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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
Also in case you miss this small part on the first page of the PDF
TSM/HFSM: When an over current or short-to-ground
condition is detected, it turns off the turn lamp outputs.
Which means a pinched wire grounded out will cause the signals to stop working.
They wont work again till the problem is fixed which is why I suggest unplugging the front signals from the system to take them out of the equation for now.
If you have your fairing on your going to have to take it off and they unplug very easy.
Then unplug the left side controls and try and then unplug the right.........the bike won't run with the right unplugged but if you cycle the power and have a security system the blinkers will flash if the system is ok and you might be able to hone in on the problem area quickly.
Also in case you miss this small part on the first page of the PDF
TSM/HFSM: When an over current or short-to-ground
condition is detected, it turns off the turn lamp outputs.
Which means a pinched wire grounded out will cause the signals to stop working.
They wont work again till the problem is fixed which is why I suggest unplugging the front signals from the system to take them out of the equation for now.
If you have your fairing on your going to have to take it off and they unplug very easy.
Then unplug the left side controls and try and then unplug the right.........the bike won't run with the right unplugged but if you cycle the power and have a security system the blinkers will flash if the system is ok and you might be able to hone in on the problem area quickly.
Neither of the front blinkers have been plugged in for quite some time. I've had them taken off since the problem started. Unhooked the rear last night.
Nothing changed from unhooking all 4 and turning to ignition.
So I went into flowchart mode. Started on chart 1 of 4.
1. No. Lamps are not on continuously
2. No. No lamps illuminate
3. Yes. TSM connector is solid
4. Yes. Reading of 12+ between terminal 1 and 12
5. No. Can't get a reading between 2&12
6. Yes. So I got to the point of "locate and repair open on(GY) etc....is this telling me I have a ground in the bars?
Fairly certain I did all correct. Most questionable is the "check for voltage at ignition fuse".... to do this I put one lead from the multimeter in the fuse holes and was getting readings of .158, .141, etc.
To check for voltage at ignition fuse the black lead goes to the negative terminal on the battery and then check both sides of the clips that hold the fuse in with the red wire.
You should get 12+ volts if you don't then that is a no.
It's good. I also undid the controls to take a little peak. I couldn't see much as the wires were holding it in, but I did notice some rust colored powder-like material on each. Could this be some result of a fried wire? Or could it be the conduit lube (which was clear) breaking down or something.
Sounds to me the wires not only shorted but maybe caught on fire in the tube. It may have burned them so much that that is the from all the heat and smoke cooking off the conduit lube. I would not leave anything to chance, so I would go ahead and pull the wire back out to make sure.
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