On top of what Dennis added, the nice thing is you can do both. As I get more time with my bike and the PV, I've narrowed down where I run closed loop: 1500-3000 rpm and 30-50 Kpa. I increment out of closed loop outside of that. Not sure I'm to my final settings yet, but we have endless options and flexibility to dial in the way we want.

 

Yes I did, my apologies... things can be easily misconstrued...

 

I just have one question about AT and WB sensors. If you are running say a 13.8 afr, will the AT do real time changes to the ecm using the WB sensors?? I know it does while data logging but then you have to calc, make a new tune and flash to the ecm.

 

No, it will not do real time changes to the ecm. The log has to be collected, changes calculated and applied to a new version of the map which is then reloaded to the ECM. The PV data logging is collecting data to build a closer map, it isn't actually controlling the ECM.

 

Thanks for explaining, now I can't seem to find where I can look at my injector duty cycle. Do I have to log this specifically or can I find it in my tables like the ve's Thanks...

 

That is the way I thought it worked. Thanks

 

Hey guys, I'm a new PV user, and have a 2007 EGC (throttle by cable) with 40K miles and it has a basic FuelMoto stage 1 with a K&N and Supertrapp SE slip-ons. A real basic bike and I'm very happy with it. I also have a Jagg Deluxe oil cooler (5 row deal) and a McCowan oil temp guage. Here in New England with that basic set-up I would run right at 200'F doing my usual casual touring of NH and Vermont all day long. In really hot weather I'd be up to maybe 215'F tops. It also had lot's of nice grunt and I was very happy. I could throttle on at anything above 2000K rpm and the bike would respond nicely even in 6th gear. (prior to the stage one this would have needed to be 2500 rpm.)

I previously had a Powercommander USBIII running a FM tune and I was perfectly happy with it, but I blew a ECM fuse and then once that was replaced the PC would only fire one cylinder. A replaced PC did the same thing. A lengthy discussion with Jaime brought be to the PV solution, and I've now got the PV flash installed that Jaime provided for the bike. It looks like a pretty basic tune and I do have the stock O2 sensors reconnected for this.

So the bike is now running good and power is good, but the bike runs significantly hotter than it did previously. I'm running at least 220'F to 230'F on the oil temp guage but it feels like the head temp is even much warmer than it was prior with the PCIIIusb.

Almost all of the map, except that low end and high end is set to 14.6AFR with some 14.5 at mid range rpm. Jaime tells me that the 14.6 is actually richer than that due to CLB setting set at 700.

>>> "700-780 which would be approx 14.38-14.45 AFR which is the low (rich) limit for closed loop. You can also richen the AFR table as well, however it would be open loop like your PC III."

I am guessing this is the cause my my bike running hotter than it did previously. Jaime seems to feel that running closed loop is a preferred method, but personally I feel like a richer AFR to run cooler and potentially even more grunt would be preferable for me.

So my questions are:

1. If I get into this autotune thing, am I going to get much better than what I already have with the CLB being set already to the rich limit?
2. If I decide to leave the Closed loop mode, am I correct in asuming I should disconnect the O2 sensors and make changes to the AFR working incrementally downard with the AFR table into lower numbers into the 14.0 range?
3. What do I set the CLB table at then, or maybe it doesn't matter?
4. Are there other canned maps for this non Closed Loop mode I might find someplace?
5. Should I go the wideband sensor route? What is the approximate cost to go the wideband route and do the Autontune thing that way? Would that provide me much benefit with my basic stage 1 bike?
6. Another possibility is to import my previous PCIIIusb map and try running that. I tried importing this once but the software just hung on me.. but I probably didn't have some table created someplace or something. Can't say I'm impressed with the documentation.

Any path forward you guys would recommend? I'm not opposed to doing the Autotune exercise with my standard 02 sensors, but I don't know why I'd want to if I'm still going to be forced into running lean "ECO" like with a hot bike. I don't really worry gas mileage and would prefer a cooler running bike.

 

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You could and I think that is what iClick did

see note below

Steve

I can tell from your post that you have a good understanding of what is going on and your description of CLB is accurate. You can make the bike run a little richer by changing the Closed Loop Bias but you are still running in closed loop around 14.6 AFR. I had the exact same experience as you on my 2008. Ran well, good power but still a little hotter than the previous tuner. I went to an open loop map with the cruise range set from 13.8 to 14.2. For me, I get better power, good mpg and my bike runs 15 degrees or so cooler. I live in SC and cooler is definitely better!

If you have done the tuning with the stock O2 sensors to accurate set the VEs in your current map, then you could adjust the AFR values and give the richer open loop map a try. One of the good things about the PV is the ability to quickly switch between maps. I would be happy to show you what my AFR table looks like if you are interested. I tried to answer your questions above.

 

I'd like to see your AFR map. Might even try it on the trike. Thank for the offer.

 

I wouldn' mind seeing your AFR map as well just for educational purposes. I'm still getting some decel popping and lowering the DE by 20% did make any real change. My 20kpa column is 13.0 about halfway up the RPM range then 12.5 the rest of the way. Not sure how much I should try enriching it or whether or not I need to tweak my 27kpa column which 14.6 or 14.5 most of the way up. I'm at work right now so I don't have access to my tune right now.