Power Vision Information Thread
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 225
Likes: 6
It needs to be plugged into the ECM on the bike, but it does not need to be mounted on the handlebars.
Also, the AT-Basic (and Pro) tune, is saved to the PV after the tuning session is completed, and then, at the users decision it can be flashed to the ECM.
It doesn't do the tune in real time as your riding, although it does build the tune at that time.
Also, the AT-Basic (and Pro) tune, is saved to the PV after the tuning session is completed, and then, at the users decision it can be flashed to the ECM.
It doesn't do the tune in real time as your riding, although it does build the tune at that time.
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 580
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Are you saying that as we are building one tune after another, as in one autotune saved and loaded for the next autotune to get the VE delta down to a minimum, the bike will run better on each new tune saved? I hope you can understand that last sentence....I don't think these saved tunes make any changes to the spark or fuel tables. But that is the next step that I am trying to find out more about.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,928
Likes: 117
From: Ashby, Ma
Are you saying that as we are building one tune after another, as in one autotune saved and loaded for the next autotune to get the VE delta down to a minimum, the bike will run better on each new tune saved? I hope you can understand that last sentence....I don't think these saved tunes make any changes to the spark or fuel tables. But that is the next step that I am trying to find out more about.
I believe that the AT-Basic tunes make changes to the VEs, but I do not know if it is sophisticated enough to change spark tables, and my understanding is that the fuel is held constant while VEs are adjusted.
But again, I'm a newbie.. so I'll defer to those more knowledgeable.
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: South Australia
I ran 2 more autotune sessions today and focused on getting hits in the upper right (low rpm and high MAP) and bottom left (high rpm and low MAP). Each session was well over an hour. I used freeway, back roads and an empty shoping centre carpark. Note the number of hits in the upper right.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95566272@N06/8837286097/http://www.flickr.com/photos/95566272@N06/8837286097/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/95566272@N06/, on Flickr
I'm really happy with the outcome. I can now accelerate from really low RPM. In fact, I can go full throttle at 1200 rpm and not get any spluttering, knocking, stalling, popping or backfiring!!! There isn't a lot of power in that zone, but the bike does accelerate. I can also take off without using any throttle until the clutch is fully released. A few little hints for others wanting to try this:
- use the WinPV software to lower your Idle rpm to 900. Below 900 you risk loss of oil pressure. It makes it easier to get hits along the top of the chart. Change the idle back to 1000 after tuning runs.
- be ready to change your spark advance after tuning runs. Autotune takes 4 degrees of spark advance off for the autotune process. When you finish autotune and reflash the new tune to the ECM you may need to run a log file to pick any pinging, then you can adjust the spark advance tables.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/95566272@N06/8837286097/http://www.flickr.com/photos/95566272@N06/8837286097/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/95566272@N06/, on Flickr
I'm really happy with the outcome. I can now accelerate from really low RPM. In fact, I can go full throttle at 1200 rpm and not get any spluttering, knocking, stalling, popping or backfiring!!! There isn't a lot of power in that zone, but the bike does accelerate. I can also take off without using any throttle until the clutch is fully released. A few little hints for others wanting to try this:
- use the WinPV software to lower your Idle rpm to 900. Below 900 you risk loss of oil pressure. It makes it easier to get hits along the top of the chart. Change the idle back to 1000 after tuning runs.
- be ready to change your spark advance after tuning runs. Autotune takes 4 degrees of spark advance off for the autotune process. When you finish autotune and reflash the new tune to the ECM you may need to run a log file to pick any pinging, then you can adjust the spark advance tables.
Last edited by Darke_peak; May 26, 2013 at 05:29 AM. Reason: Wrong description
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Massachusetts
I ran 2 more autotune sessions today and focused on getting hits in the upper right (low rpm and high MAP) and bottom left (high rpm and low MAP). Each session was well over an hour. I used freeway, back roads and an empty shoping centre carpark. Note the number of hits in the upper right.
Autotune by Darke Peak, on Flickr
I'm really happy with the outcome. I can now accelerate from really low RPM. In fact, I can go full throttle at 1200 rpm and not get any spluttering, knocking, stalling, popping or backfiring!!! There isn't a lot of power in that zone, but the bike does accelerate. I can also take off without using any throttle until the clutch is fully released. A few little hints for others wanting to try this:
- use the WinPV software to lower your Idle rpm to 900. Below 900 you risk loss of oil pressure. It makes it easier to get hits along the top of the chart. Change the idle back to 1000 after tuning runs.
- be ready to change your spark advance after tuning runs. Autotune takes 4 degrees of spark advance off for the autotune process. When you finish autotune and reflash the new tune to the ECM you may need to run a log file to pick any pinging, then you can adjust the spark advance tables.
Autotune by Darke Peak, on Flickr
I'm really happy with the outcome. I can now accelerate from really low RPM. In fact, I can go full throttle at 1200 rpm and not get any spluttering, knocking, stalling, popping or backfiring!!! There isn't a lot of power in that zone, but the bike does accelerate. I can also take off without using any throttle until the clutch is fully released. A few little hints for others wanting to try this:
- use the WinPV software to lower your Idle rpm to 900. Below 900 you risk loss of oil pressure. It makes it easier to get hits along the top of the chart. Change the idle back to 1000 after tuning runs.
- be ready to change your spark advance after tuning runs. Autotune takes 4 degrees of spark advance off for the autotune process. When you finish autotune and reflash the new tune to the ECM you may need to run a log file to pick any pinging, then you can adjust the spark advance tables.
final result was great though. i ended up doin 5 AT runs before i was happy. All but a few cells had less than 4%.
I didnt have to adjust my timing at all yet. i even had kuelmoto look over my tune and my logs. i was leary because i had no knock events. I thought no way this is right. Some setting must be off. But all turned out great for me. Now this is not to say i wont get some knock events when the temp gets warmer. Here in Boston we have not been above 75 yet. When the temp hits the upper 80,s some knocj events may pop up.
great job there you are in the zone.
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Massachusetts
Yes it is.....you have to put in some time to do that for sure...There is a down side also.
i did the same thing and i now have a portion of my right muffler ( the bottle neck section that slips onto the headpipe ) That is yellow. I have to get some blue gone now to see if i can get rid of it.
because the A/F mixture is set to 14.6 across the board...you generate a little heat trying to hit the upper ranges. but i can live with a yellow spot on my slip on for a good running bike.
i did the same thing and i now have a portion of my right muffler ( the bottle neck section that slips onto the headpipe ) That is yellow. I have to get some blue gone now to see if i can get rid of it.
because the A/F mixture is set to 14.6 across the board...you generate a little heat trying to hit the upper ranges. but i can live with a yellow spot on my slip on for a good running bike.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,928
Likes: 117
From: Ashby, Ma
Forget the Blue gone..and all that other stuff it's a waste of time.
For sure certain stuff needs to get fixed but that ain't of 'em.
When bikes do run hot they do get nasty colors, but it doesn't sound like you have that problem. I like my McEwan oil temp guage so I can monitor the oil temp in the pan, which for me has been running about 200'F once up to temp, and am looking forward to seeing the head temp with the PV. What temps do you get in the heads? Have you been looking at that at all?
One of my key goals is to bring the temps down so that in the heat of summer I'm running <215'F (preferably less) while riding VT and NH on a 95'F day.
A cool running engine is just such a better running engine, even though H-D says 235'F is "normal".