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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
Keep believing that and start running your bike WOT on a nice warm day. You're just NOT getting your head wrapped around this AT ALL. You won't be in closed loop at (Example) WOT and 5000 rpms. Why would you even begin to think that your VE's are correct in that scenario? The VE's need to verified in those areas BEFORE you start playing in that field. I'm gonna leave you alone regarding this because it's obvious you have it all sorted out. Hopefully we don't see you posting in the engine section asking how the holes found a way into your pistons.
between you and wurk truk there are some very educational posts here but i have a few questions.... one at a time
how would you go about verifying VE's in those areas before playing in that range?
run to 5000 or so gradually without WOT?
Did you see an AFR increase before it started to skip fire? I set mine to come on at 310F. It went into skip fire mode, I could hear it. But it didn't increase AFR before it did that. just curious if anyone sat there and watched what it did throughout the process.
Jim...no i was not watching the AFR on the gauges...or should i say i do not have the AFR set to monitor if you can monitor it. I think i have mine set to 295 on and 275 off.
im going to bring my A/F down a bit anyway. it is 14.4 and my exhaust in my opnion is a bit grey on the deposits. i was thinkin of setting it to 14.2 and then take a peek at the exhaust deposits on the muffler and watch the temp again. I know this will not bring the temp down much but it may help a smidge. Bike runs fine though so im not worried.
Keep believing that and start running your bike WOT on a nice warm day. You're just NOT getting your head wrapped around this AT ALL. You won't be in closed loop at (Example) WOT and 5000 rpms. Why would you even begin to think that your VE's are correct in that scenario? The VE's need to verified in those areas BEFORE you start playing in that field. I'm gonna leave you alone regarding this because it's obvious you have it all sorted out. Hopefully we don't see you posting in the engine section asking how the holes found a way into your pistons.
Jim... the PV AT function disables PE. So why would it not be correct if you will not go into the power enrichment table and your A/F table is set to 14.6 across the board?
Like i said i called Jamie and he even agrees it is going to get data in all areas hit on the table when Autotuning. I trust Jamies answers and i believe him. Im not saying your wrong or right. So far so good.
Did you see an AFR increase before it started to skip fire? I set mine to come on at 310F. It went into skip fire mode, I could hear it. But it didn't increase AFR before it did that. just curious if anyone sat there and watched what it did throughout the process.
I had a chance to log what happens when my 2012 Trike enters heat management (I have it set to 284*). Though I can't track AFR, I can track CLI and noticed the following: For a very short time (about 45 seconds) the CLIs fluctuate between 103 & 95. At 289* the Rear CLI goes to 95.3 and remains constant. The Front CLI drops as well but continues to fluctuate around the same 95.3. You probably can't pinpoint as exact AFR value with this but it does show the system at work.
does anyone know how i would adjust timing for idle only?
closed throttle spark
then change the main timing table to match the closed throttle.
you change the main table timing in the kpa area you idle at.
if you idle at say 35 kpa . then change your timing in the 30 35 kpa and 40 kpa area, 750rpm to 1500 rpms.
then work on tip in.
closed throttle spark
then change the main timing table to match the closed throttle.
you change the main table timing in the kpa area you idle at.
if you idle at say 35 kpa . then change your timing in the 30 35 kpa and 40 kpa area, 750rpm to 1500 rpms.
then work on tip in.
thanks strokerjlk
i want to try working my bike/tune as stailjim and wurk truk are describing, figured i would start my learning curve and experimenting with idle.
I had a chance to log what happens when my 2012 Trike enters heat management (I have it set to 284*). Though I can't track AFR, I can track CLI and noticed the following: For a very short time (about 45 seconds) the CLIs fluctuate between 103 & 95. At 289* the Rear CLI goes to 95.3 and remains constant. The Front CLI drops as well but continues to fluctuate around the same 95.3. You probably can't pinpoint as exact AFR value with this but it does show the system at work.
What i did was start the bike and watch the AFR on the screen. I watched Set AFR and Warm Up AFR. While the ECM came out of the WU table it showed AFR 13.0 and WU 1.6. As the Warm Up AFR came down the Set AFR came up porportionately, to where Set AFR was 14.6 and Warm Up AFR was 0. All good with that. Then as I came up in temp to 310 I was looking to see the AFR come down, then hear the skip fire kick in. Skip fire definitely kicked in but I didn't see any AFR drop. Maybe it's something that happens in the background and we just can't see it. Or I need to look for another way to actually see it happening.
This was more out of curiousity than anything. The nice thing about the PV is one can permanently mount it and be able to monitor temps. If it starts getting up towards 300 it's probably a good time to get out of traffic.
Jim, if you had the CFS fans you'd never have to worry about traffic again. The fans are that good. The seller is a stand up guy that stands behind his product. When I was doing the EITMS I let the temps get up to 315 and then turned the fans on. I'd say within 5 minutes the temps were down to 274. I wanted to hear the EITMS turn off and it did at that temp.
i want to try working my bike/tune as stailjim and wurk truk are describing, figured i would start my learning curve and experimenting with idle.
You should be able to get the idle area squared away in your driveway or up and down the street a couple times. Let it sit and rack up 99 hits idling. Then do some slow take offs in 1st, 2nd and gently in 3rd. You should be able to hit 3 or 4 columns out to the right and 1500 rpms pretty easy.
This just my experience, but it seems to rack up the hits easier and faster above 2500 rpms. So you might want to really focus on getting those areas below 2500 with plenty of hits, maxed at 99 if you can. Maybe the first 2 times out. Then by the 5th AT run it should all pretty much fall into place.
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