Boston Chris...I have seen your recent postings and understand your frustration, but something seems wrong. You should be getting better results from your autotunes.
I'm not sure what you're running or your current set-up, but have you changed the exhaust system? The only time I've seen problems like this is when the O2 sensors are reversed, or the O2 sensor bungs don't allow the sensors to read properly (or possibly a bad O2 sensor).
What year/model bike are you riding?, and what exhaust are u running?

Something's not right.

 

I was only getting knock activity on the front cylinder according to the logs. I never heard it. Sometimes it would be 2, 5 or 8*. I used autotune to eventually dial it out. I make a special tuning calibration to be used when I enable an autotune. I add 4* timing to all areas before enabling. When you autotune the process removes 4*. Run the datalog and then use the log tuner software to find the amount of spark removed and follow the directions to make a new calibration. Just make sure the 4* you added have been taken away before using that tune. It's a lengthy process to remove the spark as the program tends to remove timing in small increments.

I know I didn't explain the whole process, but hopefully you get the gist of it.

 

I would disagree with having the sensors close to the collector or closer to the end of single pipes. In that location they would be measuring gases loaded with backflow pollution. Closer to the ports will give a much more accurate indication of exhaust gas composition for each individual cylinder, which is what they're supposed to do.

 

i am not educated on this subject but i would/could easily be convinced with this line of reasoning.

the reason..... i have a habit of placing my hand at the exhaust on different bikes and some pipes really pull in between pushes, kinda like a plunger is being moved in and out.
that and (i think) i could see it on my tuning runs with my last exhaust.

but again, i am not educated on this subject.

 

Delta....Got it. i have seen this method used before. i have not een the log tuner software but i have read the post early on in this thread and tey did a very good explaination of it. So you make perfect sence as to what ya did. Thanks so much.

 

nhrider.... yes i would have agreed with you if i had not seen reversed O2 sensors first hand. my friend purchased a 2010 roag glide from seacoast harley and had issues right off the bat. that is what we found was reversed O2 sensors. So i know exactly what happens with that. mine are ok.

After 4 runs it is now where i thought it should be.Now my bike is starting to run good. It is almost like mine seemed to be very slow in VE correcting. What worked for me was my last run i put my wife on with me. Did a tuning run 2 up and the VE seemed to make a leap in the right direction. trust me i looked at everything.....2x.... i thought for sure i did something wrong. I bought a service man. and read it so much i think i was dizzy.

just to answer your question though....my ride is a 2012 street glide. it was stock. Meaning i did not have the dealer do anything to it ( im not a screamin eagle fan ) but clean it. I got the fuelmoto 2-1-2,jackpot 4inch,fuelmoto A/C and the powervision. Did i think this would make my bike a indy racer? No i just know i rode it stock for a bit when i got it and it was a sewing machine. My first AT run was ok. 2nd is where i started getting the idea im going backwards. 3rd....minor improvement....now after the 4th.....bing....there it is.

Im gonna do another run today. weather looks good and my roadglide friend is about to start AT on his bike. He and i did that wounded vets ride out of Boston harley yesterday and right at the end his bike shut down. Like it was vapor locked and it was hot....very hot. mine was hotter than it should have been also.So i will have to figure that out. he is running a base map from fuelmoto but never did any tuning.So....today we are gonna try to get him a step in the right direction.

a couple more runs on my bike and i think i will be ready to do some logging and look at the timing. Thanks to everyone that answered my questions. I think this forum is great. it opened up new ideas and kept me from driving my bike off the pier...

 

BostonChris - Might want to look at the eitms on temp settings. Mine were set at 500* in the tune I loaded from the vendor. I set it to 284 which I think was the stock value.

 

delta....yes sir i did change it. my map it was set to 500 as well. i lowered it to 295/ I have always thought the EITMS comes on too much. so i tried upping it a bit. I might have to lower it down a bit. i just thought it was kind of a close on off because my off i believe was set to something like 274. After yesterday i found out it does not bring the temp down much when it kicks in so i think i will bring it down to were you sugested. After a couple more VE runs i might try taking my A/F from 14.4 to like 14.2 and see how much that help. i don thave high hopes as i have seen a few posts here that say it would only lower temps by like 5 to 10 deg. but it is worth a shot.

 

I have run into an odd issue with my PV. I have been running a map from Fuel Moto that works well. I had loaded the file to the bike and then pulled a copy of it back off the bike( i did this after several days of riding) I have not done any auto tune runs. I loaded copy of tune to get the additional field that show up in the WinPV software like Speedometer calibration.

I was comparing this tune to some auto tune runs I have done in the past.
I noticed that when I loaded the compare file that the EITMS on Temperature was different between the 2. I have not changed this. The copy of the tune that I loaded back out of the EMC shows an on temp of 590F the original tune was 284F.

I also noticed there were changes in the air fuel table and the VE tables. I did nothing to alter any of these. The AFR table had changes +- .001 not a big deal. The VE tables show changes of +.2 to -.2 not a big deal.

I have not done any AutoTune runs at all when this map was loaded.

This morning I did a test I took the original tune from Fuel Moto that has the EITMS on temp at 284F and loaded it back to the EMC. Cleared learned fuel offsets and did the power cycle on the bike. Then I loaded a copy of the tune back to the PV and brought it in and attached it to the computer and loaded it into the WinPV software. I then compared it to the original file I just downloaded and sure enough the EITMS on temp had changed to 590F and the VE tables showed deltas of +.2 to -.2 and the AFR table had changes of +-.001

Has anyone else seen this? If the values are actually being changed that is not good and what else could it be changing. Is it that there is an issue when they read the tune back? Bottom line is if you read it out and do not check your EITMS temp could be set to 590F this is a big problem. I checked and did not see any place in the Quick to change the EITMS setting that might show it is corret on the EMC

I will be calling Dyno Jet on Monday and seeing what they say.

Right know I am not happy with the fact that changes are being made to a tune just by reading it back from the EMC to the Power Vision. And that it is changing a safety feature to a very unsafe level.

Hopefully this is just on my PV and not an issue for everyone. And yes all my software/firmware is up to date.

I am curious if anyone else has ever noticed things like this

 

Boston Chris - I am of the belief that the eitms does not cool the engine but slows the rate of increase of the temperature. With this thought it makes sense to have it set to have lowered it from where you had it.

Disclaimer - In my opinion.