug leads. Coil tested good by dealership. Replaced CKP. No spark. No start. I have have power to the coil. I pulled the codes...three of them...P0374 CKP sensor sync error. Replaced CKP. No difference. By the by, both CKP have resistance of a little over 900 ohms, if that helps. P1351 front ignition coil open/low efi. P1354 rear ignition coil open/low. Yet the dealer tested my coil and said "otay". Now before you gaf me all I wanted to do with stock ECM is to get the bike started and confirm it runs before switching out to TMAT. If I scrambled the eggs on the stock ECM, I don't want to double up on the TMAT.

Now...if the stock ECM took a crap, would it not spit out a code? If the ECM crapped, would the engine spin and everything else work appropriately?

If I have to trailer the bike to the dealer I will, but that is almost 200 miles one way. I spoke with a tech (very very helpful) and we walked through this. His final suggestion was
"new battery". I put my battery on the charger to make sure it was (what I thought) was good to go. His comment was that if the battery was "marginal", the starter would pretty much pull all the available juice off the system and this could lead to a no spark/incredibly weak spark. I told him I had tried to get the thing to cough using ether but to no avail.

He offered a way of quick testing the battery, which I will try this weekend. I have voltage, I suppose it could be down on amperage. He also recommended checking all the grounds, etc. Which I will do. But...bike ran fine before swap. All I did was d/c the battery, pull the tank, pull the rocker covers/rockers and do the swap per the book. Not rocket science here.

Sooo.....I have a tough time believing I am the first rube to go down this road, but I guess it should not surprise me. I have searched/poured through every forum. Including Oz. Nobody else has experienced this?

It appears that I now have a spare CKP, a good coil, and no spark in the holes.

WTF am I missing? Is there some sort of electronic fail safe (ie. "no oil pressure) that trips something in the ECM that shuts off ignition? If push comes to shove, can I pull the ECM and take it to dealer to be tested or does it have to be on bike for basic testing?

Bike is sitting on lift. It looks good at the front of the garage. A 700+ pound paper weight.
No, I wasn't drinking when I did the swap. After the damn thing would not start....that is a different story. No I did not d/c any electrical connectors other than battery. Yes, I hooked the battery back up.

P1351 and P1354....what the hell do these indicate in light of the fact that the coil tested good per dealer.

Anybody who can throw me a bone, it would be much appreciated. If not, I am going to have to figure out how to get it to the dealer. And if/when they tell me what the fix is I am going to be more embarrased/irritated than I am now. Obviously, this is self inflicted. I can live with that. But what the hell is "it"?

 

Maybe you should check to make sure you didn't pinch any wiring in the process. If you have hard faults (trouble codes), then those are your starting points. The techs usually have a troubleshooting tree to work through for any of the codes/conditions. You have to start from the beginning and work through each step to locate the problem. If you could get a hold on those troubleshooting trees (maybe they are in the electrical manual..not sure), then use them. That's what the techs at the dealer are gonna do. Chances are its one thing that's creating all of your problems and throwing new parts at it are only gonna cost you more money and maybe not lead you to a problem such as a broken wire. Good luck

 

Thank you for your reply. I agree with you. I do not want to randomly replace parts for grins and giggles. The only issue I have is that doing the swap did not entail working around any wiring other than disconnecting the battery, the coil and the dash. Did not touch or d/c any other harness. As a general statement I am fairly meticulous with this stuff. Obviously, I did something. Just trying to figure it out. The problem I have now is that the trouble codes I have cited are essentially limited to the CKP (which I replaced and still have no spark) and the coil (which tested by HD certified wrench who says it is OK). No other codes have appeared.

 

Check the wiring to the CKP, find out what voltages (how much and what type) are supposed to be on what wires and verify.

 

Don't know that there is supposed to be any votage to the CKP. My understanding was that it generates a signal. I will research. I am going to do a point to point check from the ECM connector to respective item based on wiring diagram. Which I do have. Shall see what shakes out of the tree. Have a good one, my friend.

 

Here is the latest. Bought the SE master code reader. Plugged it in and got the same codes that the bike gave me. Nothing new except the code reader told me they were historic. At least I could erase them from the bike using the code reader. Erased codes. Tried to start the bike. No spark. No start. No codes. No codes. No new codes. No start.
Having said that I would not recommend buying the code reader. Just my .02.

Get out the wiring diagram. Start going point to point with Fluke DVOM. Disconnect the ECM. I check the continuity of wiring from the appropriate pin-outs to the coil and to the CKP. Continuity intact. No shorts. Check the grounds. All is good. So from the perspective of a "pinched wire"...I don't buy it.

At this point, I pull the tank, the rocker boxes and cam case cover. I was concerned that I may have screwed up the mechanical aspect of the cam swap. NOT. All the timing marks line up where they ought to be with the front cylinder at TDC. Engine spins freely. Button it all back up. Engine still spins freely. Still have no spark. I am still betting the ECM took a powder and that is pretty much it. how? Hell if I know. Nothing else explains this and nobody has given me info to the contrary.

I am more or less at a loss and unless a miracle happens tomorrow, I will put it all back together and trailer it in. Frustrating to say the least.

 

Keep us posted, you've got us real curious now. Hope it turns out to be something simple. Good luck.

 

Here is the latest scam. Start from the beginning. Wasted my Sunday tearing down the rocker boxes and pulled the cam chest cover. Rotated engine by hand. Llined up cam timing mark with crank. Pulled the gears. Cams are exactly lined up wear they ought to be. Front piston was at TDC. OK...put it all back together. Wife is not happy about this.
Hook up battery. Spin the engine. No spark. No start. NO CODES. With master code reader.At this point I am thinking ECM still took a powder. So I think...WTF...d/c battery. Pull the ECM. Install TMAT per instructions. Hold my breath....cross my fingers...spin the engine. No spark. No start. Only a couple of things come to mind. I toasted the ECM. Now I toasted the TMAT. What are the chances??? I have a better chance of winning the Powerball on Wednesday than that scenario. With that confusion, everything points back to the coil. That the mechanic told me "was good".
Sooooooo.....I don't know what else to make of this. I am going to slap the stock ECM/
O2 sensors back in and .......bite the bullet and buy a coil. I really hate to throw parts at this thing, but the only codes I had were linked to the coil. Crazy........

 

I think when your timing marks are lined up the rear cylinder should be at TDC.

 

Lonewolf: Maybe that is the case. But, when I have the crank gear and the cam drive gear lined up like your picture, pull the gears and chain, the marks on the cams are opposing each other. I have checked that twice now and really don't feel like pulling the cam exhaust and cam chest again. Although I am getting pretty darn good at it. If the timing marks all line up at the appropriate time while the crank is rotating...also, I would assume that if I had the cams installed incorrectly and "out of time" that I would most likely have valve(s) hitting piston, no? Thanks for posting the pic. it looks familiar.