Easier to just use "compare as percent". Less thinking involved.

 

Only necessary if you want a good tune. If you'll be happy with a halfazzed tune then don't worry about those "uncalibrated" cells.

If those 12 or 15 cells are within your normal riding area you need to get them calibrated. otherwise why even waste your time, just take it to a dyno tuner. If you're having trouble filling in the cells start by focusing on a smaller area. Take some blue painters tape and cover everything below 3000 RPM's and everything to the right of 25% TP. Go out and practice filling in that area the best you can. After a while you'll get the hang of hitting the cells.

The only time I wouldn't worry about those "uncalibrated" cells is if they are way outside of your typical riding style. Meaning they're way out to the right, or they're in the higher RPM's you don't ride in. If any of those 12 or 15 cells are inside cells and you didn't collect enough data you need to AT until you hit them.

You should be hitting 15% throttle at 1000 RPM's, which covers 1000 to 1250 RPM's. It can be tough at first but with practice it can be done. Then your line should go to the right and down from there. Meaning the higher the RPM the further out to the right you need to be filling in squares. With a TP based cal there will be cells in the upper right corner and lower left corner that you probably won't hit. That's okay. You'll never ride in those cells anyway. Everything within those corners needs to be filled in, to include 500 RPM's BEYOND where you normally ride, at a minimum.

 

I posted this question a few pages back. I'm just trying to get some understanding when to stop tuning.

I installed a set of Woods TW-222's last week and received a map for my setup form Fuelmoto. I had my previous tune (before cams) dialed in to well below 5% changes from tune to tune.

I have completed 6 autotune runs with the cams and I have gotten the changes down to -0% average and 9% max change. The bike is running good with no decel popping.

Thanks

 

Where is the 9% change happening? Chances are, after 6 AT runs it's a cell or two you rarely hit. If so, just smooth it in with the surrounding cells and press on. Pick a number that flows nicely up and down, and left to right and call it a day.

 

Ok, i'll give that a try. I was gonna post up a pic of the compare between my last two maps but I can't for the life of me figure out how to save the table images?

 

I have not been doing a new AT after my timing changes Jim. I thought using log tuner was correcting VE's with whatever timing changes it was making. The LT VE numbers are still less than 5% even with the timing change so I thought they were good.

So I need to re-run AT after I make a timing change using LT?

Timing numbers flow well reading left to right, but have a hiccup when reading up and down in the 70-80 kpa column. Here are the new timing maps after the LT worked on them. These were made from logs ran while out west and loaded in varying riding conditions. I am not sure if this map would be pertinent for where I live in Louisiana because of the big change in elevation, heat, humidity.

 

There is a way around a locked tune so you can get it into WinPV. It is not truely locked. i understand why your dyno tuner doesnt want to have anyone take his work and play with it but,,, yes you can unlock it.

 

So this is a reply to my own response to a note from Boston Chris as we discussed the need to go wide-band, or not.

I've got a very basic "Stage 1" bike. Air Cleaner/Powervision/Slip-on pipes. The bike has stock cams, and stock everything else. The goal for my bike is to give it the right amount of fuel to do 2 things;

1. Give it the best performance across the power curve to support general riding and day-trip touring. (no racing)
2. Give it the right amount of fuel to help with a cooler running engine.

I've polled FuelMoto and techs from Dynojet that I met up at laconia bike week, as well as a few respected members of our group here at HDforums.

The total consensus across everyone, was that the WB kit was not going to provide any big benefit for my basic Stage 1 bike. This would be different if you go to cams and other engine upgrades where you are significantly changing the timing and internals of the engine. But, your basic Stage 1 daily rider, not going to help.

I just wanted to close out this piece of the discussion I had with various folks. Basic message was get the VEs correct with AutoTune and enjoy the ride. The Dynojet team did agree that bringing the AF Ratio (on my 07 EGC bike) down to 14.2 would be a good move for both performance and some cooling. They also built me a 13.9 open loop version and said they were both going to give me a strong performance.

I've tried both and can't really see much difference between either of them. I have been monitoring engine temperature with both my <cEwan oil temp guage as well as the PV engine temp and am getting these results which everyone agrees I should be pleased with.

On nice cool New England days of about 75-80'F I get about 200'F average on the oil temp guage while cruising and about 225'F on the engine temp guage. The ET may increase to 250'F during stop and go traffic.

On hot New England days with 90'F air temps, I am getting about 215'F oil temp and up to 260'F ET while riding along. The bike still feels fine.

So, that's my report out. I can share the tables that we're built if anyone wants them, but remember I have an 07 bike that works on the AFR and Closed Loop Bias table, not the KPA of the TBW bikes.

 

You won't feel much with either AFR's. Persoanlly, I'd rather run it a little richer like they set you up. If you can live with the MPG's you get at 13.9 I'd much rather run it there than at 14.6. 14.6 is for the tree-huggers and the EPA.

 

Please post both of the AFR tables. I'm curious to see each of their ideas on an open loop table.