Power Vision Information Thread
Here are some suggestions I am sending tonight. Any comments by anyone are welcome:
1. The Lambda gauges make very rapid changes that make them hard to read, and it would be useful to have a sampling-rate adjustment. E.g., seeing the values change several times per second or other user-defined rate would be more useful than 50x/sec., or whatever we have now.
2. One suggestion from the forum is to create some practical method to keep track of knock-retard on a PV gauge. As it sits now this gauge isnt very usable because knock events are (hopefully) rare and you cant monitor this parameter while riding in any practical way. Perhaps it might show the last value >0.
3. How important is turning off DE and AE when tuning? How do you do it, zero-out all the values in the tables?
4. It would be very useful to have an option in WinPV called Prepare for tuning, which would do the following:
6. A gauge panel selection option in the PV. We now have perhaps 15 gauge panels to use, some of which are not readable in daylight (all analog gauges). I use several digital gauges only, and it would be nice if I could scroll through only those I want to see by means of a selection screen. Those selected are shown, those not selected will be omitted from the scroll view.
1. The Lambda gauges make very rapid changes that make them hard to read, and it would be useful to have a sampling-rate adjustment. E.g., seeing the values change several times per second or other user-defined rate would be more useful than 50x/sec., or whatever we have now.
2. One suggestion from the forum is to create some practical method to keep track of knock-retard on a PV gauge. As it sits now this gauge isnt very usable because knock events are (hopefully) rare and you cant monitor this parameter while riding in any practical way. Perhaps it might show the last value >0.
3. How important is turning off DE and AE when tuning? How do you do it, zero-out all the values in the tables?
4. It would be very useful to have an option in WinPV called Prepare for tuning, which would do the following:
- Automatically set the tables in the tune file that need to be disabled or otherwise changed. E.g., DE, AE, CL, etc.
- Save the tune values needed (VE 1 & 2, AFR Set, Spark 1 & 2) to a user-specified PVV file.
6. A gauge panel selection option in the PV. We now have perhaps 15 gauge panels to use, some of which are not readable in daylight (all analog gauges). I use several digital gauges only, and it would be nice if I could scroll through only those I want to see by means of a selection screen. Those selected are shown, those not selected will be omitted from the scroll view.
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You could use the Closed-Loop Bias tables for that, but we should let Jamie, Dennis, or Hal lead that discussion, as I haven't worked with it at all and am running the AT-100 Pro at this time. I'm not sure how those tables work with PV Tune, but what little I know about the stock sensors I understand you're not locked into 14.6 and can adjust down to as low as ~14.2.
Front Cyl Cruise range
How much retard are you talking about? It really shouldn't make any difference at all in seat-of-the-pants performance, as if you are registering a knock event the ECM is retarding that amount up to the maximum specified. If PV Tune adjusts for this knock event it won't be pulling back timing as much as the knock event itself, or at least that's my experience with this '07.
The problem I'm having is that in my case I see a knock event on the rear cylinder for every log, always around 60-70 KPA @ ~2000-2400 rpm, and it adjusts slightly every time. So far I'm not seeing much difference and continue to allow it to adjust, but am monitoring the situation. If it looks like it's going too far or doesn't eventually stop making adjustments I'll stop the process by unchecking the Spark Knock function before I load it into the tune. So far in quite a few PV Tune procedures I see mostly <1° of retard in only a few areas. I had manually bumped spark advance in the cruise range long ago, so I'm still no lower than stock levels.
I would be surprised if Basic and Pro are different, and my experience with Pro is that it makes very small changes for any given PV Tune procedure.
I would be surprised if Basic and Pro are different, and my experience with Pro is that it makes very small changes for any given PV Tune procedure.
Last edited by Heatwave; Jul 10, 2011 at 07:39 AM.
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I tried doing that for a while, but it wasn't practical for me. From my experience the event lasts only a short time, was intermittent, and you'd almost have to be looking at the display all the time to see them happen. Seeing them in the log file is the best way to check, IMO.
Last edited by Heatwave; Jul 10, 2011 at 07:51 AM.
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I keep 2 sets of the exact same guages . the first set is for daytime with a white background and black letters. This seems to be the best combination for daytime visbility. While this setup can still get washed out in very bright light, if you tilt the screen downwards it will improve the visibility.
For nighttime I keep a second set of the same guages (4-pk) ith an orange background and black letters. Works perfect for maintaining your night vision with a highly visible screen.
The arrows on the bottom of the screen make it very simple to transition between night and day guages.
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Extreme HDF Member
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
I found a good way to handle the gauges for night riding. Usually the light-on-black panel is followed by (or precedes) the black-on-light when scrolling through the various gauge panels. I use black-on-white for daylight and dark-orange-on-black for night. That way you can just click left or right to get a day or night gauge panel. Another idea might be to have a screen-dimming function of some sort. You can't do it like a GPS based on time of day, since the PV doesn't keep time, but maybe a software button on the screen. Or, make use of that red hardware button for that.
Last edited by iclick; Jul 10, 2011 at 12:06 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Upstate SC
I sure think that it would be nice to be able to use the PV unit itself while it is attached/being powered by my desktop/laoptop rather than just when the PV is being powered by the bike. For example, I would like to be able to set-up my guages, info to datalog, etc. using the PC to power the PV (in PC link mode). I really dislike sitting in my 100 degree+ garage with my bike ignition, lights, etc. on wasting my battery's charge while playing with the PV. I can understand why you can't access/flash the ECM without the bike powered-up, but I don't understand why we can't use the PV unit itself with the PC as a power source. Just a suggestion. Thanks.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,549
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From: Upstate SC
4. It would be very useful to have an option in WinPV called Prepare for tuning, which would do the following:
- Automatically set the tables in the tune file that need to be disabled or otherwise changed. E.g., DE, AE, CL, etc.
- Save the tune values needed (VE 1 & 2, AFR Set, Spark 1 & 2) to a user-specified PVV file.
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Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Eaton, OH
I recently received my Power Vision and mounted it on the bike this weekend.
I've been playing with the gauges and noticed that the measurement IAT, which I think is intake air temperature, runs higher than I thought. I have the factory football cover and the Screaming Eagle back plate on my bike.
I went on a relatively short ride after mounting the unit on my bike over the weekend. The IAT ran from about 120°F or so when going down the road to 140° or so after stopped at a light for a few minutes.
This seems rather high to me. I've always heard that lowering IAT would help overall performance of an engine which is why there are a lot of cold air intake kits for cars.
Does IAT stand for intake air temperature? If so, are the results I observed normal for an Ultra with lowers? I'm wondering if replacing the football cover with something else such as HD 28728-10 http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US would lower the air temperature and potentially help overall performance?
Anyone have any thoughts on this subject?
Thanks!
I've been playing with the gauges and noticed that the measurement IAT, which I think is intake air temperature, runs higher than I thought. I have the factory football cover and the Screaming Eagle back plate on my bike.
I went on a relatively short ride after mounting the unit on my bike over the weekend. The IAT ran from about 120°F or so when going down the road to 140° or so after stopped at a light for a few minutes.
This seems rather high to me. I've always heard that lowering IAT would help overall performance of an engine which is why there are a lot of cold air intake kits for cars.
Does IAT stand for intake air temperature? If so, are the results I observed normal for an Ultra with lowers? I'm wondering if replacing the football cover with something else such as HD 28728-10 http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US would lower the air temperature and potentially help overall performance?
Anyone have any thoughts on this subject?
Thanks!
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Extreme HDF Member
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Posts: 11,615
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
DynoJet is actually working on a screen that does exactly this. It sets all the values as they should be for logging and pulls up a screen that monitors and marks the cells you have hit while riding. All you do is start the log and ride. I tested it several times and sent them suggestions. Works really well. We should probably see it in one of the releases soon.