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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 11:12 PM
  #3801  
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Uncle Chester
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From: Big ol Titties
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As far as the timing in log tuner when I go to the spark knock tables I get values of .6, 1.2, .3
Is this the amount of timing that was pulled? Not 100% sure I'm reading the values correctly.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 11:15 PM
  #3802  
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46u
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Originally Posted by stailjim61
Just noticed your map. If you hit every state on the same bike that's serious bragging rights. I don't think many people can say they've done that. I think it's pretty cool!
Thank you
I still have a few more states and I all so have 6 Canada provinces. Only reason I do not have them all now is only do to my situation but lord willing I will have them all with in the next year. Then I will start working on more Canada provinces.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 05:35 PM
  #3803  
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stailjim61
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Originally Posted by Uncle Chester
As far as the timing in log tuner when I go to the spark knock tables I get values of .6, 1.2, .3
Is this the amount of timing that was pulled? Not 100% sure I'm reading the values correctly.
I believe that's the correction the software is making versus how much the ECM is actually pulling out. How much the ECM pulled during a knock is shown on the log. The ECM usually starts pulling out 2 degrees and then you'll see it feeding timing back. Example: You're table may be 1/2 degree too advanced...the ECM normally pulls out 2 degrees...and then gets back to the table if the knock disappears. So the ECM is playing it safe. The corrected value the software is making will show up in your new tune. 6 of one half dozen of the other.

I probably do timing a little different than most and just use the logs. I review the logs for knock retard and then pull 1 degree in the cell/s the knock occurred. If the log shows timing pulled right on the border of two cells (rpm or map or both) I'll pull 1 degree in both cells. Hit save. Run another data log. If it pings I pull another degree, save. Rinse and repeat. I don't go through the entire "create a new map" process just to make one or two timing changes. How someone prefers to do it up to them. There's more than one way to skin a cat.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 11:28 PM
  #3804  
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rtuuji
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I will add that earlier today I smoothed these areas and turned of the Adaptive Control switch. The motor seemed to run much smoother at 3000 rpm. I don't think it was my imagination. However, I would like to use the learning ability of the ecm.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 11:09 AM
  #3805  
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HD Pilot
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I have noticed this instruction reading through the PV User Guide and was wondering if everybody is doing this reset procedure prior to Autotuning. I have not done it yet, but will on my next run. Anybody think this is very important, and why is it not mentioned in the Autotune User Guide? I know Adaptive Control is disabled during an Autotune, but is this reset prior to Autotuning necessary?

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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 01:48 PM
  #3806  
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Watchfuliz
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Per Jamie and FM, reset the trims. My understanding is it deletes stored trims so they do not influence the new tuning process.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 02:58 PM
  #3807  
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HD Pilot
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Originally Posted by Watchfuliz
Per Jamie and FM, reset the trims. My understanding is it deletes stored trims so they do not influence the new tuning process.
Thanks Watchfuliz, I knew you would be helping me instead of the other way because of all the riding you are getting in. DJ needs to put this in the Autotune User Guide.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 08:35 PM
  #3808  
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Crazylegs
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Originally Posted by stailjim61
Did you see the ECM pulling any timing out anywhere in your data logs? I don't think you need 45 degrees in all those cells with 45. Knock them down to 42. Not saying my table is the example to follow but your curve is similar. I'm pretty much at 42 as the highest in the 30 and 40 KPa columns at 2250 rpms. Then it tapers off as it goes to the right and bottom right corner. Every bike will be different though. Temps, gas quality, elevation. etc. Just play around with it. One could keep advancing but at some point you will peak out performance wise, and then start losing performance before it pings. Kind of like a bell curve. Without a dyno we wont know where the top of that bell curve is. So my thinking is to find out where it pings and then back it off 3 degrees to a safe zone. I know I won't be able to feel any difference dropping it a couple degrees but it's one of those better safe than sorry situations. My bike still runs fine if I yank 8 or 10 degrees out of it but I can definitely feel the difference. But to answer your question, look at the data logs. You will see the rpm and KPa that the ECM pulled timing and where it started feeding the timing back in. If you're hearing something when you take off the log will tell you if it's a timing issue. Those are the cells you want to back off a little in. Then data log it again. The logs are great because it may pull some timing that you don't hear. So let the logs be your ears. Use the cooler weather you have to learn the system and then when the middle of summer rolls around do a couple data log runs to check on things.
Thanks the information. I am not able to ride right now but I've been learning from your posts about reading the logs and applying them to improve the tune. Here is the other spark table I have that should be an improvement.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 08:53 PM
  #3809  
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Watchfuliz
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What mods on your bike Crazylegs? Maps are no good without all the details of the bike.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 07:59 PM
  #3810  
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Have been out of the loop for a while, and am curious as to others approach to decel popping. I added a little fuel at 0 throttle in the rpm ranges popping. Worked pretty well. I do get a little what I believe is known as gurgling now. Could be wrong on the gurgling. Sounds like smothering to me. Any other approaches? Thanks Kranky.
 
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