Lights don't work, start button doesn't work.
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 704
Likes: 23
From: on the mud flats on the edge of slum city
Orange/white wire goes to lots of places on the bike and should measure around 12.x volts everywhere.
Rear brake light switch
Rear taillight
Front fender tip light
right hand controls
left hand controls
speedo
tacho
dash panel switches
You are going to have to check that wire everywhere and everything you have touched to find the problem
Rear brake light switch
Rear taillight
Front fender tip light
right hand controls
left hand controls
speedo
tacho
dash panel switches
You are going to have to check that wire everywhere and everything you have touched to find the problem
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,335
Likes: 27
From: San Diego, CA
On that 30.5 are you talking 30.5 mili volts? Because I am trying to figure out how a system that only has a 12 volt battery, on a bike that just has the ignition switch turned on and nothing running, can produce over 12 volt anywhere in the system. (i.e. like you say 30.5 volts?).
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,032
Likes: 9
From: Queen Creek, AZ
Ok, I'll check all those spots tonight when I get home.
Regarding the 30.5 volts....I was thinking the same thing about how that can't be possible so after reading your post, I checked it this morning again before I left for work. And sure enough, in the right hand side of the multimeter screen it lights up "MV" on the 30.5 right side and just V on the 12.05 left side.
I never even knew there were millivolts.
Does that change anything....its probably still the problem area...right?
Before i do anything...should I clear the codes that I checked earlier? Any advantage/disadvantage?
Let's hope I find something tonight!!!!
sv
Regarding the 30.5 volts....I was thinking the same thing about how that can't be possible so after reading your post, I checked it this morning again before I left for work. And sure enough, in the right hand side of the multimeter screen it lights up "MV" on the 30.5 right side and just V on the 12.05 left side.
I never even knew there were millivolts.
Does that change anything....its probably still the problem area...right?
Before i do anything...should I clear the codes that I checked earlier? Any advantage/disadvantage?
Let's hope I find something tonight!!!!
sv
Last edited by Rock Chalk; Mar 8, 2012 at 09:02 AM.
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 704
Likes: 23
From: on the mud flats on the edge of slum city
I knew it was MV and not V......only thing it could be LOL
Asked for some help on this on another forum and was suggested that the 30.5 mv is just induced due to the type of multimeter and that in fact the wire has no voltage.
You might need to follow that wire back to the next connector and test there as well.
Make sure you use a good ground when testing.
Asked for some help on this on another forum and was suggested that the 30.5 mv is just induced due to the type of multimeter and that in fact the wire has no voltage.
You might need to follow that wire back to the next connector and test there as well.
Make sure you use a good ground when testing.
Last edited by scotty3; Mar 8, 2012 at 03:34 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 704
Likes: 23
From: on the mud flats on the edge of slum city
Do the brake lights and horn work ?
Did all the Molex connectors go back together easy ? You did not have to force them in even slightly ?
You are 100% certain that all the wire colors match from the male to female connectors?
Some wires look very similar and a bright light shows they are different.
Did all the Molex connectors go back together easy ? You did not have to force them in even slightly ?
You are 100% certain that all the wire colors match from the male to female connectors?
Some wires look very similar and a bright light shows they are different.
Last edited by scotty3; Mar 8, 2012 at 04:12 PM.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,032
Likes: 9
From: Queen Creek, AZ
Do the brake lights and horn work ?
Did all the Molex connectors go back together easy ? You did not have to force them in even slightly ?
You are 100% certain that all the wire colors match from the male to female connectors?
Some wires look very similar and a bright light shows they are different.
Did all the Molex connectors go back together easy ? You did not have to force them in even slightly ?
You are 100% certain that all the wire colors match from the male to female connectors?
Some wires look very similar and a bright light shows they are different.
- Yes brake lights and horn works.
- Molex connector went back together really easy, i just popped that white housing off, tested for voltage and slide it right back on.
- yes 100% sure but will look again.
I'll try to track that bundle of wires back....do you know where the next connector would be? I guess I can look at my manual and see if i can find anything there.
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 704
Likes: 23
From: on the mud flats on the edge of slum city
Now I need to ask this question.........The front brake switch that makes the brake light work gets it power from the orange/white wire that your now testing and shows no power.
So how is it possible that the brake light is working from the front lever?
So how is it possible that the brake light is working from the front lever?
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,032
Likes: 9
From: Queen Creek, AZ
Went out to make sure that was still the case....yes. No blinkers, but i can get the brake light to work. Now, FWIW, the brake lever isn't on the bike as I have the handles off right now, but when I turn on ignition the brake light come come on right away...I can push the little release button on the switches to imitate the brake being depressed. Bottom line the brake lights work with the front lever.
Also, just reset all the codes to see if they'd come back. Yep...b1121, b1122
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Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,032
Likes: 9
From: Queen Creek, AZ
so along those lines i did verify that i've got all of the colors lined up and matching.
so, what we know...there is power coming to the point where it connects to the controls, but no blinking.
sorry for f'n that up.
steve
Edit - tested the blue wire ine each connector that goes out to each blinker. They both have 11.95 V on them.
Last edited by Rock Chalk; Mar 8, 2012 at 08:33 PM.