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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
I use Oracle Virtual Box which is free. Then load the Win10 ISO which is downloadable, just nags you to register with a note on the desktop but easy to ignore.
Hello all..
I have been chasing a few issues and I cant seem to dial it in.
1. When I come to a stop and pull in the clutch, the idle goes really low for a few seconds. If I dont touch anything, it will slowly come back up to where its supposed to be, until I blip the throttle. Blip the throttle, and it'll blip and then go real low again, like the idle is set too low. But its not. In my mind, it sounds like its loading up. Ideas?
2. Throttle response, sometimes isnt as crisp as when I first start the engine. Obviously the warmup stage is running, which leads me to think, I am lean in my idle area, and thats why the response is bad or less than desired, after warmup? Again...Ideas?
3. The other issue I think is just dirty throttle plate and throttle body innards, but when I start to add throttle from 0%, at any speed or gear, right at 1% I get a very pronounced stutter. At 2% and above, its totally smooth. Roll off the throttle back to 0% and start to gently add throttle again, and right at 1% the stutter returns. This is consistent and if I take it easy and get the throttle to stay at that 1% TP, it will stutter the entire time. I dont see anything in the logs or MLV that jumps out at me.. so.. other than throttle plate filth, ideas?
I am attaching two small logs. Both are from different tunes, which I am attaching as well.
Hello all..
I have been chasing a few issues and I cant seem to dial it in.
1. When I come to a stop and pull in the clutch, the idle goes really low for a few seconds. If I dont touch anything, it will slowly come back up to where its supposed to be, until I blip the throttle. Blip the throttle, and it'll blip and then go real low again, like the idle is set too low. But its not. In my mind, it sounds like its loading up. Ideas?
2. Throttle response, sometimes isnt as crisp as when I first start the engine. Obviously the warmup stage is running, which leads me to think, I am lean in my idle area, and thats why the response is bad or less than desired, after warmup? Again...Ideas?
3. The other issue I think is just dirty throttle plate and throttle body innards, but when I start to add throttle from 0%, at any speed or gear, right at 1% I get a very pronounced stutter. At 2% and above, its totally smooth. Roll off the throttle back to 0% and start to gently add throttle again, and right at 1% the stutter returns. This is consistent and if I take it easy and get the throttle to stay at that 1% TP, it will stutter the entire time. I dont see anything in the logs or MLV that jumps out at me.. so.. other than throttle plate filth, ideas?
I am attaching two small logs. Both are from different tunes, which I am attaching as well.
I look forward to your ideas...
Thanks!
Glen
Sounds like you are to rich in decel or you have a bad VSS. What year is your bike?
Does anyone know how much of the AFR table is set up in closed loop when PV sets up for a tuning run? Manually I can change the entire table to .981.
Does the program do the same or only a certain section of the table?
Will it actually make changes all the way out to 100 map?
I was originally only going as far as 70 kpa in the AFR table in closed loop. But once I saw I could set the ENTIRE table to closed loop I started wondering if I should do that before auto tune rides. And then set it open loop from 80 kpa and up after the final tuning run.
Last edited by Jimmy55TX; Aug 1, 2017 at 06:35 PM.
Myself and a few friends use the gauge mode on the powervision full time on our bikes. We have done this for over three years. 2 of us have had to replace our displays in the last 3 months. Now when we use the gauge display that has 6 different readings showing it powervision will go blank inside the boxes where readings would be. Dynojet is aware of the problem and sent us new power cables that are shielded. They think the cable is getting RF interference. I know it didn't for three years and why would it do it now? I just changed it to a four gauges reading to see if this makes a difference.
Completed the install of the Target Tune upgrade today. While the original Power Vision install went completely smoothly, the Target Tune install - well, not so much. Initially, the problem was a stuck cap on one of the 18mm bungs on my D&D Fat Cat pipe. After resolving that issue, with the help of an induction heater, I moved on to the TT install. It seemed to go smoothly and is a nice clean install. Unfortunately, after flashing the new TT tune the engine trouble light is now activated. I called Fuel Moto but just as the technician finally picked up, the call dropped. I called back but by then it was after 5pm. So I'm anxiously awaiting tomorrow to call back and hopefully get this resolved. Here are my DTCs:
Last edited by UrbanRunner; Aug 2, 2017 at 11:59 PM.
Just got off the phone with Jaime over at Fuel Moto. It was a quick fix. We went to the Configuration tab under Quick Tune and found that Heated O2 was checked. The check was removed to solve the problem.
No more DTCs!!
Last edited by UrbanRunner; Aug 3, 2017 at 09:15 PM.
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