Power Vision Information Thread
Try to hit as many cells as you can...that will mean some lugging and high speed runs.
Last edited by nhrider1; Jun 24, 2013 at 07:26 AM. Reason: grammar
I know nothing about tuning so I bought this tuner for the auto-tune feature.
I've run AT around four times now. But I'm not sure if I'm even doing it right.
I read through the pdf that shipped with my unit but it doesn't clarify all of the steps.
Anyways here is the process I'm using so tell me if it's correct or not please;
1. Turn ignition to on, tuner boots up.
2. Select AT and 'enable AT' (it then asks me to select a map)
3. Select whichever is my latest map that is currently installed in ECM
4. Tuner loads the map and then reboots ECM followed by turning ignition off for 10 seconds.
5. (wait ten sec.) Start bike, tuner boots.
6. Go to AT and select 'Data Log' The data log comes on. (at this point I figure the AT feature is enabled and working.
7. Ride bike.
8. At end of ride, shut bike off (not touching the tuner at all)
9. Turn on ignition, tuner boots up.
10. select AT and then export learned.
11. Select slot to store new map, then exit.
12. select custom tune, select the tune I want to load and then 'flash'
13. After flash system asks to turn ignition off and wait ten sec.
From that point onward my new tune is installed and ready to go. I think my steps were correct. I'm a little unsure if step 5 & 6 are correct. Should I start the bike in step 5 before selecting the data log option in step 6? Or should I not start the bike untill the data log is running? But if I do this sometimes when I start the bike the tuner reboots anyway..
So am I doing this right?
Also I noticed that my gas mileage went down a little (which I expected) but I also noticed that my pipes are turning a yellowish color..on a area that never changes color, past my shields. I noticed this when I arrived at work.
One last question, does it matter what temp it is out doors when I use auto-tuner? In the morning its in the 50's/60's and in the afternoon its 80's/90's. Would it be better to tune when it's hotter out? Does it even matter?
Okay thanks for any input.
Last edited by WhiteNoise; Jun 24, 2013 at 11:27 AM.
Some you won't hear. Some minor pings won't be audible.
Mostly on the rear which is just the opposite of what happens around home or was before the heat moved in. My engine temp varied depending on condition, but ran between 256 - 270 most of the time. It did get up to 330 looking for a place to park in the bottom of Zion for 30 minutes, but cooled back to 270 on the ride back out.
My mpg was +/- .2 of the other riders with like bikes with me being consistently lower than the 110 CVO and even or up to .5 more than the 2013 RG with the same cams as mine. So I feel the fuel is pretty much right.
Looking at the logs, knock retards were a few 6* or less on the front and one 8* pull on the rear, but mostly 6* or less. There was not many of these total, but they were all interstate 70 80 mph loaded with headwind. High load riding. One such occasion happened when accelerating in 3rd gear. Also I seem to notice a lot of vibration in the bike when I got around 75 mph or above. I remember you saying something about timing causing that too.
Also I noticed the CLI was only changing when in the small closed loop area of the map. So am I right in assuming that CLI only works in CL? When it did change it was mostly 5% or less.
Yes it only works in CL. When in open loop it will show 100%.
I ran LT on my map when I got home using those logs, but I have not run the new map yet as I don't think the timing it pulled is correct. Front cyl had 6.5* pulled in 4K @ 70,80 kpa cells 2*&3* in the 3500 cells same kpa.
That may be the same event. It started pulling at 3500. Sensed it didn't pull enough and at 4000 contimued to pull timing. Thats exactly what it's supposed to do. So I'd start looking for a problem at the 3500 area. It doesn't sound like it's temp related if you were running 256/260 and even 270. Those temps are fine for 2 up and loaded.
Rear had 4*&2* in 60,70kpa 4K rpm with 1.8* to 2.1* being pulled in the cells above those. There was smaller changes in surrounding cells as well. Plus a weird pull in 20kpa cell @3500rpm of 3.5* on the rear and 2.3* on the front.
I wouldn't worry too much about whats happening in the 20 kPa column. It's decel and a no load area, for the most part. You can yank a bunch of timing out there and not feel it.
I am not sure what all that means. I am not sure I should run that map at all. Like I said, I never heard any pinging, but I don't hear well anyway.
What do you think? Try it, don't try it, mod it in the one lone cell that has a weird change to it? I just don't know where to go from here.
Have you been running an AT or 2 AFTER the timing changes? Timing will affect the VE's somewhat so it's always good to do a quick AT run after making timing changes. I wouldn't do a complete run but I would hit all the areas surrounding the timing changes, both up and down and left and right.
What timing numbers are you showing in the areas where the log shows events?
Thanks.
Assuming I'm happy with the map at this point, should I then remove the 2* of timing I added in addition to the timing LT already removed...or just remove the 2* from the cells that had no knock events?
Next question, since I had very few knock events, and only on the rear, do you recommend, bumping up the timing an additional 2* (total of 4*) and repeat the process?
Thanks again for all your help.
I probably didn't explain it correctly, but it works in my mind.
The thing we all need to remember is none of these numbers are absolutes and won't always show us perfection. The computer can only handle so much data at a given time and it isn't always going to be spot on real-time. So an occassional high or low CLI isn't anything to worry about. The best way to look at CLI's is at a steady state ride. Ride through some different situations but hold a steady throttle for a mile or so. It's easy to spot in the logs because the RPM and map will be pretty consistent. there shouldn't be any AE or DE toying with the mixture so it's a pretty good gauge of how well the VE's are holding true. If the CLI's are staying pretty consistent I'm good with it. On the other hand, if at a steady state the CLI's are consistently outside of that 5% zone I'd be looking at doing a couple more AT runs.
It's definitely more complicated than this but I try to keep it simple.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Have noticed here that _peak_ VE (highest 3 - 5 cells) tends to be 5 - 8% lower at < 40F than it is above 80%,
and that (centered on around 65F) the pattern stays the same, but the main hump tend to shift a cell or 2 up/left on the cold side and down/right on the hot side.
So I'd have to agree with you. I remember riding carbed bikes in 20 or 30 degree weather and they never warmed up. We'd have to run the enrichener pulled out just a tad to keep them running right. Eventually we got smart and ran a different jet in the winter.
The density of cold air is heavier than hot air so I'm sure in a wide temp spread like you're talking about there's a difference. Read around the forums long enough and you'll hear folks asking why their bikes run like crap in cold weather.
Read through those and did as you suggested. I've got around 12 boxes that are over 3.0% delta on the front cylinder and 15 on the rear cylinder.
Most are over 15% throttle position. Does this mean, as I continue to run auto tunes, I should try and run with the throttle open more than 15%?
And if so, any tips on how to get off a speeding ticket when I get pulled over?..lol
You don't need to be speeding to get 80% of the cells filled. I know you're making your tuning runs on a closed course but keep your eyes open for







